Where the Mountains Meet the Sea

Days 341 and 342
Gospic to Novalja (Pag) to Ražanac
Time: 8:37:00
Distance: 128.3 kilometers
Avg Speed: 15.0 kph
Terrain: Mountains to Dry Rolling Hills
Location: N 44˚ 17’ 1.9”, E 15˚ 20’ 34”

I’ve been a few places in the world where the mountains rise up from the sea. Yesterday we rode through one such landscape.

We started out from Gospić with a good breakfast in our bellies. The buffet was not spectacular but had a welcome sight – eggs. Chris worked over the fried variety while I picked the shells off of a few hardboiled. Our soup and pedaling diet probably hasn’t provided enough protein.
The juevos were still with us as we started our arduous grind up the leeward side of the Dinaric Alps. Beyond the rugged mountain range lays the Adriatic Sea. I was feeling good in the morning air, looking forward to a dramatic change of scenery at the top. My daydream was short lived as the road turned from asphalt to gravel. The pavement had been torn up from shoulder to shoulder and our route suddenly became a real challenge. I had a little trouble bouncing around and had to walk about half of the 2km section. Chris waited for me at the transition back to asphalt and we made the pass in no time. The sea was not yet in sight but we enjoyed fabulous views of the surrounding peaks.
A tunnel finally brought us to the view we had been waiting for – the blue waters of the Adriatic Sea. I was definitely giddy and we found a nice lunch spot to sit and contemplate our latest accomplishment. We had finally made it to the coast!
The next phase of the ride took us to the bottom of the road and then north along the water. Our goal for the day was to get to the island of Pag. The journey would require a ferry crossing so we didn’t waste any time getting to the dock. As we pedaled along the shore we could see Pag and noticed right away that it was barren and rocky. If you didn’t know where you were, you might have thought you we in southern Utah.
We found the docks without incident and pushed out bikes aboard the boat. As we motored across the shimmering water, I remarked to Chris that we had now traveled by just about every means (bicycle, plane, train, bus, boat).
Our accommodation for the evening was an “autocamp” aka giant campground. The cost was a bit steep but we had very clean facilities and wireless internet. We made a few calls home and then settled in for a restful sleep.
Today we traveled through a desolate landscape. The white stone against the blue waters made for endless contrasting views. Life looks to be a little rough in places - I’m sure the dry nature of the land accounts for that. One of the highlights of the day was stopping at a roadside stand for paśki sir (Pag cheese). It’s said to be one of the things that makes this island special. The woman who runs the stand is most definitely a true professional. I ordered 200 grams of cheese and she was able to whack off the exact amount from the wheel. I just laughed when she put it on the scale and it read 200 – not a gram more or less.
We’re camped again tonight – this time in a smaller venue. The host (who doesn’t speak English) was amazed that we were riding our bikes. He was also taken aback when he realized we were from the US. Not sure if it was our mode of transportation or just that we are gringos in Croatia. Anyway, he insisted that we have a glass of wine as a welcome drink. Not a bad way to end a beautiful day of riding.

Here’s to sleepy little towns on the Adriatic Coast,
LK

The Reason for No Free Camping in Croatia

Day 339
Rastovaca to Gospic
Time: 4:39:00
Distance: 70.3 kilometers
Avg Speed: 15.1
Terrain: Remote Hills
Location: 44˚ 33’ 9.5” N, 15˚ 22’ 26.8” E

Today we rode through the most remote part of Croatia yet. At the end of the day we found out why.

After some route planning last evening we decided to stick to the major highway system and head south to Gospic. After the off-road adventure we had a few days ago and the mountain range that lay ahead, we figured that it would be easier to deal with some traffic rather than endless kilometers of unpaved roads.
The first 20 km or so continued through the peaceful forests surrounding Plitvicke National Park. It was a great way to start the day. We pedaled a gradual uphill for most of the distance and then had a short descent into the town of Korenica. There we stopped for the best cheap cappuccino I’ve ever had. For $1 I got a real cup of coffee, different than the other cups I’ve had for the same price. They usually come out of a machine labeled “Nescafe”.
After the much needed caffeination, we started up the big climb of the day. Our map labeled the pass at 980 meters – we were starting at 650. By the time we stopped for lunch we had completed a very steady climb, but nothing too hard. Chris pulled over at a concrete structure and I reminded him of the landmine threat. He said that the floor was entirely concrete and that it was actually a well with a collection gallery behind it. We had a little picnic and enjoyed the solitude. The ride from Korenica had been very quiet – hardly any traffic and we encountered little development along the way. Most of the structures we passed were abandoned or suffered some destruction (probably from the Balkan conflict).
We reached the town of Gospic just about an hour and a half later. We passed a few more landmine warning signs, similar to the one we saw a few days ago. We found the town center and go acquainted with a nearby ATM machine and the town map. I also found another map – this one stopped me in my tracks. It was a map of the landmine zones of the region. As I studied further, I realized that we had traveled through dangerous territory for the entire day. In fact, we had essentially been sitting in the middle of a landmine area while eating our lunch.
As soon as we checked into our hotel and got the computer up and running, I quickly went to work researching the landmine dangers of Croatia. What I found gave me chills.
Between 1.5 and 2 million landmines were laid on the front lines by both sides of the Balkan conflict. 8% of Croatia’s land area has been affected by these destructive weapons. We have been traveling through this region for four days now – we’ve only seen three signs along our route. As I read later, the lack of signs may be due to the quest for balance between providing information and developing successful tourism. Thankfully the universe directed to the safest pee spots and photo viewpoints. Others, almost all Croatians, have not been so lucky. Over 400 people have died and another 1,300+ were wounded between 1998 and 2006. The Croatian government has been dedicated to demining, but doesn’t expect the country to be “mine-safe” until 2009. For more information on the landmine issues see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minefields_in_Croatia

On a lighter note: Chris and I have secured the most interesting hotel room of the trip. The highlight is the shower with a built-in radio. Chris got to sing the 80’s hit from Top Gun, “Take My Breath Away” while I belted out a slew of classic alternative tracks. Good thing we had unlimited hot water…

Thankful for my place in the universe,
LK