Otago Anniversary

I looked on the calendar this morning and noticed that today is Otago Anniversary. Otago is a region on the South Island of New Zealand where we spent a lot of time during our bicycle tour. One of our favorite adventures was the Otago Rail Trail. We figured that it was an area that not many travelers found their way through. For us, it was a very 'authentic' experience.

The map below is our route on the Otago Rail Trail. Each point on the map links to a blog for that day.

By the way - Otago Anniversary celebrates the day that Scottish explorers landed at Port Chalmers, the major port for the city of Dunedin.


View Larger Map

Have fun,
LK

Beyond the 45th Parallel

Day 40
Franz Josef to Queenstown
Location: 45 1’ 43.9” S, 168 38’ 37.2” E
Distance: 395 kilometers

On a map the world is divided into meridians and parallels, otherwise known as longitude and latitude. Some of these lines are pretty significant, but all of them help to define locations all across the globe. Since we started this campervan tour we have covered a lot of ground and today we crossed the 45th parallel. We’re now half way between the Equator and the South Pole. It’s hard to picture these invisible lines as you travel around. Thank goodness we have signs to point these things out. I’m hoping there’s a chance that we might make it to the most southern point of NZ…we’ll see.
I think our drive today should have been named “A Tale of Two Countries”. We started on the west “wet” coast in mist and rain. When we arrived in Queenstown it was partly cloudy and in the low 70s. We got a geography lesson about the lee and windward regions of an island firsthand.
We got into Queenstown a bit later today. The landscape here is very impressive. We are surrounded by mountains and it looks a little bit like Colorado. Tomorrow is a catch up day and we’ll probably do some laundry and shopping around town. Tuesday we will be whisked away on the “BBQ Bus” to see one of the most famous areas of New Zealand – Milford Sound.
Cheers,
LK

Super Truckers and Ferries

11.1.07
Wellington to Blenheim


We left Wellington this morning to catch the vehicle/cargo ferry to the south island. The trip from Wellington Harbor took us about 3 hours across Cook Strait before they dropped us off at the ferry terminal in Picton. The ferry we took was designed to hold 1600 passengers, 600 cars, and had 1780 lane meters for trailer and campervan transfer. We were loaded on the same decks with all of the semi trucks heading to the south island. Not a whole lot of room to move around on the parking decks, but the ferry workers know how to load a boat. The ferry was, needless to say huge. The ship measured 181 meters long, 23 meters wide and had 10 decks for vehicles, people and equipment.
I wanted to drive the RV on the ferry this morning and was a little nervous. We had to be ready to load at 7:20 am for a departure time of 8:20 am. We left the campsite around 6:45 and ate breakfast in the ferry parking line. As soon as I finished breakfast I climbed back in the driver seat to see what was going on. Not too long later the truck in front of me was heading aboard. We were all safe and snug by 7:30 and were able to get front row recliner seats to watch the ship motor along.
When we got into Picton we expected it to take an hour to unload the ferry. In actuality we were off the ferry within 10 minutes of her docking. Like I said, those ferry workers are good.
The area we are staying in tonight has over 100 wineries. They produce mainly white wines along with a Pinot Noir. The Sauvignon Blanc and the Riesling are especially good. We were able to do a couple of winery tours this afternoon and take part in some of the excellent drink. One of the wineries we visited also had a small boutique brewery where they brew a couple of different types of beers. This living on the road is pretty tough business.
See you later
CK

The Top of New Zealand

10.15.2007
Cape Reinga/Ninety Mile Beach Tour

Today was a milestone for us. We took a bus tour to Cape Reinga, the (almost) northernmost point in New Zealand. This is the one place that has been on every itinerary we’ve planned. The view from the lighthouse was spectacular, one of the most impressive I’ve seen. The wind added to the wild nature of the setting where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. Aside from the significance of the location, Cape Reinga has spiritual importance to the Maoris. They believe that when a person dies, their spirit departs the earth from “Te Rerenga-Wairua”.
After lunch at a scenic bay, the bus headed back by way of Ninety Mile Beach. Talk about crazy, the bus did 63 kilometers on the hard-packed sand at about 90 kilometers per hour. They drive the same wherever they go – FAST. The tour buses travel together in groups of two and take care when crossing freshwater streams. They also avoid the two hours on either side of high tide. Apparently, some vehicles have gotten stuck and been swallowed by the sand in the past.
The beach itself is quite pristine. On our right we had the Tasman Sea and on our left we had the Aupouri Forest. At 75 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide, this area is the second largest man made forest in New Zealand. In addition to establishing the forest, the Department of Conservation also enhanced the dunes protecting the beach as well as a buffer zone in between. It seemed a bit surreal to be viewing the entire landscape from a gas powered bus.
LK

Tears of Sorrow - Hihi Beach to Waipapakauri

Distance 50.45 k

Time: 4:09:00

Avg Speed: 12.1 k

Terrain: Wind

10.14.2007
We spent last night at a great little beach area in Doubtless Bay. We had our first stormy night in the tent with rain and strong winds. Our tent held up great and so did we. We did end up sleeping with earplugs to drown out the wind. A few days ago I decided that I was going to start carrying less food. I planned on carrying about a days worth of meals and just buying food when we pulled into the town near our camp. Yesterday morning on our way out of town I remembered that we didn’t have any dinners and only enough breakfast for one of us. I figured we would just get something in Hihi. When we pulled into Hihi I asked the campground manager if there was a store nearby. He replied “Manganui”. Leslie asked if there was a café nearby. “the whole lot is in Manganui” he answered. Well the problem was Manganui was 10 kilometers on way and we had just ridden 60+. We must of looked like whipped puppies because the camp manager offered to drive us into town when he took his daughter into work. He saved the day.
I didn’t learn my lesson though and ended up in Waipapakauri with one dinner and one breakfast. The closest store is again 10 kilometers away and we had fought wind all day. Neither one of us was too keen on running back into town for some grub. We checked into the camp and the host remarked that they were roasting a lamb for Sunday supper and that we needed to buy our tickets before six to get into dinner. I thought I had died and gone to heaven. It didn’t matter how much it was for the “Lamb Smorgasbord”, I was going to pay it. I decided to take care of business first and take a shower (it had been a few days) then the tickets to the bonanza. I ran over to the office around 3:30 to get the tickets and the host looked at me like she had just ran over my dog. “I just sold the last tickets…sorry”. I could have cried. Dinner ended up being cream of chicken with noodles and even though it wasn’t the Lamb I smiled about as I showered and shaved it was $50 cheaper.
You snooze you lose…and then you cry.
CK

Day 18 Kerikeri to Hihi Beach

Distance: 62.38k

Time: 4:20:52

Avg Speed 14.3k

Terrain: Rolling

Tonight I sit writing in the camp kitchen. The wind and rain are howling outside. We decided to brave it in a tent this evening. We just finished dinner and are waiting for the rain to let up before going back to the tent. We will see just how weather-proof it is.
We seem to be the only people staying at this “motor camp” tonight. We have all of the facilities to ourselves. The campgrounds here are very nice and well equipped. There is usually at least a common kitchen and bathhouse. The better kitchens provide pots and pans, place settings and utensils. It’s a very affordable way to vacation. Our favorite so far was Matakohe. They had a kitchen/family room setup with couches and a tv– it was quite enjoyable.
The setting here is wonderful – it’s right on the beach. We’re hoping the weather will clear by morning so that we can soak in the surroundings a bit before heading off again. We are now in the Doubtless Bay area, getting very close to the cape. The name comes from a journey that Captain Cook made here. As his ship passed by he remarked that it was “doubtless a bay”. Maybe he thought he’d have a better time in Russell…
The ride today went well. We covered a lot of ground and the riding seemed to be a bit easier. I think we’re finally getting in shape. We’re hoping to continue north one more day and then rest a couple of days. I would really like to see Cape Reinga. We will be signing up for a tour since we won’t have time to ride there and back before having to be in Auckland ten days from now.
LK

Day 16 Russell

Location: 35 15 40.9 S 174 7 33.7 E

Here is the first bit of news: After two weeks and three internet cafes, I have finally downloaded and watched the CSI season premiere. Call it persistence or call it obsession; I’m not ashamed to say that I feel some accomplishment in getting it done. Now I know that I’m still two weeks behind, but you have to start somewhere…
We spent another day in Russell. The rain finally came last evening, but cleared by morning. There was a beautiful rainbow above the bay during breakfast. We decided to move out to the campground and back into the tent. The budget needs some help right now.
After breakfast we took the ferry back to Paihia and walked to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. As I mentioned the other day, it is the location where the Waitangi Treaty was signed in 1840. Basically, the Treaty allowed New Zealand to become a sovereign (independent) nation where Maoris and non-Maoris could work and live together as one. Before the Treaty, there was a lot of chaos in the land they called Aotearoa. The Maori tribes were fighting amongst themselves and more conflicts arose as the Europeans began to discover the area. Russell, for instance, was known as the “hell hole of the Pacific” in the early 1800s. In an effort to bring peace and protection and to avoid governance by other European nations, the British drafted a treaty that would protect the Maori and give them equal rights as citizens under the British Empire. After great debate amongst the Maori tribes, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed on February 6, 1840. The Treaty then traveled the country and many other Maori chiefs added their signatures. Some parts of the Treaty are still debated to this day, but as a whole, the document essentially created the nation of New Zealand.
The Treaty Grounds were very nice and hold some interesting buildings and artifacts related to the history that took place there. We visited the original house that was used by British officials, a Maori meeting house, and building that housed a traditional Maori war canoe. The canoe, “waka” in Maori, was 35 meters long and requires a minimum of 76 people to paddle the boat safely.
We’re really glad we took the time to visit and get a foundation for how the nation of New Zealand began.
LK

Day 17 Russell to Kerikeri

Distance: 28.21k
Time: 2:09:46
Avg Speed 13.0kph
Terrain: Rolling

Today was a typical day in the Northland of New Zealand. We started out in sun and ended with a nice little headwind. Evidently there is more to come. The low pressure systems have been lined up to take a whack at us and here comes number 3. We did finally meet with some other cycle tourists in Russell. One was a man traveling solo heading north. He was on a bit of mission since he was not phased by the weather earlier in the week. The other was a woman from Switzerland who was on her way back south. She had been where we are heading and was enjoying the benefits of the wind that has been taunting us the past week. She commented that it was hard cycling all the time since you are always exposed to the elements. Her words have rang true so far. We were commiserating tonight at the fact that after even only 30 kilometers into the wind we are just wiped out. We set the tent up when we got to camp, had a sandwich (pb and honey—no tuna today!!) and took a little nap before heading into town to go see the oldest buildings in New Zealand. The oldest European buildings I guess. A store and missionary’s house were built in Kerikeri in the 1820’s and served the incoming sailors and the Maori. You could get a blanket for the price of a pig and musket for the price of eight pigs. We then ran to the market for a dinner of salad and pull apart cheese and bacon bread. I guess it dangerous to shop while you are hungry, but it sure does taste good.
Adios.
CK

Day 14 Zig Zagging

Dargaville to Russell
Distance: 130 km
Time: 5 hours
Location: 35 15’40.9”S, 174 07’33.7”E

Today we cheated and rode two buses and a ferry to our next destination. We are once again trying to stay one step ahead of the weather…only time will tell. We packed up quickly this morning in Dargaville and caught the first bus to Whangarei. A few hours later we rode the Northliner to Paihia. From there, we rolled our bikes onto the ferry. We’re now happy to be in Russell, a beautiful ocean town in the Bay of Islands.
The Bay of Islands is a frequent stop on the tourist track, about 240 km northeast of Auckland. With 150 plus islands, the area is known for its sailing, dolphin swimming and bay cruises. Fortunately, development has stayed on the mainland and the islands are very natural.
The Bay of Islands also holds a great deal of historical significance. It is where European colonization started in New Zealand and it is also the place where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed in 1840. I plan to share more on this after we have a chance to visit the Waitangi Reserve.
You might have noticed some of the names of places in New Zealand are not easy to pronounce. Our language lessons have been taken from the back of our Lonely Planet guide and listening closely to people through conversations. Many names are Maori, which is closely related to the Polynesian language. So far, it hasn’t been too hard to say the vowel combinations. It’s the special double consonants that are a bit confusing. For instance, “wh” is really pronounced as an “f”. So, Whangarei would be pronounced “Fanga-rye”. Between the Maori names and the Kiwi accent, we have been fully immersed in the culture here.
LK

Day 13 Matakohe to Dargaville

Location: 35 52’17.4”S, 173 57’25.8”E
Distance: 44.29km
Time: 3:19:53
Avg Speed: 13.2kph

Terrain: Flat

We got off of our rest day just fine in Matakohe. We rode about 10 kilometers of hills before we reached the famed flats of the Wairoa River. The ladies at the information center in Warkworth told us that “it was flat as Holland there.” Needless to say we were licking our chops with anticipation of some flats and the hope of having a daily average speed above 12 kph. We crested the final hill before we descended into the flat land and that is when the wind picked up. To make a long story short we rode into a horrendous head wind all day and struggled to go the 44 kilometers to Dargaville. We were pleasantly surprised that we did bump our average speed up to 13.2 kph today. We were bummed out that our flat day still turned into a nice ride with a “bag full of cats.”
When we got into Dargaville we found out that the head wind we had been enjoying all day was pushing in a new round of rain storms. We spent the afternoon checking buses and weather conditions in order to get to Whangarei and eventually Paihia. If the weather holds out we will ride to Whangarei and then take a bus on Wednesday to Paihia. If we wake up to rain we will ride into Dargaville and catch the 7:30 am bus to Whangarei and then the afternoon bus to Paihia.
I think that we are pretty decent at changing our plans depending on conditions, but the first couple of weeks have been nothing but changes. I equated it to walking a tight rope all the time and always adjusting our balance. Right now it feels like we are out of balance. Hopefully that tight rope turns into a board and it will be a little easier to have a bit of balance and flow again. We shall see what tomorrow throws at us.
Until next time.
CK

And the horse won by three lengths…

Rest Day in Matakohe

We spent our rest day doing a few different activities. Unlike our first rest day, we actually had energy to get out and do things. This morning we camped out in front of the tele with the rest of the guests to watch World Cup rugby. New Zealand and France were facing of in a quarterfinal. The All Blacks took an early lead but a huge penalty haunted them in the second half. France took advantage and ended up winning. Now New Zealand is a nation in mourning. We’ll root for Fiji next…
By mid-morning we were off to the Kauri Museum which features the history of the kauri tree and gum industry of the 19th century. Kauri trees are quite amazing and rival redwoods in their size. The museum featured every aspect of the industry, including a working sawmill. The life of a kauri bushman back in the day was quite hard compared to the present. Today, the last remaining kauri forests are protected and we will be riding through the biggest area in a couple of days. We should get a chance to see the two trees that are currently the oldest, have the greatest volume and largest diameter.
The rest of the day was spent chatting with a very nice couple from Australia. They live in Portland, Victoria and are here on holiday in a campervan. They gave us the scoop on the road north (surprise – more hills) and told us funny stories about their other travel adventures. The conversation was actually quite extensive and we talked about everything from politics to funny family stories. They even shared that they had recently bought a stake in a horse; and the horse was supposed to run today. They didn’t really know much about horses and didn’t have much faith in their investment. I’m glad that they could share a little bit of their life with us – it was nice to have an ordinary conversation. So far, the topics have revolved around a person’s route through the country and the condition of the roads. Anyway, after going our separate ways for the evening, we found out later that “the horse won by three lengths!”
LK

Day 1 - Arrival in Auckland

We arrived safely in Auckland, New Zealand yesterday about 5 am. The flight was smooth and our entry through immigration and customs had a few bumps. The immigration official wasn’t too sure about our 6 month visa without a permanent address. She asked “where are you going to stay?” to which we replied “in a tent”. She looked at us like we were a bit crazy. We had to declare a few items in our luggage for customs – we didn’t want to take a chance with any fines. They have very strict bio-security regulations here since New Zealand has an island ecosystem. In the end, they took our Honey Stinger energy gels (because the main ingredient is honey) and closely inspected our tent.
We decided to book a motel room the first couple of nights so that we could get ourselves together before starting out. After we settled in by 10:30 am, we assembled the bikes. We had completed the bikes by about 12:30pm and realized that we needed to get out and about. We didn’t dare go to sleep even though we were getting tired. So, figured out the bus system and schedule and headed into the city center of Auckland. We spent the afternoon walking around looking for some more detailed maps of the North Island. The bus ride back was long and uneventful and we tucked ourselves into bed about 7:30pm. Thursday we will spend getting supplies and find a route out of Auckland.

New Zealand Info
Population: 4.1 million people, 39.3 million sheep
Area: 268,680 sq kilometers, about the size of Colorado

Number of international visitors in 2005: 2.4 million
Number of wineries: 463 (2004)

1,000 Saturdays

We’ve decided to give our trip a subtitle – 1,000 Saturdays. The idea came from a random conversation with our friends in Vail. We were all hanging out on a Thursday night and one of our friends said "I feel like tomorrow is Saturday". I smiled and added "Now everyday is Saturday for us". And so it goes…

We have been busy in the first couple of weeks of being jobless. It seems that much of our time has been spent cleaning, sorting and organizing. We underestimated the amount of "stuff" we needed to store in Denver. It’s amazing how much two people can acquire over 12 years of being together. There have many more trips to Goodwill than expected. At times it has been difficult to decide what to keep since we will be gone for 2+ years. You really begin to realize what you "need" to live.

The transition to the Bicycle Geography life has been interesting. You would think that being footloose would be a piece of cake. For the most part, it’s been great but we’re still working from a plan and sticking to a schedule. Most recently, we’ve been working on routes in New Zealand and Australia and we’re in the process of procuring a solar panel to run our electronics. Most importantly, the bikes are almost complete and we’re looking forward to going on some mini-tours before we leave in September.

And yes, we’ve been getting out on our bikes. It’s hard to top the riding in Eagle County, but we have been enjoying the urban trails in Denver. The singlespeeds have been out quite a few times in Bear Creek Lake Park – a nice oasis on the west side of Denver.