Happy New Year 2009

The Cleanest Line: Patagonia Blog Post

I shared our Bicycle Geography adventure with the folks at Patagonia. They kindly posted the blog today. You can read the post here.

Enjoy!

LK

Peace on Earth

Happy Holidays from the Kehmeiers. Be Well.

The Final Podcasts...For Now Anyway

Here they are - the "end of trip" thoughts. For the podcasts, visit our website: http://bicyclegeography.googlepages.com/

What does it mean to you to have traveled around the world by bicycle?

LK: It means that Chris and I made a commitment to each other and a common goal, and then set out to accomplish it. We took a journey together, doing something we love. It means that anyone has the ability to have dreams and follow them.

CK: For me it means that I did something unique. Others have done it, others have gone bigger, and faster, but no one else did the way that Leslie and I did it. I think that our way and our style spoke volumes about how we like to interact, travel and live.

What is it like, a month on, to be back in the United States?

LK: From a personal perspective - it’s been really good and, sometimes, really hard. Life changed a lot for us while it didn’t change much at home. I’m kind of easing back into things. Right now, I’m working on some of my creative business ideas.
From a national perspective – the economy is dominating both the news and our personal conversations. I’m still trying to it figure out.

CK: Being back for a month now, I am finally starting to feel settled. I find that I am restless for several hours during the day, but as soon as I find a job that will take care of that.

What’s next?

LK: Still sorting it out. I thought I had a pretty good plan in my mind while we were still in Europe but I find myself not wanted to rush into anything. Luckily, we have a very supportive family…

Short term – Starting a GIS consulting business. Making maps is what I did before life on a bicycle and I think it’s a profession to continue. I’m also getting myself out there in the photography world. To that end, we’re both jonesin’ to get outside this winter to enjoy a season we missed last year. I’m anxious to get my crampons and ice tools out. Finally, I think Chris and I both are interested in talking to people about our journey so we’ll probably put together a good presentation and slide show.
Long Term – Haven’t given up on the idea of still traveling. Bicycle travel is a wonderful to see the world – probably just closer the home.
I would also like to write a book about our journey. I envision it as something that’s part journal, part geography text book. I really like the “live, learn, ride” motto that we came up with as we were pedaling. It definitely has potential.

CK: I see us doing some domestic traveling throughout the west by bicycle. I would really like to ride the Colorado Trail from Denver to Durango or the continental divide trail Colorado north.

Do you think you’ve changed? If so, how?

LK: Most certainly. I think my perspective on how I’d like to live my life has changed. I just read an article in Outside Magazine about Kelly Slater, the surfer. His comments - “I’ve heard that motivation is temporary and inspiration is permanent…I’m trying to have an inspired career, to live an inspired life.” I think it sums up how I feel now. I feel very inspired, my creativity is flowing and I understand limits as boundaries not obstacles.

CK: I do think I've changed. I find that I take notice of details now. Slowing our lives to a crawl taught us to take it all in, and the details of things really started to stand out.

Favorite Country, Best Food?

LK: Tie between Laos and Croatia.
Laos – noodle soup, morning glory, laap

CK: Laos

Tapas in Spain, or street stall noodle soup in Laos.

Best and worst day on the bike?

LK: Worst – Chris’ wreck in Switzerland. I don’t think about death very often. I did that day.
Best – Almost everyday on the bicycle was great. If I have to pick one it would have been day 125 on the Great Ocean Road. I just remember that the pedaling was easy and the views were spectacular. It was one of those days that I knew exactly why I had decided to bicycle around the world.

CK: It will sound weird, but they were the same day. It was when I wrecked in Switzerland. The trauma of the accident was a huge drain on my body and on my psyche. What happened after the accident was a culmination of all things that I was finding out about the world. The kindness of strangers, the beauty of the landscape, the magic in day to day life. It was just such a contrast of things that I think both tend to stand out.

So, is this the end? No way - Bicycle Geography will keep pedaling - we just don't know where yet...

Stay Tuned!

A New Bicycle

I think new is a relative term when it comes to my new bicycle. Chris is been working his fingers to the bone – literally. He’s found a winter project; he’ll be refinishing my 1973 Montgomery Ward Open Road. I bought it a garage sale last summer at a house down the street from my parents. I think the orange, yellow, and brown colors are actually back in style. I contemplated keeping it in original condition but I really want an American Flyer. I want a bicycle that would be worthy of riding in the Crested Butte 4th of July parade. I want stars, stripes, and sparkly grips.
Chris informed me that he’s really looking forward “creating” – the removal of paint currently is, and I quote, “the sucky part”. The actual design has been a secret and I’m looking forward to the result. I think there might even be a custom seat involved.

I’ll keep you posted,
LK

More Cork

We're not in Portugal anymore but that doesn't mean we can't talk about cork. As you know, we were fascinated by the cork forests as we rode through the southwestern part of the Iberian Peninsula. After a few blog posts about our observations, we recieved a comment from a company called Wicanders Flooring. They are in the business of cork and were interested in acquiring any photos we had from our travels through the Montado forests. Wicanders has their own blog with a very good purpose:

"The Wicanders blog is about using cork oak to help benefit the world’s health, wellbeing, and socioeconomic development. As the industry leader in cork oak flooring, we are proud to actively participate in the exchange of ideas about health and sustainability, promote green building practices, and preserve the Montado cork oak forests."

We sent some shots their way and were excited to see that they've been posted on the Wicanders blog. You can view the post here. Scroll down below the "Wineopoly" graphic to see our photos.

LK

Reentry

It’s harder than I thought it would be. I was talking with a friend today and she had a great perspective. She said that it’s hard to notice how busy and stressful life is when you’re home living it. It’s an entirely different story when you return to it after a long break. I totally agree. I think I’m trying to figure out how to balance what I’ve learned on the road with what I didn’t need from the past. I’d like to keep the best parts of who I was and mix them with the person I am now.

So far reentry has been a blessing and a curse. In three weeks I’ve done the following analysis:
Family and Friends
Up - we have been able to catch up with most everyone. It feels really good to interact, share, and sleep in familiar places.
Down - Traveling in the car. For now, it’s a necessary evil.
Clothes
Up - I feel like a have an entirely new wardrobe.
Down – Too many choices; there is laundry everywhere.
Employment
Up – A chance to do something creative.
Down – Do I want a “grown-up” job again?

Despite the roller coaster of emotions, I realize that I am living life. Furthermore, I’m living it as I imagined. It’s real, it’s intense, and ultimately, it’s inspired. We can’t experience the highs without the lows, the exceptional without the ordinary. I think I’m facing in the right direction; I just need to move forward.

LK

The Bicycle Commuting Diaries: Studded Tires and Snow Plows

Winter is approaching and in Colorado that usually means one thing; snow. In our previous life, we usually parked the bikes in the garage and set up the stationary trainer as the last fall leaves were hitting the ground. This year we decided to “buck up” and keep riding through the ice, snow, and freezing temperatures.
Enter the snow tire for bicycles. We ordered the Ice Spiker Pro from our good friends at Schwalbe and Chris got them installed this morning. Neither one of us has rolled a bicycle with studs before so we decided to go for a test run. The tires require a break in period on pavement so, per the instructions, we started the “running in” process by riding to the post office.
Even though the route was the usual urban adventure of paved path and busy intersections, we found ourselves very excited for the adventure. With a new blanket of snow and a clear blue sky we navigated our way south with smiles on our faces. Intersections were a little crazy as we had to crash our way through the snow piled up from the cleared roads. We must have garnered some attention because most cars gave us the right away.
The only scary part came when we were faced with a wave of snow being thrown from an on-coming plow. I was about the head into a snow bank when the driver looked our way, slowed down, and lifted his plow. I guess that will be rule #1 on the Winter Riding Guide – “watch for snow removal equipment”.

Here’s to snow crunching under your tires,
LK

1 World, Two Wheels

Check this out - see what happens when you "go by bike". http://1world2wheels.org/

Wide Eyed World Photography

I’ve decided to put myself out there. If you have a moment, take a peek.

http://www.lesliekehmeier.com

Thanks,
LK

Save the Trails: Moab

If you’re interested in taking action for the environment, tourism and recreation…

The BLM will be having a lease sale on December 19th. The leases will be available for oil and gas extraction and will affect some very popular and pristine areas in Moab, Utah. Tusher Canyon, Barlett Wash, and Amassa Back are just some of the places that could be impacted.

If you’ve ever been to Moab, you know that it is a very special place. The elements and time have sculpted some spectacular landscapes. Chris and I usually make at least one trip a year and always see something new and amazing every time we go.

To take action, visit one of the following websites. The deadline is soon - December 4 (sorry for the late notice).

IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association)
http://www.imba.com/news/action_alerts/11_08/11_19_moab_leases.html

Access Fund
http://www.accessfund.org/display/page/AA/110

Firing Up My Fax Machine,
LK

Poland to Portugal: How Far? How Many?

Here’s the recap from the Europe leg of our Bicycle Geography Adventure…

Days on the Continent/Days Pedaling: 106/62
Distance Covered: 3,625 km
Hours Pedaling: 244.5
Avg Speed: 15.0 kph
Longest Day: Beziers to Perpignan 104 km
Incidents: 2 (one angry driver in Croatia, one accident in the Alps)

Countries Visited: 9 – Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Italy, Switzerland, France,
Spain, Portugal
Languages Attempted: Polish, Slovakian, Hungarian, Croatian, Italian, German, French,
Spanish, Portuguese

Favorite Country: Croatia (CK), Croatia/Portugal (LK)
Favorite Food: Anything at a tapas bar (CK), croissants (LK and only the ones in France)
Best Beer: Zlaty Bazant – Slovakia

Europe was fantastic for bicycle touring. The continent is full of amazing scenery and interesting culture. Despite the language barriers, we found the interactions with the locals to be quite friendly. We weren’t rock stars as we were in Laos, but we got plenty of smiles and waves.
Although the US Dollar is weaker than the Euro, there are many deals to be found. If you’re into camping and self-catering you can live quite well.
We found roads and highways to be in great condition and drivers are used to bicyclists. In fact, most towns and cities were full of people pedaling.


Stay tuned for the entire trip recap…

LK

Thank You

Without a long introduction or philosophic statement, we’d like to give out many thanks to many people.

To our family and friends at home – thank you for your love, support, and encouragement. Your belief in our journey gave us great strength.

To our new friends on the road – thank you for sharing your time with us. You gave us food, shelter, great conversation, and friendship. The universe brought us together and we will never forget you.

To our blog readers – thank you for taking an interest in our journey. You have made us feel special. We have had great fun sharing our thoughts and adventures.

To our sponsors – thank you for your partnership. Your investment in this grassroots project kept us traveling in the right direction (dry, warm, satiated, organized, lubed, rolling, and fully charged).

"Gratitude unlocks the fullness of life. It turns what we have into enough, and more. It turns denial into acceptance, chaos to order, confusion to clarity. It can turn a meal into a feast, a house into a home, a stranger into a friend. Gratitude makes sense of our past, brings peace for today, and creates a vision for tomorrow." -- Melody Beattie

LK and CK

Travel Circus

Day: 422
Lisbon to Denver
Time: 26 hours

Like any circus you have seen there are big tops, strong men, big men, and the freaks. The only thing missing were the animals, but there was one bird that made a brief appearance.
We caught our early taxi from the hotel to the airport. Traveling with boxed bikes can be a little bulky at times, but with a crazed cabbie and short ride to the airport those weren’t a problem. The cabbie just shoved them in the back and left the hatch open. Leslie spent the first part of the day hanging onto the bikes making sure they didn’t fly out in a roundabout. Thankfully traffic was light that early in the day and the cabbie didn’t have to goose it too much. Once at the airport we somehow got on the same schedule as the ‘pushy’ couple. You know the ones who have to first in line and argue with the ticket agents? They even bossed us on how to run the elevator. Fun beginning to the day. We got a little brekkie at the airport and enjoyed our last cup of Café com leite (½ strong coffee + ½ hot milk). The flight to Frankfurt was mostly spent sleeping so it went quickly. Our layover was short and after 45 minutes of hanging out at the gate we boarded the plane for the long haul. I managed to get behind a guy who had to have his seat leaned back all the way, but as luck would have it there was an open seat on the other side of Leslie next to a nice little Polish Grandma. There was no one in front of me so all was well. About an hour into the flight a guy further up decided that he needed to move and took the seat in front of me. He also leaned it all the way back, but he didn’t last too long in that seat since I placed a knee in his back. He ended up moving several more times throughout the flight, eventually settling in the crew member section on final landing. That flight was spent catching up on movies, eating and napping very little. We finally got into Chicago, where we flew through customs only to get snagged in one of the slowest security lines I have encountered. I love the European style of security; quick, dirty and usually accompanied with a heavily armed guard. We finally got to our gate and lined up with all the other folks. The Chicago to Denver flight was full to the brim with the overheads stuffed beyond belief. I am sure that the flight crews love the charge for checked baggage. There were people in line with big suitcases that intended to carry them on. We finally got settled, got some last minute repair work done on the plane, and vroom off down the runway we went. The kicker was right when we got airborne there was a bang, flash of light and smell of smoke. The pilot turned to plane around and we got a priority emergency landing. We were even met by a fire truck or two to make sure the left engine wasn’t on fire. The official report was that a bird had flown or gotten sucked into the engine on takeoff. The airline handled it all very well and we taxied back to the terminal where we jumped off and got on another plane. We took off a little while later and that flight was nice and uneventful.
We touched down, got our bags and bikes, hustled out to meet the car and off we went. We are a little tired, but did manage to get a good night sleep. The rest of the day will be spent unpacking, checking our pile of mail (3 months worth) and sleeping. Travel is always great while you are on the road, it is the set up and take down that is the wearing part.
CK

The End is Just the Beginning

Day 421
Lisbon

In the beginning we approached the planning of our trip like writing a business plan. As rigid as that seems, it gave us some boundaries to work with. Here are some definitions that helped us to define those boundaries:

Bicycle Geography: The study of the world and all that’s in it (people, places and time) from the seat of a two-wheeled, human powered machine.

Commitment – engagement and involvement

Trust – belief and confidence in the reality, truth and goodness of a person or thing

Adventure – participation in bold and exciting undertakings or endeavors

Humility – having an unassuming nature

Wonder – a state of mind created by something unexpected or extraordinary

I remember many days where I recited those values in my head. It was mostly just a way to keep myself in context, going forward in the direction of the goal. I guess it worked.
Sitting here, writing this blog from Portugal, I laugh at the thought of our first day out in New Zealand. We didn’t really know what we had gotten ourselves into. I think that was a good thing – it made the humility and wonder part all the better.

See you next time on home soil,
LK

Props

Day 419

Lisboa

We want to give out some props to some bicycle people in Portugal. Thanks to Blue Coast Bikes and Loja de Bicicletas.

Blue Coast was kind enough to help us with route and transportation ideas into Lisbon. Without them we might still be trying to ride across the city (we’ve been here for two days now).

Loja de Bicicletas hooked us up with some bomber boxes. They deal in Cannondale, Rocky Mountain, Mondraker, and KTM. Loja’s shop also had that great shop oil smell. It’s kind of like new car smell only better.

Peace,
LK

Just Wanted to Let You Know

Day 418
Setubal to Lisbon
Time: A little riding and a lot of train
Distance: 58.3 km
Avg Speed: 43.5 kph (that’s the train)
Terrain: Flat
Location: N 38˚ 45’ 32.7”, E 09˚ 09’ 10.9”

After 418 days on the ‘road’ I have to come clean. We haven’t left Leslie’s parents basement in over a year. The whole blog and picture thing was made up. It was all fabricated off the internet. The stories from the road were made up with the help of Lonely Planet books. All the photos with us in them were photo shopped.
There, I now have a clean conscience.
On a happier note, Leslie and I just finished riding our bikes around the world. I know that we did ride a train today, but it was in between two riding sections. Where did we celebrate our achievement…McDonald’s of course!!
We are both blind to the fact that we just finished a long sought after dream. I would imagine that in a day or two we will realize that we ‘nuked our foundation’ and have a much different life to return to. The beauty of that is the fact that we are much different people. Sometime, somewhere along the way we both changed. It wasn’t a wake up different change (although some mornings it felt like it), it was a gradual change. We knew we would, we just weren’t sure how much. I don’t think either one of us is sure how much we have.
Right now our priorities are finding a laundromat, finding some boxes for the bikes and doing a little souvenir shopping. I think that the Laundromat may be the hardest one. The nice thing is we have some clothes that are so worn and smelly that they won’t be getting a ride back home with us.
Lisbon isn’t where we thought we would be 416 days ago, or even a month ago. Us being flexible with the weather along with our refusal to ride in the cold brought us here. Not much did go according to our little blueprint we hammered out before we left. I think that our relationship came through the stresses and triumphs with strength and grace. I attribute that to my fellow traveler and partner in crime. I have come to know that wherever I am in the world, I am always home as long as Leslie is at my side (or pulling me through a headwind).

Loving being loved.
CK

The Power of Bicycles

Day 417
Setubal

The main event of the day was finding the train station and working out the logistics of getting to Lisbon. After our hard fought battle to get to Seville we are reverting back to our habit of thorough transportation planning. After talking to the guy at the ticket window we are ready for another adventure in a big city. Hopefully we’ll have nothing interesting to report.
Our visit to the train station sparked a spirited conversation as we walked to our next stop. We discussed the combination of bicycles, public transportation, and our experiences throughout the trip. We’ve been able to travel with our bicycles on trains and ferries relatively easily (except for Spain). We also chatted about the utility of the two-wheeled machine and the possibilities it has beyond a recreational capacity. We’ve seen plenty of practical use here in Europe but not enough in the US.
Consider the following (fine graphics are available on the World Bicycle Relief Webpage):

Time
During a commuting day of 10 miles traveled, a bicycle saves 3 hours.
Walking – 2.5 miles per hour
Bicycling – 10 miles per hour
Capacity
Riding a bicycle increases one's capacity by 5 times.
Effort
As time increases, effort to travel increases. Riding a bicycle requires less effort, allowing one to travel farther in less time.
Distance
Over equal units of time, one can ride a bicycle 4 times the distance as one walking.

After waving our righteous fingers, we came to a conclusion. As fuel prices remain high and people are looking for ways to save money, the bicycle is a very viable means of transport. To that end, it is very important that public transportation compliments the choice of traveling by bicycle.
All of that came from finding out that our bikes travel for free on the train tomorrow.

So, where did we go after the train station? We visited the Igreja de Jesus, a late Gothic church built with the Manueline architectural style. The church was in a very natural state – not pristine, but not in shambles. The pillars of the church were very unique compared to anything I’ve seen in all of Europe. The design is very ornate while the stone is very rustic. Each column twists from floor to ceiling and provides an interesting contrast to the tile mosaics that line the church walls. The structure is apparently the first to use this particular style and we’ll be looking for more buildings in Lisbon for comparison.

Have a good weekend,
LK

New Things and Old Things

Day: 416
Grândola to Setubal
Time: 2:52
Distance: 47.2 km
Avg Speed: 16.4 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 38 30' N, 08 58' W

We slept through our alarms this morning. The bed was too warm, and the heavy curtains were keeping out just enough light to fool us. We still made it to the free brekkie before the rest of the guests. Just enough time to drink all the coffee and eat the croissants. We both thought that the croissants are the best ones we have had since France. On a total side note, today is Prince Charles’ 60th birthday. There was a party and the royal cavalry even did a 41 gun salute at his precise birth time. The salute was a request of the queen. I love BBC News.
The riding today was pretty straightforward. The road we needed was off the main roundabout in Grândola and after that it was point it straight and go. Even though the road was a back road on the map it turned into a truck route. The truckers were all nice and waited for oncoming traffic to pass and didn’t buzz us on blind corners. Part of the ride today was along a narrow spit of sand that led to our only water crossing of the day. Leslie wanted to swim it, but I talked her into taking a ferry. We know the game when it comes to ferry boats and after waiting our turn with the cars we were allowed to jump the line and go to the front of the boat. The crossing went quickly and I was able to pass the little time by watching the fishermen lining the beach.
Setubal reminded us both of the waterfront in Hobart, Tasmania. The old classic buildings tumble down the hill to the waterfront where they are met by the wharfs and piers servicing all the ships that port here. We quickly found a nice place to stay and took a little rest before heading out. Our first order of business was internet and the best place for that is…McDonald’s!! They didn’t have internet, but they did have fries and a coke. From there we went to the library where they did have internet along with a huge display of Marxism and Chè Guevara. We have noticed a lot of bill boards and signs for the Portuguese Communist Party. Last night we even stayed across the street from the district HQ. We left the library in the dark and found our way back into our neighborhood. The locals were out and the roasted chestnut vendors were on every corner. Neither of us had ever had them so we parted with a few Euro and got a bag. WOW! They are really good. We both may get our own bag tomorrow night. Trying new things only leads to dead ends (or belly aches) once in a great while. Most of the time you are left with a smile on your face and new understanding of the things that make life tick.
Tick tock, tick tock
CK

Presence

Day: 415
Cercal to Grândola
Time: 3:59:00
Distance: 54.7
Avg Speed: 14.7
Terrain: Hills
Location: N 38˚ 10’ 31.8”, 08˚ 34’ 4.1” W

Man, I’m getting tired. I don’t know if it’s the fact that we are on day 415 and 9,500+ kilometers into the trip or if my body just knows the end is near. Fatigue has been setting in around lunchtime and we usually have a couple of more hours to go before the day is done. Perhaps it has something to do with the weeklong break we took recently. Chris equated it to running a car for three months, turning it off, and now it doesn’t want to start again. With one or two more days to go, I think we can muster up the last little bit of energy. I just keep telling myself to be present and enjoy the last bit of pedaling. Soon enough we’ll be home facing the winter months and no regular rides to depend on.
We had another peaceful ride through the undulating cork groves today. I enjoyed examining all of the twisted branches of the trees with no leaves. I’ve become quite fascinated with these oaks. I also tried to soak up the atmosphere; blue skies, rural landscape, and smiling locals. Most people will give a wave if you give them a nod. I’ve had such a good feeling from most rural people across Europe, but the Portuguese are special. I don’t know what it is exactly, but they just have this quiet confidence about them.
And so we come to the eve of the last day riding. I’m sure it won’t be the last time we prepare for the last day of a big ride. I’d like to think that we have many more adventures with bicycles ahead of us. It will probably be a day of reflection and I’m sure we’ll share our thoughts here. You’ll probably get tired of us philosophizing in the next week or so. I’m finding that it’s hard not to think about what we’ve done, where we’ve been, and how life has changed. My mom shared a quote with me yesterday in an email. Apparently it was something that I wrote down when I was in college. Ironically it’s something that puts our trip into perspective.

"Presence: Success is a matter of desire, failure is a matter of excuses. Strength is building a road of dreams into the future, but still following it when weakness arises. And nothing happens unless the mind has presence."

Until tomorrow,
LK