Bicycle Geography...

New Job, New Blog

2009-07-19T21:22:00.003-06:00

It's time...

Please visit our new website - Live, Learn, Ride. We're just getting started and soon enough it should be chock full of info and blogs.

Don't worry - we'll definitely keep this site up. In the future we hope to take the info this blog and get it organized into a resource for our 'round the world adventure.

Hey! Guess What?

2009-07-16T18:51:00.004-06:00

Happy Thursday,

As some of you may or may not know - we haven't been on the Colorado Trail for the past couple of weeks. Nothing bad happened, we just had a major change of plans. To make a long story short - we got a job, and a pretty cool one at that. We are the new Subaru/IMBA Trail Care Crew. Think of it as the new iteration of the Bicycle Geography adventure. This time we have a car, prearranged locations, and, we get paid...

Stay tuned for more info about our upcoming adventures and a new blog site. Oh, don't forget to brush off that US atlas. We're definitely getting back the geography stuff.

Hope all is well with you,

LK and CK

New Website for Leslie

2009-06-29T08:46:00.006-06:00

Happy Monday,

I have a new and improved website for my business pursuits. I've combined Bluebird Mapping and GIS with Wide Eyed World Photography.

If you have a moment, take some time and look around. http://www.lesliekehmeier.com/

Thanks!

LK

The Colorado Trail Schedule

2009-06-25T12:58:00.002-06:00

We've decided on 17 days to ride the Colorado Trail. We're definitely making it a challenge, but we're a bit crunched for time. Luckily, all of the sightseeing will occur on the bike. Here is how we hope it lays out.

Start on July 5th and arrive in Durango on July 21
Day 1 - Top of the World Campground
Day 2 - Kenosha Pass
Day 3 - Frisco
Day 4 - Rest Day
Day 5 - Camp Hale
Day 6 - Leadville
Day 7 - Buena Vista
Day 8 - Rest Day
Day 9 - 12 Lake City
Day 13 - Rest Day
Day 14-17 Durango

The wildflowers should be awesome...

LK

The Cruiser Reborn

2009-06-22T07:14:00.002-06:00

Chris finished up my Fourth of July cruiser last week. I took it for a spin immediately. Other than an old tire with a flat spot (thump, thump, thump...) it's fun, fuN, FUN!

Happy Monday,
LK

What Happened to the Kehmeiers?

2009-06-13T07:35:00.004-06:00

We're still kickin' it and keepin' it real. Real, acutally, is a good word. We are transitioning our way back to the 'real' world.

As some of you know, Chris has been working hard to become a teacher. With a lot of hard work and dedication, he was offered (and accepted) a job near Glenwood Springs, Colorado. He'll be teaching science to high schoolers.

I've been busy with my freelance work. Lots of maps, words, and pictures. Last weekend I competed in the Teva Games as a photographer for the first time. It was awesome to be behind the lens! Here is my portfolio entry: http://www.flickr.com/photos/vailvalleyfoundation/sets/72157619515955527/show/

Finally, we are still set to ride the Colorado Trail. I finally got my bike back, with a new frame, and look forward to another bicycle adventure.

Hope you are all well and we hope to be picking up the blogging as we ride from Denver to Durango.

Peace,
LK

What Time Is It?

2009-05-19T11:35:00.003-06:00

It's game time.

Nuggets and Lakers start tonight. I'm so excited that I can hardly stand it!

Lakers are going down...

Chris 'the birdman' Andersen rules.

Nuggets in seven.

SpadOut

2009-05-15T07:04:00.005-06:00

SpadOut - Sports Adventures Outdoors.

What is it? It's a website that tracks prices, reviews, and popularity of outdoor gear. Basically, type in the gear and the website lists the prices for the various on-line retailers.

The SpadOut website also includes an on-line magazine and I'm pleased to say that I am one of the writers. I now have an outlet for my geeked-out analysis of gear!

Here's my article on the ins and outs of solar charging on the road:http://www.spadout.com/a/solar-powered-people/

If you have a little free time, or are in need of some gear, check out the site here.

Happy Friday,

World's Greatest

2009-05-13T06:58:00.002-06:00

In keeping up with events and happenings in Eagle County, I just ran across this post on the Vail Valley Foundation's blog. They are getting ready for the Teva Games and shared some awesome footage of one of my favorite trails - World's Greatest. Enjoy!

Here's to sweet singletrack!
LK

One

2009-05-11T06:39:00.003-06:00

1+1=50

Huh?

In preparation for the Colorado Trail, Chris and I participated in an endurance race over the weekend. Just to make it challenging, we rode our singlespeeds instead of geared bikes. More of just an event for us, the 'race' was staged at Bear Creek Lake Park, our current home track.

When we arrived at registration on Saturday morning, I was surprised to receive a number plate marked '1'. I believe this honor is normally reserved for the winner of last year's race and I felt like I should have been wearing yellow instead of bright blue. Anyhow, I displayed the number proudly. It certainly represented my entire experience; one speed, alone in my class, and eventually, the winner (just of my class, not the race). In the end I was toast, but thankful that I had finished. I can now mark number 14 of my life list: ride endurance race on singlespeed.

Happy Monday,

Colorado Hut Trip

2009-05-06T07:12:00.006-06:00

We had our first Colorado hut trip over the weekend. Lindley Hut was the destination - just a four mile snowshoe in from Ashcroft. Lindley is part of the Alfred Braun Memorial hut system - the first Colorado system oriented toward skiing. The structure was first built in the early 1950s and then later rebuilt after a fire.

A hut trip is an excellent way to get into the Colorado backcountry when there is still snow on the ground. You don't need much more than a sleeping bag and a good book. We definitely had more food than gear and spent Saturday afternoon playing lively games of Yahtzee! and eating tasty hors devours.

Here's to the beauty and grandeur of the Colorado mountains,

The Office

2009-05-04T15:53:00.002-06:00

Got a new chair for my waiting room...

Gives a whole new meaning to the term "doing business"...

Happy Monday,
LK

We heART Bikes

2009-04-24T07:00:00.004-06:00

I can't remember exactly how I found the We heART Bikes Fundraising Art Show, but the 'open to everyone' caught my eye. Anyway, I got a few images prepared and submitted them. I hope they help raise some money for the cause.

The Reno Bike Project, which puts on the event, is a non-profit that promotes the bicycle in many ways. They, like other bicycle co-ops, understand that bicycles are not a standard luxury for everyone. Check out their website here: http://blog.renobikeproject.com/

Colorado has a host of bicycle collectives. Organizations like this are great places for donating old bikes and parts that are still useable. We plan to pedal to the Fort Collins Bicycle Co-Op this weekend and see what they've got going.

Happy Friday,

2009-04-23T12:04:00.001-06:00

Welcome to phone updates. Should be useful for the Colorado Trail this summer. LK

Ginger Ninjas and The Pleasant Revolution

2009-04-22T17:59:00.003-06:00

As your resident earth loving, bicycle riding, thirty-something, I decided it would be appropriate to find something blog worthy for today (Earth Day). I pulled up my favorite search engine, Blackle, and typed in the words "reduce carbon footprint bicycles". About a quarter of the way down I noticed a link that caught my eye:

"Green Ninjas took their rock tour around Mexico by bicycle, greatly reducing the carbon footprint normally associated with rock concerts."

Obviously, I had to check the link out. I discovered that the Green Ninjas are actually the Ginger Ninjas and they toured from Northern California to Southern Mexico on bicycles. They even powered all of their equipment with our favorite human powered machine. Their tour is called The Pleasant Revolution.

You gotta check out the video above!

Here's to a low carbon footprint,

Remembrance

2009-04-20T07:30:00.003-06:00

The irony is so thick...

Today is my birthday. It is also the birthday of Adolf Hitler. And this year, today is also Yom HaShoah, Holocaust Remembrance Day. This Jewish holiday commemorates the 6 million Jews that died during the Holocaust and is different every year. It usually occurs somewhere between March and April.

As you may remember, Chris and I had the opportunity to visit Auschwitz when we first got to Europe. It was an experience that neither of us will ever forget.

My birthday wish is this: when you get a chance today, take a moment to feel peace and love toward your fellow humans.

Be well,

Back from Montana

2009-04-17T07:44:00.003-06:00

I had the chance to do a little road trip with Chris' family to Montana. On the drive up we stopped in Jackson and made a quick trip into Grand Teton National Park.

Life is Bicycle

2009-04-05T19:17:00.003-06:00

"Shouldn't it be - life is like a bicycle?" my 13 year-old nephew asked. And when I replied, "No, it's supposed to be artsy...", he just looked at me and said "oh...okay".

I discovered the world of self publishing and decided to do a small project before diving totally into the Bicycle Geography book. Today I finished and published a photo book called, Life is Bicycle.

The book is available through the Blurb website here:

Life is Bicycle

By Leslie Kehmeier

Book Preview

Enjoy!
LK

The New Project: Bike The Colorado Trail

2009-04-03T07:18:00.004-06:00

The wanderlust continues. We've could have gone either way after our global adventure; feel satisfied and go back to way the life was, or keep coming up with new ideas. And yep, you guessed it, we're working on the latter.

Our new project is an ultra-light tour of the Colorado Trail. Chris recently informed me that the gear list is very short and does not include a tent or sleeping bags. Hmmm.

The trail covers 530 miles with 60,000 feet of climbing. I guess it's time to start training camp. We're looking at a July start, so we should have time to get our legs and lungs in shape.

The Colorado Trail starts in Denver and ends in Durango. Elevation ranges from 5,500 feet to a high point of 13,334 feet. A good portion of the trail hovers above 10,000 feet. The trail was completed in 1987 and is a joint project between the Colorado Trail Foundation and USFS.

Stay Tuned...

LK

So You're Telling Me There's A Chance...

2009-03-27T07:21:00.003-06:00

photo - Chris commuting to the store in a previous snow storm

It's official - we do still live in Colorado. Yesterday the entire state finally got a good dose of that spring snow. I almost forgot what it's like.
Colorado is no stranger to white stuff in spring. Yesterday's storm was considered a blizzard. This winter storm condition can actually be defined and is not just something that the media invented to spice-up newscasts. The last March blizzard that struck was in 2003 and dumped over 30 inches.
A blizzard is defined as: a sever winter storm with low temperatures, strong winds, and heavy lowing snow. It is formed when a high pressure system clashes with low pressure. This causes advection: The transfer of a property of the atmosphere, such as heat, cold, or humidity, by the horizontal movement of an air mass (taken from the freedictionary.com). Blizzards occur in many different regions across the US and Canada. This type of weather also affects Russia and areas of northern Europe.
OK, so what does this have to do with bicycling and the picture above? Simple, we can put our studded tires back on - yeah!

Here's to moon-boots and snowcaves,
LK

Sharing is Caring

2009-03-25T07:45:00.004-06:00

Just a short one:

Chris passed his teacher certification exam. We can't call him Mr. K until he actually gets a job.

Leslie got her first article published in print. Check out There and Back magazine at your local REI.

Peace!
LK

Otago Anniversary

2009-03-23T08:09:00.003-06:00

I looked on the calendar this morning and noticed that today is Otago Anniversary. Otago is a region on the South Island of New Zealand where we spent a lot of time during our bicycle tour. One of our favorite adventures was the Otago Rail Trail. We figured that it was an area that not many travelers found their way through. For us, it was a very 'authentic' experience.

The map below is our route on the Otago Rail Trail. Each point on the map links to a blog for that day.

By the way - Otago Anniversary celebrates the day that Scottish explorers landed at Port Chalmers, the major port for the city of Dunedin.

View Larger Map

Have fun,
LK

Do What You Love, the Money Will Follow

2009-03-20T07:54:00.004-06:00

I haven't actually read the book (authored by Marsha Sinetar)- the title just rings in my head from time to time. Since we've returned home from our adventure, it rings a little louder.

Our new path is starting to come together. I've got a few projects going (maps and writing) and Chris is awaiting is test results for teacher certification. We're still learning how to be patient, but know that life takes time and we just need to see how it undfolds.

Last week Chris joined me on my singletrack business trip. I had to pinch myself a few times when I realized that I was actually working. The riding in Arizona was spectacular and I had my fair share of "geeked-out" moments. I'm really excited about this particular project because I get to combine two of my favorite things; bicycles and maps.

Here's to coloring our parachutes,

Monday, Monday

2009-03-16T08:33:00.002-06:00

We're back from the desert after making a one day push from Flagstaff, AZ. Stay tuned for the details about the singletrack business trip.

Laundry Day

2009-03-13T08:56:00.003-06:00

No road trip is complete without one.

Saguaro Wonderland

2009-03-11T19:54:00.002-06:00

March 11, 2009
22.3 miles
3:57:00
6.0 mph

Saguaro Wonderland – that’s what the bumper sticker for our local KOA campground reads. I think I would have to agree. For the last two days we have been riding amongst these large tree-like cacti. Luckily, both of us have managed to keep the rubber side down. There is not much room for mistake is this prickly landscape.
The saguaro (pronounced, “saw-wah-roh”) is native to the Sonoran Desert. This ecosystem is found in Arizona, small parts of California, and two states in Mexico. The tall, green, and spiny cactus have a lifespan of up to 150 years and can take half that time to develop their side arms. Saguaros bloom in April and May and, with the pollination from bats, bear fruit in June. Different varieties of birds make their homes in saguaros. Some do the actual excavating, others just move in later. Harming this cactus species is against the law, so think twice before you build a house in a saguaro forest.
We’ll be moving on tomorrow to the southern sections of the Black Canyon Trail. I can’t begin to describe how much I’ve enjoyed the trail thus far. You can’t imagine the commitment and dedication that it takes to design, build, and sustain a trail like this. My hat is off to everyone involved. If your interest is piqued, visit the Black Canyon Trail Coalition’s website. And if you’re ever down this way, stop and check it out.

Steering clear of the cactus so far,
LK

Black Canyon Trail

2009-03-10T21:12:00.004-06:00

03/10/09
26.4 miles
4:30 minutes

We arrived in AZ yesterday under cloudy skies, and winds trying to blow us off the road. The tent site we scored at the KOA in Rock Springs was out of the wind and close to the bathrooms. SCORE! Our camping location was perfect since it is located only 5 minutes from the trailhead for the Black Canyon Trail. The trail is relatively new and currently has only 20 miles of the projected 60 miles built. I think that they could stop at 20, give themselves a pat on the back and enjoy the fruits of their labor. The trail is a tight, twisty singletrack that only interrupts itself for the occasional crossing of the Agua Fria River. The river wasn’t too cold, but it did provide us with some wrinkled feet once our shoes finally came off. We rode a southern section of the trail as an out and back. And enjoyed every minute of it. We managed to burn through a gallon of water each with each of us taking our last sips as we arrived back at home base. I even had a rear flat that was a slow enough leaker I was able to make it back to the KOA and change it in the shade. The only mishap we had today was our lack of sunscreen and the resulting farmer burns on our arms. Tomorrow we go and ride a ten mile section of the northern route and will probably reach the end of the road for current trail construction. They tacked on a 1000 feet last Saturday, so we may have first tread on the new part. Doubtful, but we shall see.
Evidently there is a Café in town here famous for its pies. I will do my duty and give a full report on those at a later date.
CK

Road Trip!

2009-03-08T21:16:00.003-06:00

A Road Trip? It's all part of the job. Man, it's great to be back on the road. Stay tuned...

Back To Work

2009-03-07T07:40:00.003-07:00

Yes, it's true, I have gone back to work. My goal after returning home from our trip was to start my own GIS business. See this link for more info on Bluebird GIS.

As part of my research for one of my current projects, I've been tinkering with web maps. As many of you know, Google is one of the heavy hitters when it comes to simple maps on-line. To illustrate, I've created a very basic map with our stops in Croatia. Click on any of the little green bicycles (in addition to a couple of boats and a train) to link to our photos and/or blog that specific day. *Please note that the pop-ups of information are slightly larger than the map view.

Have Fun!

View Larger Map

A Tale of Two Bands

2009-03-03T07:27:00.004-07:00

We had a wonderful visit to Eagle County over the weekend. We stayed in Vail and found our schedule revolving around hiking and music.
Saturday was all about the North Trail and a Bluegrass band named Hardscrabble. The hiking was great - bluebird skies and 50 degrees. The band was even better. And I’m definitely more inspired to work on my goal to learn the banjo. I wonder if Banjovi gives lessons?

Sunday was a little more edgy. Picture sideways beanies and baggy pants mixed with fur trimmed hats and one piece suits. Once you’ve got that vision, add some loud and fast head-banging music in the background. This was our treat after snowshoeing up Beaver Creek Mountain to catch The Nothings. Fronted by one of the Hardscrabble friends, this punk band definitely had the afternoon snow crowd captivated. My favorite tune was Chunks of You in My Stool...

Here’s to strings in the Rockies,
LK

My Wonderful World - Want to Join the Cause?

2009-02-26T08:32:00.005-07:00

Way back when we started this bicycle adventure around the globe, we had a few goals in mind. They were simple; travel the world, promote geography, and inspire people to ride bicycles. As I now sit here, three months after the conclusion, trying to compile a book about our journey, I find myself focusing in the second goal - promote geography. Sounds kind of boring, huh? My answer is no, but I'm a geography geek.

Acutally, I wish there were more "geo geeks" out there. According to a 2006 survey, young americans are lacking basic geographic knowledge, but consider it "very important" for their careers. Considering that the subject of geography is the only core subject that does not receive funding under the No Child Left Behind Act, one might start to understand where the deficiency begins.

The 2006 Roper Survey was part of the inspiration for our trip. We now understand that promoting geography is a life long pursuit. We plan to continue our part through the publishing of a book, future bicycle touring expeditions, and continued blog ramblings. We encourage you to get involved as well. Here are a few ways to "go geo":

My Wonderful World website: http://mywonderfulworld.org/

Get A Map: http://www.mywonderfulworld.org/maps.html

Notify Lawmakers: http://capwiz.com/mywonderfulworld/issues/alert/?alertid=12670406&type=ML

Go on a trip: local, regional, or international. Explore your world!

Thank you. This has been a public service announcement from the Bicycle Geography Crew.

Is it Really Winter?

2009-02-25T09:39:00.002-07:00

Sun and singletrack...in February.

Vote for Chris!

2009-02-12T19:00:00.004-07:00

A few weeks ago we found this great bicycle tour and expedition company called Tour d'Afrique. They were advertising employment opportunities and we decided to put our hats in the ring. It's one of a few "irons" in the fire currently. If things progress, we'd be joining the crew for the inaugural Vuelta Sudamericana (Tour of South America) this summer. The company shares our passion for bicycles and travel; two things necessary for our inspired living.

In the meantime, we've submitted an entry for Tour d'Afrique's 'Tales From the Saddle' contest. As you know, we had a few 'tales' from our trip. It was a hard decision (not really) and, in the end, we chose the Laos brothel experience.

If you are so inclined, please read and vote for the entry here: http://tourdafrique.com/scripts/contest/articles/48/1/Beer-Buddhas-andBrothels/Page1.html.

Most votes = bicycle trip for Chris!

Thanks for supporting your Bicycle Geography crew,

LK and CK

Explore Your National Parks...by Bicycle

2009-02-12T16:04:00.002-07:00

Check out this video from IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association). It speaks to the great opportunity we have to support mountain biking in the National Park System. Enjoy! LK

Landscapes.Culture.Travel.Bicycles

2009-02-09T10:29:00.003-07:00

Happy Monday.

The Wide Eyed World Photo Galleries have been updated. Take a look when you get a chance.

http://www.lesliekehmeier.com/ - click the Portfolio link to access the galleries.

Enjoy!

Tunes: The Greatest Hits of Bicycle Geography

2009-02-03T19:11:00.008-07:00

I love music. I’ve loved it since I was a kid and I’ll even admit to liking Air Supply back in the day. Both Chris and I took iPods on our Bicycle Geography adventure and listened to them frequently. In the beginning, the music was a connection to home but as the trip progressed the soundtrack expanded. It’s fun to cue it up now because I can transport myself instantly to that certain time and place.

Flower Duet – Opera Greatest Hits
I first heard this song at a bed and breakfast in Ecuador. It’s my ultimate travel theme song.
1234 – Fiest
This song was popular on KBCO before we left for New Zealand
Outside – Staind
Playing on the platform when we bungy jumped over the Waikato River in New Zealand
Fight Outta You - Ben Harper & the Innocent Criminals
This kept me motivated when I was really homesick at the beginning of the trip
Bubbly – Colbie Caillat
I swear we heard this song multiple times a everyday in New Zealand
Breakdown - Jack Johnson
An original song of inspiration while planning our trip
What You Thought You Need - Jack Johnson
A song we could identify with as we traveled
Losing Keys – Jack Johnson
I hit the repeat button on this song constantly in Southeast Asia. And yes, I love Jack Johnson
Billie Jean – Michael Jackson
We were trying to figure the words to this song one day after climbing at Greyrock in Colorado
Papa Dukie and the Mud People – The Subdudes
Opening band at the Joe Cocker 'At Home in Colorado' Concert
Crumble – G.Love and Special Sauce
I listened to this on a rest day near Crested Butte, Colorado. I dragged my sleeping mat out of the tent and watched the clouds drift by for most of the afternoon
Handlebars – The Flobots
The song our friend Scott had stuck in his head when we rode up Cottonwood Pass in Colorado
Lovely Day – Bill Withers
After drinking a few shots of schnapps with our host at the B&B in Croatia, this song started to play. Everything was allllright…
50 Ways to Leave Your Lover – Paul Simon
See day 383
Don’t Believe in Love – Dido
On the radio in the car while we toured Barcelona
Give A Little Bit – Supertramp
Cruising in a convertible with our friend from Barcelona after having a wonderful tapas night. It is his mother’s favorite band and a fitting song for our time with him.
Bicycle Race – Queen
Just a cool song

Live, Learn, and Listen to Music,
LK

ps - link to the playlist here (opens iTunes)

Mixed Master (More Like Mixed Rookie)

2009-01-31T10:17:00.002-07:00

As I try to lead an inspired life, I try to do new things or change my perception of old things. Yesterday I did both – I tried mixed climbing.

Cue up the Beastie Boys…

Mixed climbing is essentially the act (or art) of ascending a route where the climber encounters both rock and ice. Using the technique of drytooling, the climber works his/her way up a rock face with crampons and ice tools. In climbing seasons past I had never wanted to give it a try; it looked scary and I thought it was beyond my capabilities. I was always focused on the ice, my technique, and getting to the top of the climb. Yesterday I got about half-way up the route before I merged onto the pillar with a climber from another group. He was leading his route and I decided to give him the right-of-way on the narrow pillar. As I was lowered back down, I noticed marks on the rock face to the left of the ice. “Maybe I’ll try this mixed thing” I said to Chris. His eyes lit up and he started rapping, to no particular song, “Mixed master, mixed master….” After a few desperate attempts and some pumped forearms, I was back on the ground. I had managed to make some upward progress, but nothing to write home about. What I did gain was some unexpected confidence.
I have just finished a book entitled Forces of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, and, of course, Surfing. It is a how-to book by Laird Hamilton on his approach to life and living. Towards the beginning of the text Laird talks about the “the joy of being a beginner”. “Trying something for the first time, you may think that you’ve just been fumbling around for a few hours. But in truth, you’ve worked your brain, your nervous system-your entire body-more than you know.”
I never did make it to the top of the route on any of my laps. And for once, it didn’t matter. I tried something new and opened my mind to the possibility that my climbing, as well as other things in my life, have a lot of potential.

Trying new things,
LK

thanks to my good friend Chris for the picture of me mixing it up

The Sun, Sea, and a Few Bicycle Taxis

2009-01-27T18:01:00.007-07:00

Cabo Style

We’ve just spent a week tanning our cans at the tip of Baja California. It’s been five years since my last visit. While a lot about Los Cabos has changed, many things remianed the same. The salsa is fresh, the smiles are big, and you’re always up for the sunrise.
Cabo is located on the tip of Baja California Sur. It falls below 28 degrees latitude and comprises over 28,000 square miles (accounting for 3.57% of Mexico’s land mass). The entire peninsula is over 800 miles long and is only 26 miles wide at its narrowest width. With a 2005 population of over 500,000, the state is known mainly for its fishing, agriculture, and tourism.
I made my first trip to Baja in 1993 when the area was on the fresh end of the tourist boom. I was a sophomore in college and nothing pleased me more than to bake in the sun and eat guacamole. Fifteen years and a lifetime of travel later I’ve returned to discover Cabo in a whole new light. I’m not sure if it’s the time that has passed or just a change in the way I travel. With a camera in hand, I traversed the city streets to try and capture the essence of everyday life. In the end, I found much of what I found on our global bicycle tour – people doing their thing, in their own unique environment.

Enjoy the photos,
LK

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bicyclegeography/sets/72157612971057489/

The Adventure Blog

2009-01-26T20:58:00.002-07:00

I found this post last week while checking some of our blog statistics. The Adventure Blog keeps a pulse on all sorts of adventures going on around the globe. We are flattered that they took the time to write about us.

http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/2009/01/bicycle-geography-cycling-around-world.html

Looks like we need more adventures on the horizon...

LK

Cabo Wabo - A Little Respite from Winter

2009-01-26T10:49:00.002-07:00

Just back from Cabo San Lucas. Working on pictures and a blog. Stay tuned for the surf, sand, and bicycle report.

Winter

2009-01-14T18:04:00.003-07:00

Winter is one of four seasons that the world experiences during the 365 days that constitutes a year. Due to the tilt of the Earth (23.5 degrees) we, in the northern hemisphere, are further away from the sun. As a result, we experience colder temperatures, shorter days, and, in Colorado, snow.
Today we decided to skip a day of work (from our imaginary jobs) and get out on the snow bikes. A few days ago Littleton got a few inches of the fresh stuff and we wanted to get our “cost per tire” down a bit. Also, after pedaling so many miles outdoors on our big trip, we can’t get motivated to use the treadmill in the basement. Who really gets psyched to do that anyway?
We got started early since the temperature was supposed to rise above freezing today. Mud and studded tires don’t mix well – picture Fruita after it rains. Leading the way to our favorite trail destination, I rolled over a variety of frozen terrain. I encountered glare ice, frozen snow, and powder. The first two weren’t a problem but the last one was a pain in the you-know-what.
After riding a few times on our winter tires, we are very pleased with the performance. We’ve found them to be very suitable for almost all conditions. On pure ice they grip well and we can even accelerate. On the varied terrain like packed or frozen snow, the tires are still very grippy, but do slip laterally in some instances. Powder seems to be the downfall of the spiked-enhanced rubber; you spend the same amount of time going sideways as you do forward. What you lose in distance, you more than make up for in workout intensity.
Ultimately, we have really enjoyed the winter landscape. In the past we have spent our time hiking to hang on frozen waterfalls or driving to escape the snow. I kind of like this part of reinventing ourselves; it’s new, it’s challenging, and it keeps us outside on the bikes.
Life is good,
LK

Be the Change

2009-01-08T09:38:00.003-07:00

“We must be the change we wish to see in the world”.
It’s one of my favorite quotes and one I try to live by. Basically, I think it just boils down to the notion of walking the walk instead of talking the talk. I read the following article online the other day. Here is a guy who is finding out how to “be the change”.

Headed to the inauguration on two wheels, a hope, and a prayer – Los Angeles Times

Happy New Year 2009

2008-12-31T20:25:00.002-07:00

The Cleanest Line: Patagonia Blog Post

2008-12-29T16:52:00.004-07:00

I shared our Bicycle Geography adventure with the folks at Patagonia. They kindly posted the blog today. You can read the post here.

Enjoy!

Peace on Earth

2008-12-25T10:32:00.003-07:00

Happy Holidays from the Kehmeiers. Be Well.

The Final Podcasts...For Now Anyway

2008-12-18T20:12:00.005-07:00

Here they are - the "end of trip" thoughts. For the podcasts, visit our website: http://bicyclegeography.googlepages.com/

What does it mean to you to have traveled around the world by bicycle?

LK: It means that Chris and I made a commitment to each other and a common goal, and then set out to accomplish it. We took a journey together, doing something we love. It means that anyone has the ability to have dreams and follow them.

CK: For me it means that I did something unique. Others have done it, others have gone bigger, and faster, but no one else did the way that Leslie and I did it. I think that our way and our style spoke volumes about how we like to interact, travel and live.

What is it like, a month on, to be back in the United States?

LK: From a personal perspective - it’s been really good and, sometimes, really hard. Life changed a lot for us while it didn’t change much at home. I’m kind of easing back into things. Right now, I’m working on some of my creative business ideas.
From a national perspective – the economy is dominating both the news and our personal conversations. I’m still trying to it figure out.

CK: Being back for a month now, I am finally starting to feel settled. I find that I am restless for several hours during the day, but as soon as I find a job that will take care of that.

What’s next?

LK: Still sorting it out. I thought I had a pretty good plan in my mind while we were still in Europe but I find myself not wanted to rush into anything. Luckily, we have a very supportive family…

Short term – Starting a GIS consulting business. Making maps is what I did before life on a bicycle and I think it’s a profession to continue. I’m also getting myself out there in the photography world. To that end, we’re both jonesin’ to get outside this winter to enjoy a season we missed last year. I’m anxious to get my crampons and ice tools out. Finally, I think Chris and I both are interested in talking to people about our journey so we’ll probably put together a good presentation and slide show.
Long Term – Haven’t given up on the idea of still traveling. Bicycle travel is a wonderful to see the world – probably just closer the home.
I would also like to write a book about our journey. I envision it as something that’s part journal, part geography text book. I really like the “live, learn, ride” motto that we came up with as we were pedaling. It definitely has potential.

CK: I see us doing some domestic traveling throughout the west by bicycle. I would really like to ride the Colorado Trail from Denver to Durango or the continental divide trail Colorado north.

Do you think you’ve changed? If so, how?

LK: Most certainly. I think my perspective on how I’d like to live my life has changed. I just read an article in Outside Magazine about Kelly Slater, the surfer. His comments - “I’ve heard that motivation is temporary and inspiration is permanent…I’m trying to have an inspired career, to live an inspired life.” I think it sums up how I feel now. I feel very inspired, my creativity is flowing and I understand limits as boundaries not obstacles.

CK: I do think I've changed. I find that I take notice of details now. Slowing our lives to a crawl taught us to take it all in, and the details of things really started to stand out.

Favorite Country, Best Food?

LK: Tie between Laos and Croatia.
Laos – noodle soup, morning glory, laap

CK: Laos

Tapas in Spain, or street stall noodle soup in Laos.

Best and worst day on the bike?

LK: Worst – Chris’ wreck in Switzerland. I don’t think about death very often. I did that day.
Best – Almost everyday on the bicycle was great. If I have to pick one it would have been day 125 on the Great Ocean Road. I just remember that the pedaling was easy and the views were spectacular. It was one of those days that I knew exactly why I had decided to bicycle around the world.

CK: It will sound weird, but they were the same day. It was when I wrecked in Switzerland. The trauma of the accident was a huge drain on my body and on my psyche. What happened after the accident was a culmination of all things that I was finding out about the world. The kindness of strangers, the beauty of the landscape, the magic in day to day life. It was just such a contrast of things that I think both tend to stand out.

So, is this the end? No way - Bicycle Geography will keep pedaling - we just don't know where yet...

Stay Tuned!

A New Bicycle

2008-12-14T16:59:00.002-07:00

I think new is a relative term when it comes to my new bicycle. Chris is been working his fingers to the bone – literally. He’s found a winter project; he’ll be refinishing my 1973 Montgomery Ward Open Road. I bought it a garage sale last summer at a house down the street from my parents. I think the orange, yellow, and brown colors are actually back in style. I contemplated keeping it in original condition but I really want an American Flyer. I want a bicycle that would be worthy of riding in the Crested Butte 4th of July parade. I want stars, stripes, and sparkly grips.
Chris informed me that he’s really looking forward “creating” – the removal of paint currently is, and I quote, “the sucky part”. The actual design has been a secret and I’m looking forward to the result. I think there might even be a custom seat involved.

I’ll keep you posted,
LK

More Cork

2008-12-10T19:55:00.006-07:00

We're not in Portugal anymore but that doesn't mean we can't talk about cork. As you know, we were fascinated by the cork forests as we rode through the southwestern part of the Iberian Peninsula. After a few blog posts about our observations, we recieved a comment from a company called Wicanders Flooring. They are in the business of cork and were interested in acquiring any photos we had from our travels through the Montado forests. Wicanders has their own blog with a very good purpose:

"The Wicanders blog is about using cork oak to help benefit the world’s health, wellbeing, and socioeconomic development. As the industry leader in cork oak flooring, we are proud to actively participate in the exchange of ideas about health and sustainability, promote green building practices, and preserve the Montado cork oak forests."

We sent some shots their way and were excited to see that they've been posted on the Wicanders blog. You can view the post here. Scroll down below the "Wineopoly" graphic to see our photos.

Reentry

2008-12-10T19:39:00.002-07:00

It’s harder than I thought it would be. I was talking with a friend today and she had a great perspective. She said that it’s hard to notice how busy and stressful life is when you’re home living it. It’s an entirely different story when you return to it after a long break. I totally agree. I think I’m trying to figure out how to balance what I’ve learned on the road with what I didn’t need from the past. I’d like to keep the best parts of who I was and mix them with the person I am now.

So far reentry has been a blessing and a curse. In three weeks I’ve done the following analysis:
Family and Friends
Up - we have been able to catch up with most everyone. It feels really good to interact, share, and sleep in familiar places.
Down - Traveling in the car. For now, it’s a necessary evil.
Clothes
Up - I feel like a have an entirely new wardrobe.
Down – Too many choices; there is laundry everywhere.
Employment
Up – A chance to do something creative.
Down – Do I want a “grown-up” job again?

Despite the roller coaster of emotions, I realize that I am living life. Furthermore, I’m living it as I imagined. It’s real, it’s intense, and ultimately, it’s inspired. We can’t experience the highs without the lows, the exceptional without the ordinary. I think I’m facing in the right direction; I just need to move forward.

LK

The Bicycle Commuting Diaries: Studded Tires and Snow Plows

2008-12-09T18:03:00.001-07:00

Winter is approaching and in Colorado that usually means one thing; snow. In our previous life, we usually parked the bikes in the garage and set up the stationary trainer as the last fall leaves were hitting the ground. This year we decided to “buck up” and keep riding through the ice, snow, and freezing temperatures.
Enter the snow tire for bicycles. We ordered the Ice Spiker Pro from our good friends at Schwalbe and Chris got them installed this morning. Neither one of us has rolled a bicycle with studs before so we decided to go for a test run. The tires require a break in period on pavement so, per the instructions, we started the “running in” process by riding to the post office.
Even though the route was the usual urban adventure of paved path and busy intersections, we found ourselves very excited for the adventure. With a new blanket of snow and a clear blue sky we navigated our way south with smiles on our faces. Intersections were a little crazy as we had to crash our way through the snow piled up from the cleared roads. We must have garnered some attention because most cars gave us the right away.
The only scary part came when we were faced with a wave of snow being thrown from an on-coming plow. I was about the head into a snow bank when the driver looked our way, slowed down, and lifted his plow. I guess that will be rule #1 on the Winter Riding Guide – “watch for snow removal equipment”.

Here’s to snow crunching under your tires,
LK

1 World, Two Wheels

2008-12-06T15:31:00.002-07:00

Check this out - see what happens when you "go by bike". http://1world2wheels.org/

Wide Eyed World Photography

2008-12-01T20:39:00.003-07:00

I’ve decided to put myself out there. If you have a moment, take a peek.

http://www.lesliekehmeier.com

Thanks,
LK

Save the Trails: Moab

2008-12-01T10:47:00.003-07:00

If you’re interested in taking action for the environment, tourism and recreation…

The BLM will be having a lease sale on December 19th. The leases will be available for oil and gas extraction and will affect some very popular and pristine areas in Moab, Utah. Tusher Canyon, Barlett Wash, and Amassa Back are just some of the places that could be impacted.

If you’ve ever been to Moab, you know that it is a very special place. The elements and time have sculpted some spectacular landscapes. Chris and I usually make at least one trip a year and always see something new and amazing every time we go.

To take action, visit one of the following websites. The deadline is soon - December 4 (sorry for the late notice).

IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association)
http://www.imba.com/news/action_alerts/11_08/11_19_moab_leases.html

Access Fund
http://www.accessfund.org/display/page/AA/110

Firing Up My Fax Machine,
LK

Poland to Portugal: How Far? How Many?

2008-11-25T19:42:00.006-07:00

Here’s the recap from the Europe leg of our Bicycle Geography Adventure…

Days on the Continent/Days Pedaling: 106/62
Distance Covered: 3,625 km
Hours Pedaling: 244.5
Avg Speed: 15.0 kph
Longest Day: Beziers to Perpignan 104 km
Incidents: 2 (one angry driver in Croatia, one accident in the Alps)

Countries Visited: 9 – Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Italy, Switzerland, France,
Spain, Portugal
Languages Attempted: Polish, Slovakian, Hungarian, Croatian, Italian, German, French,
Spanish, Portuguese

Favorite Country: Croatia (CK), Croatia/Portugal (LK)
Favorite Food: Anything at a tapas bar (CK), croissants (LK and only the ones in France)
Best Beer: Zlaty Bazant – Slovakia

Europe was fantastic for bicycle touring. The continent is full of amazing scenery and interesting culture. Despite the language barriers, we found the interactions with the locals to be quite friendly. We weren’t rock stars as we were in Laos, but we got plenty of smiles and waves.
Although the US Dollar is weaker than the Euro, there are many deals to be found. If you’re into camping and self-catering you can live quite well.
We found roads and highways to be in great condition and drivers are used to bicyclists. In fact, most towns and cities were full of people pedaling.

Stay tuned for the entire trip recap…

LK

Thank You

2008-11-22T20:28:00.001-07:00

Without a long introduction or philosophic statement, we’d like to give out many thanks to many people.

To our family and friends at home – thank you for your love, support, and encouragement. Your belief in our journey gave us great strength.

To our new friends on the road – thank you for sharing your time with us. You gave us food, shelter, great conversation, and friendship. The universe brought us together and we will never forget you.

To our blog readers – thank you for taking an interest in our journey. You have made us feel special. We have had great fun sharing our thoughts and adventures.

To our sponsors – thank you for your partnership. Your investment in this grassroots project kept us traveling in the right direction (dry, warm, satiated, organized, lubed, rolling, and fully charged).

"Gratitude unlocks the fullness of life. It turns what we have into enough, and more. It turns denial into acceptance, chaos to order, confusion to clarity. It can turn a meal into a feast, a house into a home, a stranger into a friend. Gratitude makes sense of our past, brings peace for today, and creates a vision for tomorrow." -- Melody Beattie

LK and CK

Travel Circus

2008-11-21T12:49:00.001-07:00

Day: 422
Lisbon to Denver
Time: 26 hours

Like any circus you have seen there are big tops, strong men, big men, and the freaks. The only thing missing were the animals, but there was one bird that made a brief appearance.
We caught our early taxi from the hotel to the airport. Traveling with boxed bikes can be a little bulky at times, but with a crazed cabbie and short ride to the airport those weren’t a problem. The cabbie just shoved them in the back and left the hatch open. Leslie spent the first part of the day hanging onto the bikes making sure they didn’t fly out in a roundabout. Thankfully traffic was light that early in the day and the cabbie didn’t have to goose it too much. Once at the airport we somehow got on the same schedule as the ‘pushy’ couple. You know the ones who have to first in line and argue with the ticket agents? They even bossed us on how to run the elevator. Fun beginning to the day. We got a little brekkie at the airport and enjoyed our last cup of Café com leite (½ strong coffee + ½ hot milk). The flight to Frankfurt was mostly spent sleeping so it went quickly. Our layover was short and after 45 minutes of hanging out at the gate we boarded the plane for the long haul. I managed to get behind a guy who had to have his seat leaned back all the way, but as luck would have it there was an open seat on the other side of Leslie next to a nice little Polish Grandma. There was no one in front of me so all was well. About an hour into the flight a guy further up decided that he needed to move and took the seat in front of me. He also leaned it all the way back, but he didn’t last too long in that seat since I placed a knee in his back. He ended up moving several more times throughout the flight, eventually settling in the crew member section on final landing. That flight was spent catching up on movies, eating and napping very little. We finally got into Chicago, where we flew through customs only to get snagged in one of the slowest security lines I have encountered. I love the European style of security; quick, dirty and usually accompanied with a heavily armed guard. We finally got to our gate and lined up with all the other folks. The Chicago to Denver flight was full to the brim with the overheads stuffed beyond belief. I am sure that the flight crews love the charge for checked baggage. There were people in line with big suitcases that intended to carry them on. We finally got settled, got some last minute repair work done on the plane, and vroom off down the runway we went. The kicker was right when we got airborne there was a bang, flash of light and smell of smoke. The pilot turned to plane around and we got a priority emergency landing. We were even met by a fire truck or two to make sure the left engine wasn’t on fire. The official report was that a bird had flown or gotten sucked into the engine on takeoff. The airline handled it all very well and we taxied back to the terminal where we jumped off and got on another plane. We took off a little while later and that flight was nice and uneventful.
We touched down, got our bags and bikes, hustled out to meet the car and off we went. We are a little tired, but did manage to get a good night sleep. The rest of the day will be spent unpacking, checking our pile of mail (3 months worth) and sleeping. Travel is always great while you are on the road, it is the set up and take down that is the wearing part.
CK

The End is Just the Beginning

2008-11-19T14:04:00.001-07:00

Day 421
Lisbon

In the beginning we approached the planning of our trip like writing a business plan. As rigid as that seems, it gave us some boundaries to work with. Here are some definitions that helped us to define those boundaries:

Bicycle Geography: The study of the world and all that’s in it (people, places and time) from the seat of a two-wheeled, human powered machine.

Commitment – engagement and involvement

Trust – belief and confidence in the reality, truth and goodness of a person or thing

Adventure – participation in bold and exciting undertakings or endeavors

Humility – having an unassuming nature

Wonder – a state of mind created by something unexpected or extraordinary

I remember many days where I recited those values in my head. It was mostly just a way to keep myself in context, going forward in the direction of the goal. I guess it worked.
Sitting here, writing this blog from Portugal, I laugh at the thought of our first day out in New Zealand. We didn’t really know what we had gotten ourselves into. I think that was a good thing – it made the humility and wonder part all the better.

See you next time on home soil,
LK

Props

2008-11-18T14:37:00.002-07:00

Day 419

Lisboa

We want to give out some props to some bicycle people in Portugal. Thanks to Blue Coast Bikes and Loja de Bicicletas.

Blue Coast was kind enough to help us with route and transportation ideas into Lisbon. Without them we might still be trying to ride across the city (we’ve been here for two days now).

Loja de Bicicletas hooked us up with some bomber boxes. They deal in Cannondale, Rocky Mountain, Mondraker, and KTM. Loja’s shop also had that great shop oil smell. It’s kind of like new car smell only better.

Peace,
LK

Just Wanted to Let You Know

2008-11-16T15:40:00.002-07:00

Day 418
Setubal to Lisbon
Time: A little riding and a lot of train
Distance: 58.3 km
Avg Speed: 43.5 kph (that’s the train)
Terrain: Flat
Location: N 38˚ 45’ 32.7”, E 09˚ 09’ 10.9”

After 418 days on the ‘road’ I have to come clean. We haven’t left Leslie’s parents basement in over a year. The whole blog and picture thing was made up. It was all fabricated off the internet. The stories from the road were made up with the help of Lonely Planet books. All the photos with us in them were photo shopped.
There, I now have a clean conscience.
On a happier note, Leslie and I just finished riding our bikes around the world. I know that we did ride a train today, but it was in between two riding sections. Where did we celebrate our achievement…McDonald’s of course!!
We are both blind to the fact that we just finished a long sought after dream. I would imagine that in a day or two we will realize that we ‘nuked our foundation’ and have a much different life to return to. The beauty of that is the fact that we are much different people. Sometime, somewhere along the way we both changed. It wasn’t a wake up different change (although some mornings it felt like it), it was a gradual change. We knew we would, we just weren’t sure how much. I don’t think either one of us is sure how much we have.
Right now our priorities are finding a laundromat, finding some boxes for the bikes and doing a little souvenir shopping. I think that the Laundromat may be the hardest one. The nice thing is we have some clothes that are so worn and smelly that they won’t be getting a ride back home with us.
Lisbon isn’t where we thought we would be 416 days ago, or even a month ago. Us being flexible with the weather along with our refusal to ride in the cold brought us here. Not much did go according to our little blueprint we hammered out before we left. I think that our relationship came through the stresses and triumphs with strength and grace. I attribute that to my fellow traveler and partner in crime. I have come to know that wherever I am in the world, I am always home as long as Leslie is at my side (or pulling me through a headwind).

Loving being loved.
CK

The Power of Bicycles

2008-11-16T15:34:00.002-07:00

Day 417
Setubal

The main event of the day was finding the train station and working out the logistics of getting to Lisbon. After our hard fought battle to get to Seville we are reverting back to our habit of thorough transportation planning. After talking to the guy at the ticket window we are ready for another adventure in a big city. Hopefully we’ll have nothing interesting to report.
Our visit to the train station sparked a spirited conversation as we walked to our next stop. We discussed the combination of bicycles, public transportation, and our experiences throughout the trip. We’ve been able to travel with our bicycles on trains and ferries relatively easily (except for Spain). We also chatted about the utility of the two-wheeled machine and the possibilities it has beyond a recreational capacity. We’ve seen plenty of practical use here in Europe but not enough in the US.
Consider the following (fine graphics are available on the World Bicycle Relief Webpage):

Time
During a commuting day of 10 miles traveled, a bicycle saves 3 hours.
Walking – 2.5 miles per hour
Bicycling – 10 miles per hour
Capacity
Riding a bicycle increases one's capacity by 5 times.
Effort
As time increases, effort to travel increases. Riding a bicycle requires less effort, allowing one to travel farther in less time.
Distance
Over equal units of time, one can ride a bicycle 4 times the distance as one walking.

After waving our righteous fingers, we came to a conclusion. As fuel prices remain high and people are looking for ways to save money, the bicycle is a very viable means of transport. To that end, it is very important that public transportation compliments the choice of traveling by bicycle.
All of that came from finding out that our bikes travel for free on the train tomorrow.

So, where did we go after the train station? We visited the Igreja de Jesus, a late Gothic church built with the Manueline architectural style. The church was in a very natural state – not pristine, but not in shambles. The pillars of the church were very unique compared to anything I’ve seen in all of Europe. The design is very ornate while the stone is very rustic. Each column twists from floor to ceiling and provides an interesting contrast to the tile mosaics that line the church walls. The structure is apparently the first to use this particular style and we’ll be looking for more buildings in Lisbon for comparison.

Have a good weekend,
LK

New Things and Old Things

2008-11-15T09:15:00.003-07:00

Day: 416
Grândola to Setubal
Time: 2:52
Distance: 47.2 km
Avg Speed: 16.4 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 38 30' N, 08 58' W

We slept through our alarms this morning. The bed was too warm, and the heavy curtains were keeping out just enough light to fool us. We still made it to the free brekkie before the rest of the guests. Just enough time to drink all the coffee and eat the croissants. We both thought that the croissants are the best ones we have had since France. On a total side note, today is Prince Charles’ 60th birthday. There was a party and the royal cavalry even did a 41 gun salute at his precise birth time. The salute was a request of the queen. I love BBC News.
The riding today was pretty straightforward. The road we needed was off the main roundabout in Grândola and after that it was point it straight and go. Even though the road was a back road on the map it turned into a truck route. The truckers were all nice and waited for oncoming traffic to pass and didn’t buzz us on blind corners. Part of the ride today was along a narrow spit of sand that led to our only water crossing of the day. Leslie wanted to swim it, but I talked her into taking a ferry. We know the game when it comes to ferry boats and after waiting our turn with the cars we were allowed to jump the line and go to the front of the boat. The crossing went quickly and I was able to pass the little time by watching the fishermen lining the beach.
Setubal reminded us both of the waterfront in Hobart, Tasmania. The old classic buildings tumble down the hill to the waterfront where they are met by the wharfs and piers servicing all the ships that port here. We quickly found a nice place to stay and took a little rest before heading out. Our first order of business was internet and the best place for that is…McDonald’s!! They didn’t have internet, but they did have fries and a coke. From there we went to the library where they did have internet along with a huge display of Marxism and Chè Guevara. We have noticed a lot of bill boards and signs for the Portuguese Communist Party. Last night we even stayed across the street from the district HQ. We left the library in the dark and found our way back into our neighborhood. The locals were out and the roasted chestnut vendors were on every corner. Neither of us had ever had them so we parted with a few Euro and got a bag. WOW! They are really good. We both may get our own bag tomorrow night. Trying new things only leads to dead ends (or belly aches) once in a great while. Most of the time you are left with a smile on your face and new understanding of the things that make life tick.
Tick tock, tick tock
CK

Presence

2008-11-14T09:49:00.001-07:00

Day: 415
Cercal to Grândola
Time: 3:59:00
Distance: 54.7
Avg Speed: 14.7
Terrain: Hills
Location: N 38˚ 10’ 31.8”, 08˚ 34’ 4.1” W

Man, I’m getting tired. I don’t know if it’s the fact that we are on day 415 and 9,500+ kilometers into the trip or if my body just knows the end is near. Fatigue has been setting in around lunchtime and we usually have a couple of more hours to go before the day is done. Perhaps it has something to do with the weeklong break we took recently. Chris equated it to running a car for three months, turning it off, and now it doesn’t want to start again. With one or two more days to go, I think we can muster up the last little bit of energy. I just keep telling myself to be present and enjoy the last bit of pedaling. Soon enough we’ll be home facing the winter months and no regular rides to depend on.
We had another peaceful ride through the undulating cork groves today. I enjoyed examining all of the twisted branches of the trees with no leaves. I’ve become quite fascinated with these oaks. I also tried to soak up the atmosphere; blue skies, rural landscape, and smiling locals. Most people will give a wave if you give them a nod. I’ve had such a good feeling from most rural people across Europe, but the Portuguese are special. I don’t know what it is exactly, but they just have this quiet confidence about them.
And so we come to the eve of the last day riding. I’m sure it won’t be the last time we prepare for the last day of a big ride. I’d like to think that we have many more adventures with bicycles ahead of us. It will probably be a day of reflection and I’m sure we’ll share our thoughts here. You’ll probably get tired of us philosophizing in the next week or so. I’m finding that it’s hard not to think about what we’ve done, where we’ve been, and how life has changed. My mom shared a quote with me yesterday in an email. Apparently it was something that I wrote down when I was in college. Ironically it’s something that puts our trip into perspective.

"Presence: Success is a matter of desire, failure is a matter of excuses. Strength is building a road of dreams into the future, but still following it when weakness arises. And nothing happens unless the mind has presence."

Until tomorrow,
LK

Alchemy

2008-11-14T09:45:00.004-07:00

Day: 414
Odeceixe to Cercal
Time: 4:04
Distance: 54.8 km
Avg Speed: 13.2 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: N 37˚ 48’ 3.2”, W 08˚ 40’ 20.0”

In case you haven’t read it, or haven’t heard of it there is a great book called The Alchemist. It is about dreams, love, the world and the little signposts along the way pointing you where to go. I don’t know if I have mentioned it before or not, if I have forgive me.

Today we had our own little alchemy of the world. We both fell in love with our little lady at the Casa da Celeste pension. She treated us great, gave us the run of the place and gave us coffee until we were jittery with caffeinated tension. She also didn’t speak a word of English and I think the only Portuguese we spoke to her was good morning and thank you. It didn’t matter because we understood each other perfectly and carried on conversations as if we were speaking the same language. After rolling out (still in a haze of caffeine) we started our first climb of the day. The headwind had gone unnoticed until then and we both remarked that the terrain, the scenery and the wind was very reminiscent of New Zealand. We both agreed that New Zealand was hard for us, but that it being hard made the rest of our trip a lot easier. We fought the headwind for about 30 km (along with hills, hills and more hills) where we passed a couple of blokes from Brisbane, Australia heading the opposite direction. They were enjoying our headwind (for it was a strong tailwind for them) and were on their way down to the southern coast. The were 3 days into their 3 month tour and we laughed since we had about 3 days left in ours. They were planning on hugging the coast all the way to Eastern Italy where they were going to fly home. It sounded like an awesome trip, and we wished them good luck as they were whisked off. I didn’t know if we were looking for parallels with everything today, or they were just there for us. We finally got to our lunch spot in a little town just off the coast called Villa Nova de Milfontes. Not much there except for a bridge, some holiday homes and a gas station. It was on the side of this gas station that we decided to take a break. Right when we sat down a big rig pulled up with a Portuguese license plate that read Pokemon. For those people not in the know that is Leslie’s old manager’s nickname. What was even better was the guy that came strolling up 10 seconds later wearing a tourist sweatshirt that said Colorado Springs on it. I was pretty sure we weren’t looking for parallels anymore, the signs were there for us. We have no idea what they meant, but they were there.
We jumped back on the bikes with a smile/smirk on our faces and headed off to our destination for the night. The gas station attendant at our lunch stop said that there were a few places to stay the night in Cercal so we headed off up the hill. The climb was long, but easy and took us through some of the thickest cork oak groves yet. We knew that we had found a good town to stay in when there were tractors on the road and in the roundabout along with all the other traffic.
Making gold out of what we got.
CK

Culinary Wonderland

2008-11-12T10:13:00.001-07:00

Day 413

“You can eat the whole thing; just don’t look at its eyes.” This comes from the server who sets the plate of grilled squid down in front of Chris. Chris nodded as he popped the first one in his mouth. Man, am I glad I ordered a pizza…

Portugal is full of surprises when it comes to gastronomy. It just goes to show that this little country has had a BIG impact throughout the world. For instance, did you know that the Japanese technique of deep frying food (called tempura) was actually introduced by Portuguese traders and missionaries? Wouldn’t you just assume that the curry-based favorite of vindaloo comes from India? Sort of; the hybrid of wine (vinho) and garlic (alho) sauce was developed by the Christian community in Portuguese Goa. At least now I know why we’ve seen so many Indian food restaurants.
It all sounds crazy until you think about the history of exploration that originated from this country. Vasco da Gama, the great explorer, opened the trade route to India. This paved the path for Portugal to become the wealthiest country in Europe in the late 1400s. By way of the Treaty of Tordesillas the country had divided the world in two with Spain. Portugal’s empire would influence and dominate the Orient. Can you say five spice powder? The prosperity of flavor was realized on the first expedition of de Gama when he brought back pepper. It was a small amount but enough to pay for three times the cost of the trip. Amazingly, the spice trade was something that was just as lucrative as the extraction of gold from Africa. In the financial times of today I think you could do better with precious metals rather than table condiments. Isn’t history cool?
Oh, I forgot to mention that marmalade is also a Portuguese original. We had some with breakfast this morning – it was even a little spicy…

Here’s to the world of food,
LK

Day 412: Sagres to Odeceixe

2008-11-11T08:58:00.002-07:00

Time: 4:00
Distance: 62.46 km
Avg Speed: 15.6 kph
Terrain: Hilly
Location: N 37˚ 25’ 56.9” E 08˚ 46’ 11.1”

Our stay at the pousada last night was kind of a random splurge on our giant ocean of nights on the road. The room was nice and tidy, the dinner was worthy of writing home about and this mornings breakfast was a sight for hungry eyes. We both were happy to have voluntarily wanted to stay there and were quite cheery as we got on the road this morning. Leslie started the day off by posing a question (she has become more and more philosophical the closer we get to going home). She asked ‘where do you wish we had gone that had planned to go and didn’t end up going and where do you wish we had gone and didn’t plan on going’. She didn’t want my answer right then, she wanted me to think about it. The first part of the question is easy; Vietnam. I think it has to do with being so close to its border and deciding to head home with a broken wheel in tow. Leaving Vietnam untouched worked out and we were able to have a nice summer in Colorado. The second part of the question was a little tougher and I don’t think I have come up with a definitive answer. Right now I am wavering on South America and the far north of Europe. At least I have it narrowed down to a planet.
With fodder to chew on we rode out of Sagres and north to Odeceixe. The landscape changed from the dessert-scape of the southern coast to eucalyptus forest with agriculture and cork tree groves sprinkled here and there. I finally did some reading about the cork industry here and found out that a cork oak has about a 150 year life span of harvesting. The first harvest of a tree’s bark usually doesn’t occur until the tree is about 20 years old, but after that it is harvested every 9 years or so. The cork taken off of older, more harvested trees is of higher quality and gets better money. The plastic cork revolution has taken its toll on the cork industry in Portugal, but the industry is looking into making cork a fashionable wine stopper once again. Feel free to wow your friends around the water cooler.
Leslie set a new all time record for photos shot on a riding day. Her rest day record is set high at around 150 photos, but today she was able to squeeze in 81 shots even with riding for 4 hours. Nice to see that she hasn’t slowed down.
We were warned that Odeceixe is a pretty sleepy little town in the off season. I think that sleepy is an understatement. The first two guesthouses we went into were wide open, but totally unmanned. Usually there is a sign saying help yourself and catch up with me later, but here there was nothing. Finally we were about to just sit at a café and wait awhile, but when I looked back up the street I saw a little lady waiving to me. I quickly walked up to her and she got us in to her place. I guess a little old man on his walk saw us step into her place and then saw us head down to the café. Not wanting his friend to miss out on business he went and found her and got us all straight. Sometimes it is nice to stand out like sore thumbs.
Standing bigger and better,
CK

The End of the World

2008-11-09T15:33:00.002-07:00

Day: 411
Lagos to Sagres
Time: 2:35:00
Distance: 37.8 kilometers
Avg Speed: 14.6 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: N 37˚ 00’ 21.9” E 08˚ 56’ 3.0”

We arrived in Sagres today, one of the most southwestern points in Europe. Before the days of major exploration, it was thought that this was the far end of the world. A man named Henry the Navigator changed all of that when he settled in Sagres and created a school for navigation. He trained the likes of Magellan and Vasco da Gama and the rest, as they say, is history.

The day started with blue skies once again as we pedaled west. We had planned to ride a combination of highway and back roads. There was no hurry since we only had about 35 kilometers or so to our destination. About 30 minutes into the ride we turned toward the ocean and the little towns of Luz and Bergau. The first town was easy enough to navigate through. The second proved to be frustrating enough that Chris took over the duties of map reader. He’s been doing a bit of backseat pedaling and I decided that I couldn’t deal with it again today. There was no scene, no exchange of terse words, just a smile when I handed over the map. “I’ll follow you” I said calmly. Five minutes later we lost the pavement and a dirt road stretched out far into the distance. “Classic Kehmeier…” I thought to myself but uttered nothing to him. I was up for the adventure and it turned out to be a very scenic one. We rolled up and down the coast with ocean views the whole way. It was a nice respite before joining the highway again. The further from Lagos we went the less development we saw. Much of the coast is protected in this part of the Algarve and makes for some really spectacular bicycle touring.
Our ride was short and we rolled into town just after 1pm. We followed the sign to the pousada and parked our bicycles out front. Pousadas are government owned accommodation. They are very up market and offer the chance to stay in unique settings that reflect the character and history of the region. They were first built in the early 1940s so that people traveling would have a place to stay. Eventually, historic buildings were also converted and it was possible to stay in castles, mansions, and monasteries. We’ve had the full pousada experience today, right down to multiple course dinner with several changes of tableware. At one point Chris traded his two forks and two knives for three forks and three knives while I got one fork and a spoon. Even the server had a little trouble remembering what went where. Oh well, it wouldn’t be that memorable if we had known exactly what to do.
Tomorrow we make the turn to ride up the west coast. We’re on the homestretch and looking forward to savoring every minute.

Cheers,
LK

Rolling

2008-11-09T15:30:00.001-07:00

Day: 410
Albufeira to Lagos
Time: 3:48
Distance: 60 km
Avg Speed: 15.8 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: N 37˚ 05’ 42.1”, E 08˚ 40’ 28.4”

Portugal has reverted to its old ways for us. When we first arrived in the north it was warm and sunny. Since then a cold front had blown in and cooled things off a bit for not only Portugal, but most of Europe. Today we got back those clear sunny days with enough warmth to roll in a t-shirt. First thing we had to do before getting out of Albufeira was a little laundry though. The laundromat was on our way out of town so we stopped and did a load of wash. It is always nice to have a couple of clean items swimming in your pannier. Leslie watched the wash while I ran over to the grocery store to get some provisions for the day. We had been spoiled with refrigeration for a week and we really didn’t have anything road stable (or hot pannier proof). I timed my shopping perfect to coincide with the mad Saturday rush. I knew the layout of this store so I quickly got what I came for, but had a hard time finding the peanut butter. Peanut butter isn’t a big thing in Europe (or the rest of the world) but at most big markets you can usually find a jar or two. I was looking in all the aisles and paying more attention to the search rather than my surroundings. I stood up from looking down low when WHOOSH, something hit my little basket and spun me around. No voice, no look, nothing, just the back end of a little old lady rushing by me heading to the fish section. I took that as my cue to find that PB and get out of dodge before a whole gang of them came after me. I eventually found it and timed my arrival back at the laundry to help fold. We got on the road with the sun high and the temperature getting into the 70’s. The landscapes around us changed from busy resort towns, to agriculture lands with orange and lemon trees, to sleepy local towns still in the 1950’s, to large river estuaries teeming with birds and fishermen. We eventually located Lagos and eventually found a place to stay. This past week has by far been the longest break we have had this leg of our journey and both of us are feeling a little bit haggard tonight. Tomorrow is supposed to be another nice one and we are looking forward to getting back our bike legs.
CK

ps - Happy Birthday to Makayla!

Once Upon a Time I Used to be a Climber

2008-11-07T13:30:00.003-07:00

I’m sitting here in the lobby of our resort downloading the latest episode of CSI. My life may have been simplified but I still have a few vices. Anyway, while I wait for the file to transfer, I have been looking at photos on our Flickr photo web page. I stumbled across a bunch of photos from the spring and summer of last year. Apparently, I used to be a climber. I still am, I’ve just spent a little more time going across the horizontal than up the vertical in the last 14 months.
Viewing the photos made me realize that our journey started long before we touched down in Auckland, New Zealand. It actually started on the slopes of Kilimanjaro, Longs Peak, and the Grand Teton. Some summits were successful while others were not. Every adventure was the beginning of our new way of life and it was a chance to spend time with some of the most important people in our lives. Now looking back I realize it was also preparation for the voyage we are now close to finishing. What they say is true; it’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey.

Here’s to the clank of a carabiner and the sound of snow under crampons,
LK

Geography Lesson: Portugal

2008-11-06T10:15:00.002-07:00

Day 408
Albufeira

We’ve been in Portugal for ten days now and it’s probably about time to share some info. It’s the last country we will visit before returning home in a few weeks.
The southwestern-most country in Europe is definitely one of the most interesting. One might think that it is similar to its neighbor Spain. Surprisingly, Portugal is very unique and is proud to stand on its own.
In terms of the landscape, Portugal covers 92,000 sq kilometers of the Iberian Peninsula and is very diverse. With steep mountains in the north, dry plains in the central region and wetlands in the southeast, the country is home a full range of topography. We have certainly experienced the hilly aspect of the interior on our route from Beja south to the Algarve coast.
Economically, Portugal is one of Europe’s poorest countries. Most of the population works in agriculture while tourism is the largest industry. Lisbon has the lowest cost of living for any European capital city. From a traveler’s perspective, Portugal has so far been one of the best values.
Portugal joined the EU in 1986 and is governed by a parliamentary democracy. It gained its independence in 1140 and includes the autonomous islands of Madeira and the Azores.
Here are some more interesting facts:
Population: 10.6 million (2007)
Major Language: Portuguese (300 million people world wide speak this language)
Number of bicycles produced in 2007: 900,000
Coastline: 1,793 kilometers
Major exports: textiles, port wine, over 50% of the worlds wine corks

Vote

2008-11-04T02:35:00.003-07:00

The world is watching...

Condo Livin’

2008-11-02T09:43:00.002-07:00

Day: 403
Faro to Albufeira

Time: 1:52:00
Distance: 32.0 km
Avg Speed: 17.1 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: N 37˚ 05’ 36.1”, E 08˚ 12’ 22.7”

“And there’s an immersion blender!” This exciting quote comes from Chris who was discovering the kitchen before he even got his bags in the door. Honestly, I’m not quite sure what you use an immersion blender for - I’m just the dishwasher.

We had a short ride today to Albufeira (Albu-fayra) and a one week rest. After almost 3,400 kilometers we are starting to experience the law of diminishing returns. I guess maybe your legs do get a bit tired after riding your bicycle for over a year. Ha ha.
Our new accommodation is quite a treat. We don’t have to cook, eat, and clean in the same room. We don’t have to watch tv from bed and… we have couches! Don’t get me wrong, all of our lodging has been very nice, but having all of this space is quite a luxury.
The agenda for the next week has little to nothing on it. We’ll need to plan the last part of our route and do laundry. Other than that we’ll probably just check out the area, get caught up with family and friends, and find the best cafe. There’s even talk of another scooter rental. I wonder what color helmets they have in Portugal…

Here’s to fractional ownership,
LK

Kenny and the Ninja

2008-11-01T02:37:00.003-06:00

Day: 402
Vila Real de Santo Antonia to Faro
Time: 3:43
Distance: 57.4 km
Avg Speed: 15.4 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: N 37˚ 01’ 9.1”, E 07˚ 56’ 14.5”

Last nights destination definitely won the longest name on the trip award. Most of the road signs just shortened it to VRS Antonio. I bet they would have to add a little bit of signage to get the whole lot on there. Most lodging in Portugal has provided breakfast and this morning was no exception. We thought we had really hit the jackpot when we found scrambled eggs to go along with the usual bread and coffee. We fueled up (I may have fueled up a little too much…I was really excited about the eggs) and got on the road just in time for the wind to pick up and the moisture to roll in. The moisture never really developed and we were able to dodge rain drops most of the day. We donned rain gear once, but it turned out to be a false alarm so all we did was sweat in it. The wind never really subsided and we encountered strong, steady headwinds most of the day. The riding was pretty mellow even though it was through coastal development most of the time. We even got caught in a traffic jam in a small town and being too wide to fit in between all the cars and the curb we had to wait our turn like everyone else. After we got through the traffic we stopped for a potty stop at McDonald’s. I now think that Leslie knows where they all are and times them for potty/lunch spots. We now have hit a McDonald’s in every Western European country. I am not sure if I should be bragging about that little feat. They do have them in Eastern Europe as well, we just managed to avoid the timing and temptation. We got to Faro shortly thereafter and staying true to our city experience we got lost. We finally found the lodging area of town and got settled in. It was Leslie’s turn to cook tonight so we headed out for a nice little dinner near our place. The national passion in Portugal is fish, so that is what we had. Leslie opted for prawns the size of my arm and I decided on Dorado the size of my face. Fully bloated but wanting more we ordered dessert and coffee. We think we got decaf-espressos with dinner, but I am pretty awake right now. It could be the sugar coma from dessert though. We head off to a week long break tomorrow and I think we are both looking forward to it. The coast here is beautiful and it is easy to see why it is so developed.
The title of the blog pertains to our Halloween outfits for today. See if you can tell who is Kenny and who is the Ninja. Happy Halloween (and Happy Birthday to me!!)!!!!!
CK

Intervals

2008-10-31T01:54:00.001-06:00

Day 401
Mertola to Vila Real de Santo Antonio
Time: 4:42:00
Distance: 66.3 km
Avg Speed: 14.1 kph
Terrain: Hills
Location: N 37˚ 11’ 36.9”, E 07˚ 25’ 14.4”

You know it’s going to be a long day when the first hour passes and you haven’t even hit 10 kilometers.

This morning we left Mertola by crossing the old town bridge over the Oeira River. We had stopped at the top of town to look for George but he must have had his coffee and moved on. It was really great to spend time with him last evening. The thing I’ll remember the most was his comment that “he is an explorer, not a sailor”. This comes from someone who has sailed across the Atlantic more than once.
I’ve developed a new saying on this trip – what goes down will almost certainly go up. Actually, I think it’s a new twist on an old favorite but it works better for what we’re doing. Since we started with a long downhill from town, I knew it was a bad sign. Sure enough, the first hill began immediately after the bridge crossing. We were destined to climb and descend for the rest of the ride. I joked to Chris that we probably wouldn’t have flat ground until we were right on the coast.
A favorite saying of Chris’ is “it’s all training, right?” He says it to remind us that we can never be satisfied with our preparation for some outdoor adventure. Today’s training would have been classified as intervals. Technically, one would involve a heart rate monitor in the official version of this type of training, but we can’t go fast enough to qualify for that. Instead, we just do a lot of shifting between the chain rings and cassette and wonder if the next ridgeline will be the last set of hills. Unfortunately, terrain like today’s was subject to the infinite curve of disappointment. Getting to the top of one hill usually just gave us a view of the mass of ridgelines ahead of us.
Gradually we worked our way down to the coast and a few kilometers of flat roads. We rolled into Vila Real de Santo Antonio by mid afternoon and didn’t feel too worked over. There was only one moment of distress when we turned in the direction of a hotel and saw the European Union border sign that said Espanha (Portuguese for Spain). Luckily the sign also said 1 KM. Neither of us planned to spend the night in a country we just came from. We laughed about it later – we’ve been in Portugal for four days and we’re still on the border with Spain.
Tomorrow we’ll dawn our Halloween costumes and hit the road going west. Yes that’s right, we are dressing up tomorrow. Don’t get too excited. We were going to construct some lavish costumes but we didn’t think that aluminum foil and wind would work very well on the bikes. Instead we’ve decided to use our existing wardrobe to fit the bill. Should be interesting…

Here’s to working those glutes,
LK

Hannah Brown

2008-10-31T01:51:00.001-06:00

Day: 400
Beja to Mertola
Time: 2:39
Distance: 51.6 km
Avg Speed: 19.5 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 37˚ 38’ 20.4”, E 07˚ 39’ 40.8”

We left Beja this morning with a whipping cold tail wind. I guess cold winds aren’t too bad as long as they are behind you. The riding took us from the hill top town, down to the plains and into the rolling woodland and farmland along the Guadiana River. Our riding took us along more cork oak and olive trees as well as several flocks of sheep being tended by their shepherds. The town of Mertola appeared as we rolled over the final hill. We were greeted by more white washed buildings and another castle. Part of the town sits in the walled part of the castle where several museums are situated.
Our little hotel host gave us the low down and told us what museums are the good ones, and that the cheapest museum ticket is a pass that can be bought at the local visitor’s center. We located the visitor’s center and that is where we met George. He recognized our American accents and we recognized his. We chatted briefly and found out that he had sailed his boat up the river and was moored down on the dock. He invited us for drinks at his boat and we agreed to meet later. Leslie and I checked out the castle, which was built on the old Moorish fort and then went onto the Moorish museum and the Roman museum. Mertola’s unique location near the end of the tidal flow of the river and close to farm and mining areas made it an important town on the trade routes. The Romans recognized this first and set up a settlement to take advantage of that strength. The Roman museum is housed in the basement of a municipal building here and the only requisite to see it is to make sure you shut the lights off when you leave. During excavation of the current building, ruins were discovered and instead of moving them, the builders constructed the building around them. We weren’t sure if we were in the right place when all we saw were offices and desks, but we eventually found it. Statues, columns, coins and tools all dating from as far back as the second century AD can be seen there. Very cool.
After some museum walking and a little snack break we headed down to the Hannah Brown docked on the river. George invited us in and showed us around his home for the past 12 years. The sail boat has been all around Europe, the Arctic, the Caribbean and the East Coast of the US. He had promised to take us to his favorite bar in town, but once we started talking, we never left his galley/bedroom/living room. He made us a great salad for dinner and we split a couple of bottles great Portuguese red wine. For dessert he busted out some homemade peanut butter spread over dark chocolate squares. The conversation was great and we grilled him with questions about life on a boat. I warned Leslie before we headed down that he was probably going to corrupt us. I was right, he did. Sailing for that long is probably as romantic as bike touring for several years (which he did as well), but once you make a life for yourself you just keep on living it. He is 67 years old and is pretty sure he will keep this way of life for a little while. He did say that he hasn’t been to some of his favorite places in over 20 years so maybe he will store the boat in Europe and go to the US for a year and tour. His company was well timed and we were sad to bid him farewell. We are going to try and meet him at his café in the morning, but if that fails we at least met another soul from the road.
Living the life we made
CK

Really Black Coffee

2008-10-28T15:16:00.001-06:00

Day 399
Beja Rest Day

We spent a very mellow rest day in Beja. Our lodging is quite comfortable so we weren’t in a rush to get up early this morning. Breakfast was our only appointment and you can bet we were on time. We’re always excited to see what new things are available to eat in a new country. Lucky for us, most everything was on the table and Chris was spared being the linguist guinea pig for one meal. The coffee was very essence-like and we immediately understood why the milk carafe was just as big as the one for java.
After breakfast we walked a few of the streets and visited the castle in the historic part of town. This part of southern Portugal has quite a long and exciting history from what we’ve read. You know how it goes; inhabited by Celtic people, renamed by Julius Cesar, then again by Augustus Cesar. The Visogoths and the Moors did their thing. Later, the Spanish came to fight the Portuguese and then Napolean wanted a piece of the action as well. Unfortunately, his crew massacred everyone in town. Today Beja is an important city of about 35,000 people.
The most interesting tidbit is the story of a series of love letters written in the 17th century by a Portuguese nun to a French cavalry officer. As the story goes, Sister Mariana Alcoforado saw the officer from her window and fell in love immediately. She then wrote him five passionate love letters. The original Portuguese version of the letters no longer exists, but were somehow translated into French and published in 1669. Despite a great debate of the authenticity of the letters, they were wildly popular. The word “portugaise” even became synonymous for “passionate love letter”.
Tomorrow we’re back on the road and headed south. The weather looks like rain and we’ll be digging out those warm and waterproof layers that we had in France. After 400 days on the road we just take it in stride. Hopefully some warm and sunny days are waiting for us in the Algarve.

Here’s to love at first sight,
LK

Dois not Douche

2008-10-27T15:33:00.002-06:00

Day: 398
Rosal de la Frontera, Spain to Beja, Portugal
Time: 3:59
Distance: 65.3 km
Avg Speed: 16.3 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: N 38˚ 00’ 46.1”, E 07˚ 51’ 45.8”

Spain pretty much shuts down on Sundays and when we rolled into Rosal de la Frontera yesterday, we knew that we would have to track down brekkie in the morning. The new time change helped us get out of bed earlier so we had a head start on the day. After packing up and checking out of the hostal we headed down to the little local bar for some tostada and café con leche. We sat down with the locals and enjoyed our toast and coffee and remarked on how we were seemingly the only non-locals in town. You could have cued the other cycle tourists right then. Two French guys rolled up for some refreshments and we made some small chit chat in our newest language Frepanglish (French, Spanish, and English). They had two days to travel 230 km and were anxious to get on the road. We let them get on there way and decided that we needed another cup of coffee before getting ourselves on the road. After a little more fuel we headed to the store for some road provisions. I figured out where all the little old men and little old ladies hang out in town like that. The men were all in the bar/café to gossip and the ladies were all in the store gossiping waiting for the fresh bread delivery. The store crew was nice and let me cut in front of the line so I could get on my way. They all just laughed when I answered them that I was 2 meters tall. Some things never change. On the road we had a quick 3 km to the Portuguese border, where we hit our 9th country in Europe and our 9th new language as well. Portuguese is a Latin based language, and shares a lot of words with Spanish. The pronunciation is completely different though. We were warned not to speak Spanish in Portugal, because the ‘Portuguese are not Spanish!’ I was a little nervous about slipping up and had done really well most of the day. I got caught up when I was trying to order a couple of beers this evening. Two in Portuguese is Dois (pronounced Doy-sh) and I asked for Douche beers instead. Leslie just started laughing at me as the waiter (who spoke English) quickly slipped away to grab our beers. All is well and we were able to get our bill with no further slip ups.
Here is your food for thought: 50% of the worlds wine corks come from Portugal.
Cheers
CK

Today Spain, Tomorrow Portugal

2008-10-27T15:30:00.002-06:00

Day 396
Calañas to Rosal de la Frontera
Time: 4:00:00
Distance: 57.6 kilometers
Avg Speed: 14.4 kph
Terrain: Hilly
Location: N 37˚ 58’ 3.21”, E 07˚ 13’ 15.04”

We got on the road a little earlier today. Any other day it would have been late, but we gained an hour during the night. Most of Europe is on daylight savings like the US and pushed their clocks back as well. I gave Chris a hard time for setting alarms and making us get up early – it’s a battle I will never win.
As we continued to work our way northwest toward Portugal, we also enjoyed more of the Spanish countryside. The morning was cool and we were greeted with the crisp fragrance of eucalyptus from the trees alongside the road. We didn’t see a single car for the first hour of the ride – it’s definitely a change from a week ago. As we pedaled along, the pavement rose and fell in front of us. I remarked to Chris that it looked like we were riding in Australia and it felt like we were in New Zealand.
In the 57 kilometers that we traveled, we only encountered one larger town in between our beginning point and our destination. Interestingly enough, the autonomous region we have been traveling through (Andalucia), is the most populated in Spain. We just
happened to have found the least populated area – surprise. Apparently riding through the urban areas of Barcelona and Seville sent us straight into the sticks. It’s actually a little strange to find a region with such wide open spaces. We haven’t encountered such a place since Croatia. Europe certainly has its fair share of cities, but so much of it is just endless agriculture and quaint villages.
So tonight we sleep on the frontier between Spain and Portugal. Upon arrival earlier in the day, we got to push our bikes through the bar to be stored in the dining room. It was good entertainment for the Sunday afternoon crowd. Later we got the favor returned when we witnessed a real life “wild west” moment. We were sipping our beers when two young men on horses passed by the front door, stopped, and signaled the bar keeper. The next thing we knew they had two cokes taken out to them. I guess horses aren’t allowed in the bar. Bicycles before equestrians? That’s a first.

Going from adios to adeus,
LK

Beer and Olives…Mmmm

2008-10-25T11:30:00.001-06:00

Day: 396
La Palma del Condado to Calañas
Time: 3:30:00
Distance: 48.4 km
Avg Speed: 13.8 kph
Terrain: Rolling to hilly
Location: N 37˚ 39’ 8.8”, E 06˚ 52’ 51.6”

Yesterday, one of the highlights was sitting in the bar with the after work crowd and having a few cañas of beer. A caña is a small beer served in a wine glass. The bar tender got us our ice cold Cruzcampos (the brand of beer in this region) and grabbed us a small plate of homemade olives. I had never had fresh homemade olives before, and I think I will find it hard to go back. Salty, oily and firm. No canned mushiness there. A couple of Euro for the round and we were set with our little bit of Spain.

We headed out of La Palma del Condado around 9:30 this morning and quickly got under way. We tweaked our route a little last night and shifted from really back roads to a diagonal road to a highway. The diagonal road fell under the really back road category, but we were at home riding among all the bird hunters and pig hunters going hither and yon. They even had signs on the road warning of the pigs and dogs running around. While on the diagonal we kept seeing mileages to our destination tomorrow that were much more favorable than the route we had planned. We were trying to connect bigger towns with the belief that those places would have hotels or hostals (bigger towns being a relative term). The route with the shorter distance went through a wide open area with very few town options. After asking the gas station attendant if there was lodging in Calañas and finding out there was we set off on another back road. The gas station attendant added that the road was ‘arriba, arriba’ (up, up) all the way, so we at least knew what to expect. The riding was pleasant as we wound our way through a massive mining area that seemed to evolve before the time of any environmental conscience. About 5 kilometers out of town we came to the ‘arriba’ that the guy was talking about. At the top we turned off to our place and were greeted with a glowing white town complete with a windmill and 16th century church. The buildings here are almost all white and look like they get painted yearly. We wondered around a bit and finally located the hostal we had heard about. It was deserted, but after some looking we found a number and called it. The owner interrupted his siesta and came over to let us in and give us a room. It is probably one of the nicest and cleanest hostals we have stayed at yet. The bonus is they have a vending machine that dispenses cold beers. A few euro for beers and some canned olives and we are back in the swing of things.
CK

Rambo and Solar Farms

2008-10-25T11:25:00.003-06:00

Day 395
Seville to La Palma del Condado
Time: 4:18:00
Distance: 68.7 km
Avg Speed: 15.9 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 37°21'N, 06° 38'W

Getting out of Seville proved to be another chapter in “how in the heck do we get out of this city?” As usual, the city bike path disappeared about the time the web of interstates appeared before us. This time we didn’t find the magic road to take us through the mess. After a boondoggle of about 5 kilometers we began retracing our steps back across one of the major rivers that runs through the Seville area. To our delight we spotted a recreation path along side the waterway. Unfortunately, we were about 40 feet above where we wanted to be. I was thinking we would have to ride back and connect with the road that lead to the path. At the same moment I was formulating my plan, Chris announced his “Well, I guess we’re going to have to Rambo it.” Isn’t it funny sometimes – the differences between men and women?
Finally back on track and heading west, we made some progress towards La Palma del Condado. There was no special reason for our selection of the town, just that it probably had a hostal and met our requirements for distance. Our plan takes us into central Portugal first before riding to the Algavre region in the south.
After lunch we finally left the urban sprawl behind and got into the beautiful rolling hills of western Andalucia. Plenty of citrus, olives, and solar farms dot the landscape. Surprised at the last item? We were too when we spotted the reflection of a major bank of solar panels from a pretty good distance. I can only attribute the unique reflection to a sunrise I witnessed on top of a mountain in Ecuador – it was mesmerizing.
Our rear ends were pretty sore by the time we rolled into La Palma. You’d think after almost 3,000 kilometers in Europe 5 days off wouldn’t be a big deal. We found the hostal, had a little rest, and then strolled the town. In the historic center we found a magnificent church – Saint John the Baptist. Awash in white with yellow trim and blue mosaic tiles, the structure towers above the surrounding streets. Chris read that it is one of the most important churches in western Andalucia.
Tomorrow we head north and into less traveled roads (at least we think). It will be nice to get out into the country again.

Hasta,
LK

Seville Tourist Day

2008-10-24T00:29:00.001-06:00

Day: 394
Time: All Morning

We slept way, way late this morning, but managed to roll out on the streets with everyone else. Stay up late, get up late works here, so we are happy to oblige. We were out of stove fuel (I forgot that when I bought it, we would be flying in 10 days) so we had a couple of croissants and some plums for breakfast. With no coffee we set out on the streets to take in the sites of this cool city. Our walk took us through the gardens at Alcazar, a residence of Moorish and Christian royalty starting in 913. The gardens have probably been updated since I don’t think they had plastic playground equipment back then. We took a turn out of the gardens and cruised through the old Jewish quarter in Barrio de Santa Cruz. It was great neighborhood to take in the morning sites of stores opening and cafés starting to buzz. Forgoing coffee at this point, we headed towards the cathedral (built on top of a former mosque from the Moors) and admired the vast open spaces inside. Christopher Columbus is supposedly buried here, but with construction and the throngs of people rolling in we managed to miss it. Recent research suggests that the tomb is actually Christopher’s son Diego and that the explorer is buried in the Caribbean. A little factoid for your next cocktail party. We worked our way out the back of the Cathedral fully entranced with Seville’s charm. This is when we usually let our guard down and today it happened to coincide with a couple of fortune tellers. I managed to keep mine at bay, but Leslie being in the moment got into hers and to make a long story short was lightened by a few Euros. Leslie was pretty upset by it all afterward, and was even more upset by the fact that she fell for it. I think that as savvy as we are, it is hard to be on the guard this many days in a row. It just sucked that getting approached and letting our guard down happened at the same time. Leslie attributed it partly due to no caffeine in her veins so we then holed up at a café for an hour and drank coffee until our hearts content. Fully alert and making light of the situation, we headed off to the river and the bull fighting ring. In front of the bull fighting ring is a statue of a famous bull fighter (can’t remember his name, not really important). We managed to arrive at the statue a few steps ahead of a tour bus group. I was standing in front of the statue when the guide backed into to me and tried to bully me out of the way; Leslie was standing on the statue taking picture of a reflection at the statues feet. She sensed what was going on and stayed there for several more minutes taking all kinds of pictures standing right on the statue’s stand. The tour group now has several pictures floating around of a famous bullfighter statue in Seville with Leslie’s butt in the air right next to him. Priceless timing. We managed to find a store for some more gas so we can properly fuel in the morning and got some groceries as well. Life is good and tomorrow we will began a roundabout journey towards Portugal.
Loving the full measure of life.
CK

The Trains and Planes in Spain are Sometimes a Pain

2008-10-22T12:17:00.003-06:00

Day: 393
Barcelona to Seville
Time: Seemed Like Forever
Distance: 1,000 kilometers or so
Avg Speed: Whatever a plane flies
Terrain: Air

Location: 37°23'N, 5°58'W

Today was a travel day and it involved most other forms of transportation other than our bicycles. It made me really appreciate how easy it is to travel by bicycle, not with a bicycle.
We bid Fernando an early morning farewell and rode in the direction of the train station. As I pedaled in the pre-dawn darkness, I reflected on how much I enjoyed our stay. I really hope to see our new friend sometime in the future. He opened his home to us and we are forever grateful.
We easily found the station as we had scoped it out a couple of days ago. That was the extent of our preparation for today and, let me tell you, it lead to one of our hardest travel days yet. Live and learn – one of my favorite sayings…
We managed to get on the first train with the early morning crowd and they like to hang out in the area reserved for bicycles, baby carriages, and handicapped spaces. As a result, we had to stand for the 25 minute ride into the city. Unfortunately, Chris tends to get motion sickness so we had to find him a seat before things got ugly.
The train change in Barcelona was pretty straightforward except for all of the steps in the maze of tunnels. I managed to take a pedal in the shin and didn’t do so well holding back the tears as we pushed and pulled the bikes around.
The third train brought us to the airport and a realization that our time was dwindling. We only had one hour and a half and didn’t have the bikes broken down. We were actually planning on just removing the pedals and turning the handle bars. Ha! How could we be so silly?
I selected a low cost airline for our flight and soon realized why they go out of business so quickly. We checked in and I was then directed to the ticket window to take care of the extra charges for baggage. As I was standing in line I noticed Chris having a very animated conversation with one of the airline agents. I realized that they were going to require us to package the bikes in some way. I got my receipt and ran after Chris as he pushed the bikes, now with front wheels removed, to the shrink-wrap station. Doesn’t sound like that big of a problem, right? Sadly, we were in terminal C and we had to go to terminal B.
The wrapping of our bicicletas was both frustrating and comical. I made the mistake of trying to hurry the three boys along and that ultimately slowed them down. Nothing like a rude American…
Back in terminal C we found our ticket agent and she directed us to the oversized x-ray machine. Did I mention we’re down to 30 minutes at this point? The nice security man apparently hadn’t ever x-ray bicycles before and spent a few too many minutes scratching his head before giving up.
But wait…there’s more.
Time to wheel the bikes down to baggage claim where we waiting some more. Luckily, the ticket agent ran to call the gate so we could be “those people” holding up the flight. Finally, a baggage person came and took the bikes. Whew.
The flight was uneventful – surprise.
We arrived in Seville and were greeted with rain. We collected our bags and bikes and headed for the café. The morning’s events hadn’t allowed for any breaks (including restroom stops) so we were pretty famished. We discussed our options and decided to avoid another wet ride into a big city. We stopped by the tourist office, reserved a room, and headed to the taxi stand.
Honestly, there was not a good chance that we would actually get a taxi into the city. Europe has not totally caught on to the SUV revolution. However, in a brief moment of luck, Chris spotted a Mercedes station wagon taxi and I sprinted to negotiate a ride. Five minutes later we had our gear packed in for the “special service” price of twice the going rate. We had been hemorrhaging money all day, so what was a few more euros?
Our driver more or less found the hostal and quickly liquidated his taxi. We payed him and then hauled our gear through the front door. Thirty seconds later, after we found out that the hostal didn’t want bicycles, I was back on the street in search of a room.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
So the end of the story is that we have a room, the bikes are with us, and we paid 10 extra euros to have it that way.

That is all,
LK

Supertramp Rules

2008-10-22T12:09:00.003-06:00

Day: 392
Sant Cugat to Barcelona
Time: Tapas Time
Distance: Not Far
Avg Speed: 150 kph
Terrain: Highway

We all rolled out of bed around the same time this morning. Fernando had been missing his workouts with work and visitors so he excused himself and ran to the gym for a good sweat. Leslie and I decided that we had better get ourselves in gear while we had time and got our things situated to travel and send home. When Fernando got home we all walked into town to mail our camping gear home. We struck out in France with camping, and most of the campgrounds we had seen in Spain were closed as well. We were glad to see that our camping gear weighed in at 10 kg, that is until the mail lady told us how much it would be to send home. The slow boat was fine with us and now we are a little lighter with our loads. We hit the store for a little lunch and then cruised on back home where Fernando whipped up some vittles. We were in full Spain time mode so after lunch we all relaxed with naps and TV. Leslie and I also received our ballots via fax and took care of voting. We had to set it up before we left the US, but it was pretty painless and now we can say we did something when we wave our righteous finger. Around 8:30 we decided that we wanted tapas for dinner. Fernando had taken us to a great little tapas joint in Barcelona a few days earlier, so we just headed on back there. We all loaded into his little Peugeot, dropped the top, cranked the tunes and rolled through the night. Tapas was a lot more involved tonight where we sampled 10 different yummies (pimientos padron, patatas bravas, bocadillo con chorizo y queso, mini hamberguesas, bacon y queso, langostina con brocheta, solomillo, montadito jamon, tortilla patatas, and finally crema catalana). It was great to go with someone who knew what was good, and what stuff was called. Sadly we were only able to sample 1/10 of the menu. After tapas we loaded back in the car, dropped the top and sang eighties tunes on the radio the whole way back to Sant Cugat. At one point I looked in the back seat and watched Leslie singing Jefferson Starship at the top of her lungs (with her eyes closed). The crowning moment was when “Give a Little Bit” by Supertramp came on and we all belted it out. It was a very fun last night in Barcelona.
Hasta luego
CK

The Way Tapas Was Meant to Be

2008-10-19T14:06:00.003-06:00

Day 390
Barcelona City Tour

If you recall, we had a “tapas incident” way back in Slovakia on day 324. Chris had purchased some cured meat from Spain for the rock bottom price of $2 and we spent the next day resting in close proximity to a bathroom. Today we redeemed ourselves by going to a lively establishment in the heart of Barcelona. With the help of our friend Fernando, we enjoyed a “real” tapas experience.

We’re slowly changing our schedule to match the up late, sleep in culture of Spain. After breakfast at 11:30 we did some laundry and then headed into the city. We had our personal (and very gracious) tour guide driving us toward a very exciting afternoon in Barcelona. We had a few sights we wanted to see and were otherwise open to whatever Fernando could think of.
Barcelona is a city of over 1.5 million and is the second largest city in Spain. It covers just over 100 sq kilometers and is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea on the southeast and the Collserola mountain range on the northwest. It’s the kind of city that looks very overwhelming from the outside. Fortunately, it is more than welcoming once you’re inside.
Aside from it being one of Europe’s principal ports and an important economic center, Barcelona has a rich history in the arts. One of the major attractions we wanted to see today was La Famalia Sagrada, a church that started construction in 1882 and is still not finished today. The structure was designed by the legendary artist, Antonio Gaudi. For forty years he worked on the project, even devoting the last 15 years of his life to it. It’s really hard to describe La Familia. If you know anything about Gaudi you know that his work was…unique.
Anyway, I should back up and describe the rest of the afternoon. Before we got to La Famalia Sagrada we had already seen some of the other highlights of Barcelona. Fernando was a most excellent host and guided us through the historical, cultural, and gastronomical aspects of the city. Memorable moments include the bustling, tree lined Las Ramblas and seafood paella with views of the ocean.
Our tour concluded with grand views from El Castell Montjunic (Castle Montjunic). Overlooking the ocean on one side and the city on the other, we were able to piece together our different stops on our personalized tour. It was a fitting end to a fantastic day.

LK

Day 389: Badalona to Sant Cugat

2008-10-19T02:58:00.001-06:00

Time: 2:00
Distance: 24.5 km
Avg Speed: 12.25 kph
Terrain: Rolling cityscape
Location: N 41° 28' 0", E 2° 5' 0"

We had a short ride to a good destination today. The only thing that stood in our way was the bustling metropolis of Barcelona. A friend of ours lives north of town and was kind enough to offer us a bed and a shower for a few days. We couldn’t pass that offer up, so we left our little hostal under the cover of rain and clouds. Riding in the rain isn’t our favorite way to travel, but when you can get a home cooked meal the goal outweighs the journey. Getting through town was not as straightforward as we thought and we stalled out a bit running into one-way streets, hills reminiscent of San Francisco, and highways that didn’t allow bikes. We eventually wound our way to a river and got on a recreation path that took us in the direction we wanted to go. A few more correct guesses and we were like rolling wet blankets heading towards the town of Sant Cugat. Our friend, Fernando, gave us his address and with Leslie’s sense of direction (with the help of google maps) we got within a couple blocks before I broke out the cell phone for help on the final approach. We found the place easy enough and before we knew it we had cold beers in our hands and a hot meal in our bellies. A little wine and some little Spanish pastries rounded off our meal before we turned in for a little afternoon nap. Our host’s graciousness and thoughtfulness quickly made our experience of the wet city dash become a distant memory. We will spend a couple of days here taking care of some business, making Fernando play tour guide and resting up before venturing further south towards Seville.

Smelly like a wet dog,
CK

The Past, the Future, and Life In Between

2008-10-18T08:42:00.002-06:00

Day 388
Blanes to Badalona (Barcelona)
Time: 3:38:00
Distance: 60.2 km
Avg Speed: 16.5 kph
Terrain: Endless Roundabouts
Location: N 41˚ 27’ 3.9”, E 2˚ 15’ 3.0”

Riding a bicycle over the last thirteen months has allowed me a lot of time to reflect on the process of living a life. Before departing to New Zealand, I didn’t really know how my own life would change, just that it would. I figured it was 50/50 that I would want to return to life as it was or branch off into something totally different. Obviously, the only way to figure it out was to turn the pedals and see the result.
I’m not really sure what the outcome will be but I have figured out one thing. I think life is a constant struggle between the past holding us back and the future pulling us forward. The moment when these two actions cancel each other out is when we become suspended in the present. It is when we become immersed in the moment and nothing else is happening.
Today I had one such moment at a random rest stop on the side of the highway. Upon pulling off the road we saw a walkway leading down through a tunnel to the ocean. It was a passageway through the pavement above. It also turned out to be a portal into the space between the past and future, and the present. All morning I had been thinking about the miles we have traveled and the kilometers we still have ahead. Now, in a matter of a few seconds, all of those thoughts disappeared. I was infused with the scenes around me; a man solo climbing with his dog watching below, the sun radiating through the clouds, dancing above the grey sparkling waters of the Mediterranean. I had no worries, no wants, and no thoughts. I was completely in the moment in the world around me.
I know the scene was a strange combination in an unlikely location, but it was so cool and I was totally snapped out of my focus on the past and the future. It made me realize that it doesn’t matter what we have done or what we will do. We’ll just keep pedaling and every once in awhile life will make us stop and live.

LK

Day 386: Girona to Blanes

2008-10-16T11:55:00.003-06:00

Time: 3:36
Distance: 54.2 kph
Avg Speed: 15.1
Terrain: Hilly
Location: N 41° 40' 51", E 2° 48' 28"

I awoke to church bells this morning. The 6 am bells went off and I lazed in bed until the 7 am bells before waking Leslie. The sunrise isn’t until a little before 8:00, so getting out of bed and off to the races hasn’t been a huge priority. We finally got up and had some coffee to clear our heads. These shorter days aren’t any easier to get ready for. I think in some ways they are harder since we don’t put our heads down and ride. We take our time, take pictures, and when we get to where we are going, we usually check out the sites. Both of our legs are sore today from walking a couple hours yesterday. Sad isn’t it.
The ride out of Girona was pretty straight forward and once again Leslie led the charge. A couple of big roundabouts later and we were on the open road. I think we ride through at least a half a dozen roundabouts a day. Our biggest one yet was a three laner outside of Perpignan. We operate on the go, point, go principle. We go as hard as we can to get in it, point where we are going, and go as hard as we can to get out of it. The bigger ones, or the ones we go all the way around in can be tiring. Once we got out of Girona we got into farm country where there were several pig farms to flavor the air. Luckily we only were exposed for a couple of kilometers before we rode out of it. We had several little climbs up and over the coastal range and just like that we were on the Costa Brava of Spain. The Costa Brava is the coastline along the state of Catalonia.
The riding along the coast started out with more hills, but after a half hour or so we descended into the developed cityscape of Lloret de mar. We stopped on the outskirts to enjoy peanut butter sandwiches at a playground. Playgrounds are some of our favorite places to stop to eat. They always have benches, most of time shade and most of the time water. Today we just got benches, but I guess beggars can’t be choosers. It was only another 8 km to Blanes so we joined the tour buses and headed south. We found a nice hostal on the north end of town and proceeded to lounge the rest of the day. In Spain, or for that matter most of South America there are hotels, hostals, hostels and pensions. All are rooms for rent, but they all vary tremendously in value. We stayed at a hotel in Figueres where we had a great big room at a little price. We stayed at a pension in Girona (in old town) where we had a little room, with tons of charm and a little price. Today’s hostal is a big room on the outskirts of town for our biggest price yet in Spain. One of these days we will get the lodging thing figured out.
CK

Girona

2008-10-16T11:52:00.002-06:00

Day 385
Figueres to Girona
Time: 2:38:00
Distance: 39.7
Avg Speed: 15.08
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 41°59′04″N 02°49′16″E

With another four days until we need to be in Barcelona, we are riding some shorter days. Today’s goal was Girona just 40 kilometers down the road from Figueres. We got one of the latest starts of the trip – 10:45 am. Our mothers would think that we had wasted half the day.
Our route stuck to the N-11 and even though it parallels A7, a major interstate, we were passed constantly by semi trucks. Fortunately, we had a very wide shoulder and brand new pavement to pedal on. You can bet that we will be finding some minor roads now that we’ve made it to Girona.
Chris found us a room with lots of character in the old part of the city. When I say character, I mean low price and age of the building. No problem – it’s only for one night. We didn’t waste any time getting our bags up to the second floor of the building and unpacked. The city has a rich history and I wanted to get out and see it. For the rest of the afternoon we wandered randomly through the streets. I snapped a boat load of photos while Chris did a lot of window shopping.
The most interesting part of the city was the Jewish Quarter, otherwise known as the Call. The Jewish community lived there until 1492 when they were expelled by the rulers of Spain. They lived in harmony together but still apart from the other citizens of Girona. After navigating the maze of cobblestone streets and alleys of the Call, Chris and I had a very enlightening visit to the Museu d’Historia dels Jueus (Jewish History Museum). We learned about the history, culture, and traditions of Jewish communities in southern Europe. We also lingered in the green space outside the building and contemplated the complex questions raised from our visit.
Tomorrow we’ll change direction and head toward the ocean and the Costa Brava. Hopefully we’ll find awesome views and less traffic.

Hasta Jueves,
LK

Teatre Museu Dali

2008-10-14T13:49:00.001-06:00

Day: 380
Perpignan to Figueres
Time: 3:39:00
Distance: 63.3
Avg Speed: 17.3
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 42° 16' 0 N, 2° 58' 0 E

We got out of town pretty easily today. Leslie gave Perpignan the karate kick and kung-fu chop and got us out painlessly. Her navigation skills are awe inspiring. The highway was pretty busy, but the going was easy as we headed south towards Spain. We rode for just under two hours when we spotted our new favorite French restaurant…McDonald’s. A large fry and a large coke helped to fuel us along up the pass to the border. One note on border towns. They are all the same, whether in seaside ports or highway ports, SEEDY.
We crested the pass and rolled into our 8th country of the Euro tour. It was seemingly all downhill as we pedaled into Figueres. It is a nice little town away from the border whose claim to fame is the Salvador Dali Museum. The museum is situated in the former Municipal Theatre that was destroyed at the end of the Spanish Civil War. Dali chose this sight ‘first because I am an eminently theatrical painter; second because the Theatre is in front of the church where I was baptized and third, because it was precisely in the lobby of the Theatre that I had my first exhibition of paintings’. He took this space and made it the ‘largest surrealistic object in the world’.
His works and info on the museum can be found here (http://www.salvador-dali.org/). The imagination, texture and I guess surrealism (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surrealism) that he portrayed in his works was mesmerizing. It is one of the coolest and unique museums that I have ever been to.
Not wanting to leave the roll of a full bore tourist, we decided to eat dinner out, rather than cook in. We have now gone to Spain and eaten paella. Good stuff.
All for now.
Hasta luego
CK

50 Ways to Leave Your Lover

2008-10-12T13:17:00.003-06:00

Day 383
Beziers to Pepignan
Time: 5:52:00
Distance: 104 km
Avg Speed: 17.7 kph
Terrain: Flat
Location: N 42 41' 55", 2 53' 44" E

This was Chris’ song selection for the day. He loves to sing and typically has some tune going. After a quick break to get groceries this morning, we got back on the road toward Perpignan. Chris sang a few lines of the Paul Simon classic and I joined right in. I think I was at “just drop off the key Lee and get yourself free” when I actually realized what song he was singing. “Should I be worried?” I asked Chris. He laughed hard and said “no, that was the song playing in the supermarket”. Then we spent the next 10 km or so figuring out ways we could have given each other the slip in the last year. Here are the top three:
-While getting off the train at the station, get off the train with your bike and panniers and make sure the other person will be held up by all the other people getting off the train
-Buy two plane tickets, 1 one-way and 1 return. Don’t tell the one-way about the return
-Send him out for groceries and then switch hotel rooms (This actually happened in Slovakia. He found me anyway.)

In an attempt to get closer to Spain, we had another long day. The terrain was flat again and even though the wind had changed, it was still helped us pedal along. The day was rather dark with thick cloud cover and a few rain sprinkles. I changed my sunglasses to orange lenses more for my psyche than vision. I have a tendency to struggle on days without sun.
At kilometer 85 we found ourselves in the vicinity of another sightseeing opportunity and decided to take it. Just off the highway was the Forteresse de Salses. It is the beautifully preserved Catalan fortress built in the 15th century. Apparently, the design was very innovative for the time and represented a transition between medieval castles and modern fortresses. The castle is definitely a departure from the buildings we’ve seen so far in Europe. I’m guessing we’re in for more captivating architecture as we venture onto the Iberian Peninsula.
Tomorrow we’ll spend a well earned rest day getting organized for Spain and Portugal. With just over six weeks until we return to the US, we should have ample time to explore the region in depth.

Hop on the bus Gus,
LK

Day 382: Lunel to Beziers

2008-10-11T12:15:00.003-06:00

Time: 5:35
Distance: 103.4 km
Avg Speed: 18.8 kph
Terrain: Flat
Location: N 43˚ 19’ 45.5”, E 03˚ 17’ 18.0”

I had ideas for all kinds of titles today, but we saw and encountered so many different things it was hard to sum up. We headed out with some warm temps and our friendly little tail wind pushing us along. The going was really straight forward as we got out of Lunel and tried to stay south of Montpellier. We have gotten a little weird about staying out side of cities, so much in fact that we spent today in circuitous avoidance of them. They seem to suck us in and spit us out only after they have had their way with us. Right out of town today we started hearing gun shots coming from the fields. This was a first for us in France, and as much as I can figure it was the first day of dove season. We rode a little ways and had to take a roadside pitstop. I took care of my business and right as Leslie was taking care of hers a little old farmer came strolling out of nowhere with a little satchel and an ancient double barrel shotgun. So much for privacy on the side of the road. We got back underway and saw our first Tour de France street art. If you have watched the Tour you will have noticed that fans paint all over the roads with drawings and sayings. Today we rode over a giant bicycle painted across both lanes of traffic. As soon as we saw it, we both new what it was. It was a little faded, but pretty neat nonetheless. We had a little over an hour under our belts when we got to a big shopping area in a suburb of Montpellier. We were low on cooking gas and I had seen some signs for sporting goods stores. We turned into the first parking lot and came face to face with our friend: McDonald’s. It was still early so we stepped right up and got a petit dejeuner of an Egg McMuffin and a Coke. Egg McMuffin is the same in English as it is in French. After snarfing some calories we hit all the sports stores and the mall and came up empty handed. Our next goal was to get to the coast. Remember, I said circuitous. We made good time and arrived in the port town of Sete. We finally made it to the Mediterranean and were greeted by clear skies, blue water and boats, boats and more boats. From little dinghies, to barges to giant cruise ships. It was a hopping little place, with the traffic to prove it. We ate lunch here before setting off across a 13km narrow sand spit. We had a nice bike path for half of it, the other half we shared with cars and RV’s. It was nice to have those sparkling blue waters to our left the whole way. After the spit we saw that we had another 32km to our desired destination for the night. It was time to put our heads down, but not until we had another Coke and some refills on our water. We also got sucked into cooking gas shopping some more. No Dice. We did make it with daylight to spare and now are eating everything in the food bag. Hopefully the stores are open on Sunday.
Au revoir
CK

Pont du Gard

2008-10-11T12:10:00.001-06:00

Day 381
Bagnols s Ceze to Lunel
Time: 5:04:00
Distance: 89.6 km
Avg Speed: 17.7 kph
Terrain: Flat

We’re back in the swing of things - two days in a row on the road. We also got back to eating our own breakfast rather than the hotel’s. The euro/dollar ratio is getting better but it’s still not in our favor. For the first time in over a week we started under a bluebird sky and warm temperatures.
Our route continued south and the tailwind made the short hills a little easier. We said goodbye to the Rhone River and headed towards the Gard River. Before riding on toward Nimes, we took a detour to another World Heritage site. I don’t know how many of these protected areas we’ve seen on our tour, but I think there has been one in almost every country.
Today we had the opportunity to visit the Pont du Gard. We’ve viewed this impressive structure during the Tour de France on television. It’s even more spectacular in person. The monument is also very beautiful in its simplicity. Part of a 50 kilometer long aqueduct system built by the Romans, the pont (bridge in French) took three years to build and employed 800-1,000 people. Each block of stone was cut to fit perfectly as no mortar was used in the construction. The bridge is three levels high with the top level being the water conduit. Today it is possible to tour this level which measures 6’ high by 4’ wide. The entire system supplied water to the Roman city of Nemausus (now Nimes) at a rate of 5 million gallons per day.
I think it’s good that we visited the site in October. The Pont du Gard is one of France’s top five tourist attractions and sees over 1.4 million visitors a year.
The landscape changed as we left the Gard River area and rode closer to Nimes. The small little villages were there, just overshadowed by urban development. Every once in awhile we would spot a church steeple or a clock tower.
By mid afternoon we were pedaling in shirt sleeves and taking advantage of the tailwind. No reason to stop early if your traveling over 20 kilometers per hour. It’s nice to feel like you’re not pedaling. We almost made 90 km by the time we found a hotel. We can’t seem to break away from the comfort of a bed with an attached bathroom. Maybe we’ll see about a campground tomorrow…maybe.

Happy Friday,
LK

Back Out There

2008-10-09T11:59:00.002-06:00

Day: 380
Rochemaure to Bagnols Sur Ceze
Time: 3:07
Distance: 55.5 km
Avg Speed: 17.8 kph
Terrain: Flat to rolling
Location: N 44˚ 09’ 57.1”, E 04˚ 36’ 58.0”

We left our little haven this morning and rolled out under dark, wet skies. I forgot the cable lock in the parking lot, so I got to roll out twice. The dark skies lightened up the further south we got, and our tailwind picked up a bit. We made good time through the countryside and got to our destination early afternoon. We could have gone further today, but lodging choices have been slim in France and we have been trying to stay in bigger towns. We passed several campgrounds as well today, but true to the trend they were closed. I am beginning to think of the tent on the back of my bike as an anchor.
Leslie wrote a very good blog today concerning the need to vote for the environment. She did stop short of endorsing anyone, but you could probably get a real good idea who it would be if you checked out the League of Conservation Voters website (www.lcv.org). The website lists the voting records for the candidates as well as other members of our government. Yes it is green, yes it is ‘liberal’, and yes the angle is slanted. Everything you read, hear and see these days is the same. Being out in the world we are able to see the news that everyone else is interested in. The past several weeks has seen a shift from the big OPEC vote that went down to the big goat turd of an economic mess the world is in right now. We have forgotten about Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maslow's_hierarchy_of_needs). It isn’t about the price of gas (FYI, it is €1.44/liter here…do the math), it isn’t about the retirement fund that took a dump (it did everywhere, for everyone), it is about what kind of world we make for ourselves and leave for the future generations. If we remove the bottom of the pyramid, it really doesn’t matter what is above it. Do we need to revert to a Gilligan’s Island lifestyle? No, but we need to at least be aware of what we are doing and how that creates turbulence in the world around us. Positive actions or negative actions all have reactions in the world.
I guess Leslie’s little rant brought one on that I had been thinking of. You can tell that we have been holed up for a couple of days and needed to get moving again. I can’t promise that we won’t write and more diatribes, but if we do we will warn you at the beginning so you can skip them over.
Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.
More travel, less drivel.
CK

Vote the Environment…And Save the Roadless Areas

2008-10-09T11:47:00.003-06:00

I’ve been waiting for the opportunity to speak my mind about the upcoming political election. I won’t propose a candidate to vote for, but I will implore you to ponder one of my most important issues. The environment is at the top of my list, period. One of my favorite quotes about the environment comes from David Brower. He said “There is no business to be done on a dead planet.” Think about it. I have and I believe it trumps every other issue on the table.
Now you’re probably thinking I’m one of those left-wing, bicycle commuting, organic food eating, Chaco wearing, righteous thirty-somethings, right? Probably, but who cares. I care about the world, this big blue ball that we live on. It provides the air we breathe, the water we drink, and the food we eat. It sustains life and without it we have nothing, we are nothing.
Whoa! Where did this come from you ask? Well, as you know, I have a lot of time to think while riding my bicycle. As I pedal I think about a lot of things – food, where we’re going to sleep, what I’m going to do when we return, and most recently, who will be the next administration in the White House. At some point I wanted to put something on the blog and I wanted it to be well said and get your attention.
Today is the day my friends. When we arrived in Bagnols Sur Ceze ( a little town in southern France) and checked email, I knew it was time.
We received an action alert from IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association) about Colorado Roadless Areas. The USFS is currently proposing a new management plan. The new plan will not be as strong in protecting roadless areas as compared to the original 2001 plan. I’ve spent a lot of time in these places and I feel strongly about keeping them sans roads. I won’t go into the lengthy details, but I will throw out a few facts. First, there are nine miles of roads in the National Forests for every one mile of highway in the US. Second, should the management plan change in Colorado, places like Kenosha Pass, Rabbit Ears Pass, Crested Butte, and Hermosa Creek will suffer the consequences.
So now I’ve got to bring it all together. When you vote next month, on the first Tuesday in November, think about more than your taxes, healthcare, and the war in Iraq. Think about fall colors, powder days, and when the flowers bloom in the spring. Think about the taste of a fresh tomato from the garden, the smell in the air after a summer rain, and how much you love to ride your favorite trail. Think about the environment and then vote.

Raising my righteous finger in the air,
LK

Resources and ways to take action:
2008 Presidential Election
League of Conservation Voters
Vote the Environment

Roadless Rule
Colorado Roadless Areas Action Alert
Video from Outdoor Alliance

Living La Vida Local

2008-10-08T12:53:00.000-06:00

Day 379
Rochemaure

We were supposed to get back on the road today but instead we are still in Rochemaure. The rains started during the night, and while it is not the Biblical type of deluge, the constant downpour has been enough to delay another day.
Rest days are a mixed blessing for us. On one hand we have a chance to rest, recover, and catch up with whatever. We usually try to call family, catch up on the internet, and eat. At some point we reach the slippery slope and rest days become long and unwanted. Our muscles start to recover, we spend too much money, and we start to worry about getting behind or getting to the planned end.
Today could have been one of those not so positive days. I caught my mind wandering early and decided to follow a different thought path. Who cares if it takes longer to warm up tomorrow or if we have a little less money than we planned when we get home? Furthermore, no one is going to give us a bad grade or not give us a raise if we don’t follow our original route or timeline. It’s amazing how ingrained my previous life is sometimes. It’s not a bad thing, just an observation. I realize that this journey is a special opportunity that may never present itself again. I look forward to all of the experiences that we will have from now until we fly home from Spain.
I did manage to have a conversation in French today. It was short and the other person was not Chris. I’m sure the woman at the post office knew that I wasn’t local, but I was proud of myself for trying to be one. One thing is for sure – I would really like to become fluent in some language in the future.
So we will try again tomorrow. If not, we’ll just live la vida local for one more day.

LK

Sick Day From the Office

2008-10-07T13:33:00.002-06:00

Day: 378
Rochemaure Day 2

I decided to take one more day off the bike. I didn’t feel too spicy yesterday, so I opted for another day. I think deep down I needed more French TV.
Here is the rundown of what I have watched today. Keep in mind that it is dubbed over in French.
Knight Rider (or K2000 according to this TV) twice actually
Magnum PI
Several French films which I enjoyed watching, but didn’t really get. One of them I am sure I wouldn’t have even got with sub-titles.
One French-Canadian film with European French subtitles. Evidently there is that much of a difference. I actually got this one and really liked it. It is called C.R.A.Z.Y. if you can find it with English sub-titles.
The rest of the time I just surfed.
We did get out and visit the local chateau. I think it was built in the 13th century (my reading comprehension of French isn’t so good) atop a volcanic dyke that runs parallel to the river. It overlooks the town and offers expansive views of the Rhone River Valley.

While killing time today I did find a program on Yahoo called the Purple Pedal Program. It is a contest for these purple bikes that are outfitted with GPS, and cameras and solar chargers. I suggest you track it down and check it out. Leslie thought I should enclose my application.
Enjoy
CK

Pedaling, whether it is purple or not, has been my life this past year. My sole purpose (with my significant other of course) has been to ride my bicycle throughout the world. No cars... no problem. Bad weather...put on another jacket. Too hot...take off some clothes (careful with that one). Documenting my daily rounds throughout the front range of Colorado would be a great way to further the cause of pedal power, not petrol power!! Showing people that it is possible to get anything and everything with a bike is not only what I would be able to do; it is what I was made to do. Solar powered purple pedal montsters unite to carry out this global education program. I CAN BE (and should be) A SOLAR POWERED PURPLE PEDAL MONSTER BECAUSE I ALREADY AM ONE (my bike just happens to be green).
Cheers

Le Rhone a Velo

2008-10-05T13:45:00.003-06:00

Days 373-375
La Frette to Rochemaure
Time: 3:24:00 and 4:36:00
Distance: 60.0 km and 78.5 km
Avg Speed: 17.7 kph and 16.9 kph
Terrain: Flat
Location: N 48.58, E 4.70

We’ve ridden two of the last three days and have made our way back to the Rhone River. The weather has been a little rainy, partly sunny and crisp (more like cold). It’s kind of like New Zealand a year ago. Luckily the wind hasn’t been too much of a problem. I probably shouldn’t have even mentioned that…
Our last couple of days has been pretty mellow – we’ve just been putting our heads down and riding. On the flats we are able to move a pretty good distance in a day. At this point in the year we’re just trying to get south and hope that the weather warms up a bit. Camping is really not a possibility in this area and it hasn’t been too hard to get a room. As we get closer to Spain we might get a chance to have some more time in the tent. I think we’re both pretty indifferent this close to the end. When you get to 100 nights of camping you stop keeping track.
Despite the chill in the air, we’ve been enjoying the landscapes. The countryside has been beautiful throughout Europe and France’s version has its own unique character. The Rhone has become quite wide and placid now since Switzerland. Apparently it has not always been that way and this grand river has been tamed over time. Once filled with obstacles, the character of the Rhone has been altered by humans. Today it is the source of 1/3 of France’s electricity. Before this “control of nature” pre-19th century passengers traveled in vessels pulled by horses, men or sails. They often times carried painted crosses with religious symbols as good omens on their journey. Although we travel on land, I think we can understand the concept of keeping yourself safe on a journey through a wild environment.
We’ll have another rest day tomorrow. Chris has developed a cold and we want to avoid any sort of respiratory infection. Our new digs are pretty comfortable and Chris has been brushing up on his French by watching the dubbed version of Knight Rider.

Here’s to the power of water,
LK

Welcome to France…We are Closed

2008-10-05T13:42:00.001-06:00

Day: 372
Lavours to La Frette
Time: 5:20
Distance: 81.8 km
Avg Speed: 15.3 kph
Terrain: Flat to Rolling
Location: N 45 23 24.5, E 5 21 41.6

I tried to get Leslie to use this title last night, but she had a better one. It seems that most campgrounds and small hotels are closed for the season on this leg of our trip. We aren’t sure what the future will bring.
I had an idea for a good French sitcom today while riding. Picture an elderly couple who run a small out of the way hotel in the beautiful French countryside. She doesn’t speak a word of English (or for that matter does he). He has had a stroke and watches old American Westerns with French voice overs and keeps the volume way up. They have major shouting matches in front of their guests, but despite it all they seem to have a very loving relationship. They have three dogs, two of whom are old and decrepit and the third barks and snarls at everything. Each episode would be featured around different guests that stay at the hotel. The first episode would be about two cycle tourists that come bumbling along half bonked out of their minds.
Ok, ok, it really isn’t an idea, it is real life for us right now. She is super nice and he is really nice and chatty. She made us dinner tonight. We thought it would just be soup and bread, but it turned into a four course dinner. We started with soup, then had bread and fresh tomatoes, then had pan fried burger patties and penne pasta and followed it all up with a vanilla rum custard and wafer cookie. It was farm food at its best, but it hit the spot. We can now retire for the evening with full stomachs.
I replaced another piece of gear today. Our little stove lighter finally died so I popped into the local tobacco shop to pick up a new Bic. I had a couple of choices that ranged from colors to American country western stars. I was about to buy a Merle Haggard lighter and then I saw the lighter series to end all lighter series. Le Tour de France. I was so excited to get a TDF official cigarette lighter that I could hardly stand in line to pay for it. So I stole it. Just kidding, I bought it and Leslie captured my enthusiasm on film.
We are looking forward to breakfast to see what little morsels she busts out for us.
CK

Continental Drift

2008-10-01T13:40:00.001-06:00

Day 372
Geneva, Switzerland to Lavours, France
Time: 4:52:00
Distance: 78.5
Avg Speed: 16.2
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 45˚ 49’ 0.33” N, 5˚ 46’ 58.11” E

Continental Drift is defined as “a theory that explains the formation, alteration, and extremely slow movement of the continents across the Earth's crust. The continents are thought to have been formed from one large landmass that split, drifted apart, and in places collided again.”
Today we changed the definition to: a theory that explains the route formation, route alternation, and extremely slow pedaling of the Kehmeiers across Europe…
Our departure from Switzerland was slow. The days are shorter, the mornings colder, and we didn’t find any good bike route maps to find the best way into France. We did, however, find a good road map. I procrastinated until this morning to line out a descent route. Really, I was just hoping to find enough bicycle lanes to get us into France and onto the country roads. It worked – sort of. We zig zagged through Geneva while trying to avoid major thoroughfares. We stopped many times to consult the map. The rest of the time I relied on my internal compass.
By late morning we were on the outskirts of the city and quickly approaching the border. We had some Swiss Francs to burn and decided to spend the money with a café stop. We found a little cafeteria next to the supermarket and proceeded directly to the dessert and coffee zone. After paying for the slices of carrot cake torte and café au laits, Chris announced “we can go through the line two more times!”
After the second trip through Chris decided it might be better to spend the money on future sustenance and wandered off to the store. Meanwhile, I had a delightful conversation with a Swiss couple. The man struck up a conversation with me in French. When I asked him if he spoke English he said no and continued talking. He said “English?” I said “No, United States.” He stumbled backwards in amazement as he looked at our bicycles outside the window. I then explained to him where we had traveled from and he just shook his head. About that time his wife sidled up next to him. He repeated my story (in French of course), her eyes lit up, and she then continued the conversation. We actually chatted for quite some time. I learned that she knew of some other folks that had done some bicycle touring and that she once met another man who was taller than Chris. It’s amazing what you can figure out with some voice inflections, hand gestures and a few key words.
So now we are in France. The transition was pretty seamless as there were no border agents and the language is still the same. We’re still traveling through the lovely countryside and the Rhone River is still our guide. I’m sure there are other similarities, but there are also some big differences. France is over ten times the size of Switzerland and it is Western Europe’s largest country. It’s definitely not land locked and borders the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. France also boasts the highest peak in Europe -Mont Blanc at 4,807 m. The multi-cultured French number over 60 million. According to statistics, they are moving into the suburbs and rural areas and away from the Paris region.
We’ll be “drifting” south toward Perpignan and the border of Spain. We should get a good feel for this country’s passion and beauty.

Vive la France,
LK

Geneva Rest Day

2008-09-30T12:29:00.001-06:00

Day: 371

Due to us sleeping in separate rooms last night and us being able to get a twin room tonight, we had to check out, so we could check back in. The hostel is set up for that sort of thing so we stashed our pile of stuff in some lockers, got on our only clean clothes, and washed all of our dirty ones. My only clean clothes happened to be my swim trunks and a short sleeve button down. Leslie was a little more fortunate with her swim suit, some shorts and long sleeve button down. I am sure we looked like a bunch of freaks hanging out in the laundry room waiting for the dinger to go off. Our laundry finally finished doing its thing so we got back on some less conspicuous attire and rolled out onto the town for a little sight seeing and some shopping. On the agenda was some warmer clothing, and some trinkets to send home. Our warmer clothing was a slam dunk, but the trinkets for home were a little more interesting. We wanted to send home 2 kg of chocolate and when we got to the window at the Suisse Post we were informed we couldn’t send any food. I about fainted thinking that we would have to haul around all that chocolate. We wouldn’t have hauled it around, but I would have had a belly ache the whole time. We finally got on the same page as the postal clerk and figured that the chocolate was ok, but that we could only send a max of 2 kg in a box. The rest of the goods would have to find another way home. We got a second box and filled it up. Going to the post office is always exciting. I prefer Eastern Europe and Asian post offices. They don’t care what you are mailing as long as it isn’t going to blow up or get them arrested. You got the money honey, they got the time.
After are errands we hit our new favorite Swiss eatery…McDonald’s. We each have theories on why we crave it now and again while on the road, but never while at home. Leslie’s has to do with chemicals in the food keep bringing us back, and mine has to do with deep seeded psychological misgivings about the globalization of food and its impacts on the greater good of man. I think that Leslie is right though.
We are off to France tomorrow. Back to the land of the Euro.
CK

Cracked Rim, Part Deux

2008-09-30T12:26:00.002-06:00

Day 370
Nyon to Geneva
Time: 1:20:00
Distance: 25.0 km
Avg Speed:
Terrain: Bicycle lane
Location: N 46 12 54.9, E 006,08 45.1

It happened once and we thought it was a fluke. It happened again and we’re pretty sure it’s operator error.

The remaining 25 kilometers or so into Geneva from Nyon was very smooth and straightforward. We decided to skip the guidebook’s route and stick to the highway. Why? The highway was equipped with a designated bicycle lane on either side. Even as we entered the city, the bicycle lanes continued in all directions. It was great.
We headed straight for the city hostel and found that they only had two beds left. They weren’t together so we opted to find the information center. There we found a list of expensive hotels and a booking fee. I quickly called the hostel – we could manage to bunk with others for a night or two. After a quick lunch (yes, it was McDonald’s again) we found the bike shop. Unfortunately, we got there just in time for the mid day break. We rolled our bikes down to the plaza and set up camp for an hour or so. I worked on more bicycling photos while Chris procured some sweets. It was interesting to watch the mix of people filter through the area. From professionals to beer guzzling nomads, we saw it all.
At 2pm we pushed our bikes back down to the Hot Point Bicycle store. It had a true bike shop feel. They deal in Specialized, Rocky Mountain, and Ibis, so we felt right at home. I was in need of a new rear wheel as mine has suffered the same fate as Chris’ did in Laos.
In retrospect, I would have heeded DT Swiss’ information when Chris got his new rim. The warranty folks mentioned that pannier weight and tire pressure could have contributed to his failed wheel. I guess it’s an “I told you so” moment. We won’t be soliciting DT Swiss for new equipment this time.
I first felt the bubble while braking in Croatia. We inspected the rim and couldn’t find anything. The problem seemed to go away but then returned the same day Chris had his crash. Coincidently, we put air in the tires on both of these days. The light bulb still didn’t go on until Chris was replacing my brake pads and found the flare. Bummer – a new wheel was necessary. Live and learn I guess. After the crash, I’m not really willing to see how long the wheel would last.
Anyway, the Hot Point shop was awesome. They had a new wheel built in a matter of hours. I now have a shiny new Alex Rims Adventurer – what an appropriate name.

True wheels still rolling,
LK