Two People, Two Bicycles, Two Trains

Day 152
Bangkok to Phitsanulok (by train)
Time: 4:30:00 + 25:00 across Bangkok by bike
Distance: Halfway to Chiang Mai
Avg Speed: Train Speed
Terrain: Flat with rice
Location: 100˚ 15’ 44”, 16˚ 48’ 25”


Where do I start?

With our rest period complete, we got back in the swing of things by riding to the Bangkok train station this morning. Even with the combination of being in a completely foreign country and in a city of 7.5 million, we were pretty excited to get back on the road. For the first time in a week, we read the map correctly and found our way to the train station in about 25 minutes. The ride wasn’t horrifying at all – bicycles are part of the transit system here and we just fit right in. I did my best to look around and soak it in. It was hard to believe I was riding in Bangkok. The air was so thick that you could see it and the city was bustling with all sorts of activities.
The train station was very organized and a nice girl helped us find our platform. We pushed our bikes down to a bench and waited. About 45 minutes later the train rolled in and we queued up like everyone else. There were many farang (slang for foreigners) but we still looked out of place with our bicycles. I started to chat with a fellow who noticed my panniers. He had cycled something like 20,000+ kilometers from Korea to Portugal. Wow. Anyhow, he wondered if we’d be able to take our bikes on the train. We both shrugged and said “we think so”. Turns out we thought wrong.
Soon after our chat with Boston (didn’t catch his name, just his city) we got the shake down from the platform guard. We weren’t allowed to take bikes on the express train. He told us what train we could take and we wheeled our circus back into the station. Chris got a workout for the next half hour as he went from window to desk to window to figure out what we would do. The next train turned out to be third class, not such a problem unless you’re up for nine hours with no a/c. So, the solution was for us to get on the express and our bikes to go on the slow train. In a very organized fashion, we checked in our bikes, received our claim ticket and walked away. Let me tell you, it was a strange feeling…
It’s a funny thing to be separated from your bike. I think it could be difficult to understand if you’ve never toured. This little machine has taken me everywhere and hauled my gear as well. I didn’t have time to dwell too much because we were in such a hurry to make everything happen.
The train ride was rather uneventful and we arrived 40 minutes late in Phitsanulok. We saw Boston again and he wondered about our rigs. We told him the story and he just smiled. In our previous meeting with him he told us how he had lived in Phitsanulok for a few years way back when. We inquired if he knew any good guesthouses and the next thing we knew he was speaking to a taxi driver in fluent Thai. In a matter of minutes we were being driven to the international youth hostel to find some budget accommodation. Boston decided to join us and check the place out. He was our translator as we checked out a few different rooms. We have no idea what he was saying but we ended up with something basic for $10. Not bad for a decent sized room with a bathroom. The only drawback is that there is only half of a toilet seat, but who’s complaining?
Here’s to being back on the road,
LK
ps – the slow train was an hour and a half late, but the bikes did make it.

Hot Time in the City

Day: 151
Bangkok Day 6


We spent the day hanging out and getting things in order for the train ride tomorrow. We spent this morning talking to some family and catching up on emails and computer business.
The panniers are packed the money is stashed and the tires are aired up. Tomorrow we roll.
CK

Reclining Buddha

Day 150
Bangkok



Today we visited the oldest and the largest temple in Bangkok; Wat Pho (pronounced “poe”). Instead of haggling for a taxi or a tuk-tuk, we had a 30 minute walk to the grounds. Once again, we found ourselves walking through another market area. This one, called Wat Mahathat, was selling various amulets. These good luck charms are a traditional part of Thai Buddhism and are worn as protection from evil spirits and bad luck.
From the market we passed the Grand Palace and then followed the long train of tour buses to the entrance of Wat Pho. We paid our 50 baht each (about $1.5) to get in, and then walked the grounds to start. Throughout the courtyard we found several smaller temples, different gardens and some very interesting statues. These granite sculptures were brought from China as ballast on empty sailing vessels. We were really captivated by the different depictions of warriors and philosophers.
Finally, we made our way around to the main temple where the Reclining Buddha is housed. The figure is 46 meters long by 16 meters high and is covered in gold leaf. Dating back to the 16th century, the Reclining Buddha predates the city of Bangkok. Its laid out position symbolizes Buddha’s death and passage into nirvana. The size of the figure was actually quite incredible.
By 11:30 we had trekked back to our ‘hood. We found some lunch and enjoyed watching the various activities going on in the street. It’s all about tourism here. Now we’ve taken refuge for the afternoon while the hot and sultry part of the day passes. In a few hours we’ll venture out to find our favorite noodle cart and observe the evening’s events. I’m going to soak it up because in a couple of days we’ll be back on the road. We’re really looking forward to it.
LK

Bangkok Bingo

Day: 149
Hotel to Clinic to Embassy to Hotel
Time: ‘til Noon

No it isn’t one of the ‘shows’ that you can see in the city. It is merely the dance that one does in the city day to day. We got our second round of rabies shots today. We grabbed a cab from the hotel to take us over to the clinic. We overpaid for the cab, which is mainly due to me not bargaining over the price. Everything is negotiable here, and I keep forgetting that the price they give is way high. The vaccinations were not negotiable, but it was one of the nicest clinics around. We had our tea, had our shots and paid a grand total of $60 for the office visits and the two shots. We hiked down to the embassy to register our presence in Thailand with the US only to stand in line and find out that we can do that online. It was nice to see the Stars and Stripes flying. Our taxi back was much better, but I still think that we overpaid.
Our dinner hour has become one of our favorite parts of the day. The street takes on the scene straight out of a movie. The street carts start hopping, the live music start flowing and people start coming out of the woodwork. We have naturally found a favorite cart for dinner and desert. We get our pad thai with spring rolls, sit on the steps behind the cart to eat them and people watch. The best site is the cart next to our pad thai gal. This cart has fried insects of all types. I thought I could eat a bug, but after seeing a pile of fried crickets and grubs I changed my mind. The bug gal gets quite a few lookers though and Leslie and I have a good time filling in the dialogue between the lookers and their friends. Leslie likes pineapple for desert, whereas I have found banana pancakes with sweetened condensed milk drizzled on top. It is more of a fried dough with bananas inside of it rather than a pancake like we know. Leave it to me to find desert.
All this entertainment in a 20’ radius, and it is all ours for 105 β ($3 and some change). For the overpricing of the cabs we took it is all resolved at dinner time.
BINGO!!
CK

Commerce on the Water: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Day: 148
Bangkok


Today we ventured out for the first time beyond Bangkok. Our friend, an enterprising fellow named Bird, drove us to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. We arrived after an hour and a half drive and were waved in by the eager people giving boat tours of the market.
Initially when Chris booked the trip, he thought that the price included the boat tour. We soon came to find that the cost was just for our private taxi. Live and learn and welcome to a new country with a different language.
Anyway, we settled the bill on stepped onto our own private longboat. The vessel was approximately 20 feet long by 3 feet wide. The motor was a straight V8 with an eight foot shafted propeller. The captain steered with one hand and worked the throttle with the other. I’m pretty sure the engine was a bit big for the boat.
Off we went down the canal system. Without knowing what lay ahead, we had no expectations. Not surprisingly we stopped at a few souvenir stands and were implored to buy some goods. I bought a package of postcards and we continued on. Soon we began to see other boats; some similar to ours and others with no engine that were being paddled. The water was definitely getting more crowded. As we turned the next corner our eyes got big like saucers. This was it – the floating market. In the water and on the docks, goods were being sold. From soup to nuts you could watch your food being prepared and buy the bowl you were eating from. At first glance it was total chaos – too many boats and not enough room. Upon further review, you could see that the boat captains did have some organized system. Once you settled into the madness you were captivated by all of the activity. It’s was definitely a tourist oriented market, but you did get some sense of what life was like here years ago.
In actuality, the canal system was very important to central Thais in the days before automobiles. The only transport a family owned was the dugout boat that transported goods and people from point to point. The market we visited today is the most famous survivor of days past. And, if you looked closely, you could catch a glimpse of present day Thai life - a house on stilts and laundry hanging from the line.
LK

Sites and Smells

Day: 147
Bangkok Day 2
Terrain: Big City
Location: Banglamphu District


We spent today laying out a plan for our travels in Southeast Asia. We needed to do this for two reasons. The first was to figure out when and where we would be during certain stages. The second was to figure out how much money we need to carry with us. ATM’s haven’t caught on in Laos and Cambodia like they have here in Thailand and Vietnam. Luckily Laos will trade in their currency, the Kip, as well as the US Dollar and the Thai Baht. We will end up carrying all the money we need as we roll through Laos in a few weeks time. We shall see how that unfolds.
We are watching BBC news right now and they reported a 7.6 magnitude earthquake near Sumatra. The local news hasn’t reported anything yet.
We were requested to report on the sights and smells in Bangkok. The sights are best left to pictures, but if you can imagine the sidewalks in the town you live in with little tarp tents set up and taken down every night that line all the paths you might get an idea. The interesting thing is we are in a city of 6 million people. The little booths are set up in front of store fronts in the buildings. The store fronts range from jewelry to groceries to a five story department store. The booths have all kinds of things from food to prepare at home, food to eat there, sweets, every item of clothing you can imagine and all the trinkets under the stars.
To imagine the smells you need to take all the sights you have imagined and add a scent to them. Cooking oil, fish, sugary syrups, curries, breads, diesel and 2-cycle engines, sewer, sweat, flowers, tea and coffee, new clothes. It is all there and all at once. It sounds crazy, but you get the scents all at once, yet when you are in the vicinity of a particular scent you are ensconced with that smell. All the others just live as background. The booths block out the street smells when you are inside them, and when you are on the street you are blocked from the booth smells. It isn’t overwhelming, but it is intense.
lah gòrn (good bye in thai)
CK

The Big Mango

We're in Bangkok!
We arrived last evening and found our way to the Banglamphu neighborhood. We made it easy for ourselves and got a taxi from the airport. I'm not sure we'll be practicing our urban riding skills in this city.
This morning we set out on foot but soon found ourselves in a tuk-tuk. We probably fell prey to the tuk-tuk shopping scheme as we visited a mix of temples and retail stores. We did walk away with a few souvenirs.
We're not even through the first day and our minds are blown. Southeast Asia is going to be a fun and wild ride.
Stay tuned for pictures. We hope everyone is well at home.
LK

Market Day

Day 143
Hobart

If it’s Saturday, it must be Salamanca. The market takes place every weekend throughout the year. You can get just about anything you want or need from over 300 vendors. The area was very lively by the time we arrived this morning. We worked our way passed fresh produce, Tasmanian handicrafts and coffee carts. Chris couldn’t resist the apple turnovers or the Dutch doughnuts – not surprising. I really enjoyed all of the live music. The melodies wafted through the air like the smell of a nice hot mug of cappucino. The people who provide the entertainment are called “buskers”. One “busker” in particular caught my attention. He was a boy of no more than 12 or 13. He was getting crazy on his acoustic guitar while playing The Knack’s “My Sharona”. His performance definitely had some passion. It was great to see a young person developing a talent rather than hanging out at McDonald’s and talking on a cell phone…
The rest of the day has been spent getting the bikes cleaned and packed. We normally have limited area, cleaning supplies and tools to do a proper job. Not this time – Tildy gave us full run of “Beruit” and furnished soap, rags and a hose. We’ll be sending a whole case of Twinkies to our host when we return home.
We’re only two days away from our next country. The excitement has been building for awhile. I’ve definitely felt nervous but now I’m just psyched. New languages, new food, and new cultures. It sounds thrilling and daunting at the same time. At least we’ve got the riding part down so far. This is actually the part of the world that I have been most eager to travel to. Thinking ahead also makes me think back to the initial planning stages for this trip. One reason we chose to bicycle tour was due to a book I purchased a few years ago. I used to buy guidebooks at the Eagle Library periodically; hardbacks for a buck and paperbacks for a quarter. I suppose I was always in the process of getting travel ideas. One day I found “Cycling Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam” and a light bulb went on. Hmmm…I guess the rest is history.
LK

Prisons and Tessellated Pavement

Day: 142
Hobart to Port Arthur to Hobart
Time: 10 hours or so
Distance: 372 km
Avg Speed: 110
Terrain: Didn’t Matter

We broke our streak and rented a car for a tour of Port Arthur and the surrounding area. We did it right though and got a big land yacht with bad mileage.
We cruised out to Port Arthur south of Hobart to check out the old prison they had there. The prison was one of many set up in Tasmania for people coming from the British empire as well as Canada and America. I figured that this is where people who had performed horrible crimes against humanity came. I was quite surprised to find out that people were sent here for as little as stealing a shirt. When you enter the site you are assigned a prisoner whom you are to follow around the introductory area. My prisoner was sent here for the theft of £5 worth of drugs from a pharmacy. I really didn’t see the logic of sending someone halfway around the world for a crime of that sort, but I guess the government operated on the ‘one bad apple’ ideal of population management. The Port Arthur prison was chosen for its geographic isolation as well as its location near a bay. The prisoners all had work detail that ranged for cobbling, and tailoring to ship building and road construction. The site also housed a boy’s prison that was isolated from the main men’s prison. The boys were usually 14-17 years old, but there was evidence of boys as young as 9 being sent there. Back then an 8 year old could be tried as an adult and a 9 year old sentenced to death. Times were certainly different. The boy’s prison got off to a bad start though, with the first 68 boys showing up dead drunk, having consumed six dozen stolen bottles of wine on the ship journey down.
The waters surrounding the prison were rumored to be filled with man eating sharks and the alternative route of escape through the forest offered very little hope as well. The peninsula that Port Arthur is located on is attached by a narrow isthmus called Eagle Hawk Neck. Here there were more guards stationed as well as a line of dogs chained up at intervals across the land and on platforms off the shore.
We also visited some geological areas of interest like arches, blow holes and the geometric tessellated pavement. Here horizontal stone had cracked into squares and was regularly being worn down by the sea water and salt crystals.
We felt a little guilty about renting a car to go see these sights, but soon got over it when we covered 100 km in just over an hour. You can see the sights quite well from a car, but on a bike you can feel the sights and the land around you. That is an essence of bicycle riding that is hard to describe and forget.
Vroom, Vroom
CK

Needles and Pills and Doctors, Oh My!

Day 141
Hobart

Today reminded me of a MasterCard commercial -

Travel Consultation: $185
Rabies Shots: $200
Typhoid Booster: $40
Malaria Pills (all 214): $150
Giardia Pills: $52
Mosquito Net: $55
Water Purification Tablets: $30
Protecting our health while traveling through Southeast Asia: PRICELESS

You can’t really be a cheap bastard when it comes to your health.

Here’s to lollies and bandaids,
LK

Hobart Town

Day 138 and 139
Hobart
Location: 42˚ 52’ 50” S, 147˚ 19’ 30” E

Day 2 in Hobart. So far we’ve done laundry and gone shopping. Not very productive for the Kehmeiers, but we’re resting. Tomorrow we may actually go sightseeing depending on the weather.
Since there is not much to report, we can share a bit of information regarding the city of Hobart and the state of Tasmania.
Separated by Bass Straight, Tasmania is the island state of Australia. Tassie, as it’s affectionately known, is recognized for natural beauty. In fact, over 20% of the 68,000 sq kilometers it covers is protected as World Heritage Area. In addition to magnificent scenery, Tasmania also boasts a range of good food and drink. We’ve sampled everything including mouth-watering dairy products from King Island and enjoyable wines from the Tamar Valley. After seeing just a glimpse of Tasmania, Chris and I both know that this area of the world deserves a return visit.
Lying on the shores of the Derwent River, Hobart was founded in 1803. Originally a penal colony, the city is now the administrative and financial heart of Tasmania. It is the eleventh most populous city in Australia with just about 200,000 people. Hobart is an important sea port and is the base of operations for the Antarctic operations of Australia and France. The city has a beautiful backdrop of green hills and historic buildings. We look forward to exploring all the nooks and crannies in the coming days.
Here’s to today’s geography lesson,
LK

Getting Down to H-Town

Day 137
Bicheno to Hobart
Time: Three Hours
Distance: 179 kilometers
Avg Speed: As fast as you can go in a coach on winding roads
Terrain: Duh, hills!

Location: 42° 54' S, 147° 18' E

It’s official – we’re tired. The second bus ride in four days is a sure sign that four and a half months on the road have caught up with us. Rather than continue on and risk potential meltdown, we decided to get a room in Hobart for the week. Our host at the Bicheno Backpackers was kind enough to help us with our search for accommodation and had a roomed booked for us before we hopped on the bus. If you ever find yourself on the east coast of Tassie, be sure to stay with Hannah and Matt! They are lovely people and made our short stay very enjoyable.
The bus ride seemed to pass quickly and we reached Hobart by early evening. Within a few minutes we had our bikes and panniers ready to roll. We have become well practiced with the bus routine. With an address in hand, we began to plot our route through the city. A woman standing near us jumped into the conversation and gave us first hand directions by memory. Thanks to all of the friendly Aussies, we have had little need to read maps during our stay. Ten minutes later we rolled up in front of the Astor Hotel.
Chris waited with the bikes while I climbed up the red carpeted stairs. I found my way to the reception desk, picked up the phone and waited. An animated voice answered on the other end and quickly said “wait right there”. A few seconds later our host, Tildy, came down the stairs.
I don’t think I can actually describe our host to do her justice. She is, to say the least, unique. Tildy, you see, is no ordinary hotel owner. She is quick witted and full of energy. She is vibrant and full of life. Tildy fires off the questions in rapid succession and is on to the next thought before you have a chance to even think about an answer. You can tell she is a very good egg and we are really looking forward to our stay here. She even has our itinerary planned for the week. Night one: a glass of wine and a movie that’s artsy but still understandable. Night two: Dominoe’s pizza and Bridget Jones’ Diary on the portable DVD player. Night three…
LK

Wineglass Bay

Day: 136
Bicheno to Coles Bay to Bicheno
Time: All Day
Terrain: Rocky and Sandy

We found a nice place to rest our heads in Bicheno so we decided to take a shuttle down to Freycinet National Park. The park is on the Freycinet Peninsula on the east coast of Tasmania. It is home to a great little range of granite peaks called the Hazards along with one of the most beautiful beaches around. Wineglass Bay and Wineglass Beach see over 140,000 visitors per year. Most of them come in on the foot track, but some do sail into the bay to enjoy the scenery. The water was too rough for commercial boat tours today so we had the beach to ourselves and only 50-60 other people. The beach itself is quite large so we were all spread out and had a little patch of sand to ourselves. The hike to the beach is about 1 hour long so most people hike it as an out and back. We had all day so we decided to do the hike as a loop and cross the isthmus to Hazards Beach and out along Great Oyster Bay. The rain held off most of the day and we enjoyed dry weather. It was a nice hike, even with dead legs, and we only saw one snake. It was shy and slithered off into the bush before we could get a photo of it. We did manage to get some photos of some nasty little jelly fish here called blue bottles. They were washed up all along Hazards Beach so we took the opportunity to take a few photos. I think they look like a little bubble of blueberry gum on the ground.
The shuttle picked us up at the visitor’s center and we enjoyed one of the more scary rides on a shuttle in a while. The driver insisted on driving as fast as the van could go and still hold the road.
The backpackers we are in has all the double rooms in one building and all the bunk rooms in another. We are in the double room building and found that our new house mates were a family from China. We ended up cooking dinner together and while they were cooking lobster, potatoes, carrots and peas, I was whipping up a Thai soup with rice noodles. The matriarch of the family took great interest in what I was cooking and remarked that it looked delicious. It was a good little meal, but if I had my choice I think I would have liked to have the lobster.
We are fading fast with our legs right now, so we are catching a bus to Hobart tomorrow. 4 ½ months riding the road has caught up with us. We don’t really want to miss out on the terrain between here and Hobart, but we don’t really want to get ill or completely blow up either. We are going to treat ourselves right before we head off to Asia where we will take some more time off before getting back on the road.
CK

Chasing Blue Sky

Day 135
St Helens to Bicheno
Time: 4:33:27
Distance: 76.79 km
Avg Speed: 16.8 kph
Terrain: Rolling (as flat as Tassie can get)
Location: 41˚ 52’ 41.5” S, 148˚ 18’ 18.9” E

More rain this morning. According to our fellow bicycle touring friends, the weather required “level 2” rain gear. This translates to rain coat and pants. They go to “level 3” with booties and gloves. I think that would send us right back to bed or to the nearest café.
We started our route south along the east coast today. It wasn’t long before we left St Helens behind and found ourselves right on the ocean. Even on a cloudy day the water was beautiful. We stopped a couple of times to watch the waves and catch a glimpse down the shoreline. In the distance we saw some blue sky and figured by the end of the ride we would be in sunshine. I read in the guidebook that this area of coastline and south is Tassie’s driest, averaging six hours of sunlight a day. We’re already behind on the first day. Hopefully we won’t be making up for all of those clear days at Mt Cook.
This part of the state is home to both land and sea industries. Grazing had a hand in rapid settlement in the early 1800s while whaling and fishing also became important. The early pioneers were even helped by the convicts that had served time in the region.
We were almost to the edge of the clouds when we stopped for lunch at another beach. We said a quick hello to a surfer who was checking out the waves. “Tuesday would have been fun” he remarked. I think I recall hearing about flash floods that day. He drove away as we ate our vegemite sandwiches. As I spread the yeast extract on the roll, I thought it kind of looked like chocolate. Sure doesn’t taste like chocolate.
By 2:30pm we rolled into Bicheno. After getting a room at the backpackers we went straight to the café for some cappuccinos and wireless internet. Our friends had scoped the place out last week and gave us the lowdown. We updated the blog, checked email and downloaded the latest Jack Johnson album.
We never did catch up with the blue sky or the sun today. At least we’ve got some new tunes to give us a bright outlook.
Aloha,
LK

Mail Route

Day: 135
Scottsdale to St. Helens
Time: All Day
Distance: Not Sure
Avg Speed: Pretty Quick
Terrain: HILLY

We decided to get a little ahead of the curve today and took a series of mail vans for 100km or so. We were glad that we opted for the mail route since it rained all day and the terrain was hilly on the ridiculous side. The rural bus route here uses rural mail carriers to shuttle both parcels and people. The first bus was the Scottsdale to Derby, and included a trailer full of packages and 3 other passengers. We swung off the highway to the little towns and post offices to pick up and drop off mail. We got into Derby around 11:30 and waited around until 12:15 for the Derby to St. Helens leg. This is where the trip really got interesting. We were guests of the rural mail carrying couple Bob and Shirley. They had been doing the mail game since May 1998. That is when Bob had stopped hauling logs. They knew the route, the people and all the good stops. We ran up to little farm houses to deliver mail to old ladies and they even dropped us off for 10 minutes at a cheese factory and café while they ran out on a little loop. I couldn’t quite bring myself to pay $10 for a 250 gm chunk of cheddar, but we did manage to have a milkshake and a couple of kiss biscuit (little jam filled cookies). The highlight of the trip was our fellow passenger, Richard. He was from Sydney, and had recently moved down here to start a Chinese museum with antiques found in the barn of his father’s.
During the 1800’s Chinese immigrants had come over to this area to mine. The head of the Chinese community was a wealthy mandarin man and his wife. She had spoken both French and English along with her Chinese. This mandarin couple had befriended his great grandfather, who also spoke Chinese, and used his barn to store some things. The mining eventually petered out and the Chinese workers and the community as a whole had gone back to China. They left all their things in the barn and never returned for them. Richard had wanted to start a museum with these goods and was having trouble getting his idea off the ground.
He had no car and caught a ride with Bob and Shirley once a week for groceries. He had taught art at the art school in Sydney, and after he left the car Shirley told us that he had paintings he had done hanging all over his house. She also added that he had paintings hanging in studios in Sydney and Hobart. He was a very interesting and eccentric person. The bus ride was a kind of a shortcut for us, but the people that we met and the little places we saw were just magic.
Here’s to mail buses and the people that we meet along the way!!
CK

Super Tuesday

Day 133
Lilydale to Scottsdale
Time: 3:05:22
Distance: 26.57
Avg Speed: 8.56
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 41˚ 09’ 36.2” S, 147˚ 31’ 7.1” E

It’s Wednesday here but still the day before in Colorado and there’s a lot going on. As you know, it’s an election year and I think it will prove to be an important one. Don’t worry; I’m not going to share my political opinions or aspirations. What I will say is that we’ve been able to follow the news at home in detail throughout our trip. The amount of information has surprised me and I believe that the US news agencies don’t reciprocate. It just goes to show how much influence the United States has throughout the world.
We stopped early again today. The weather front to the northeast was expected to bring more rain this afternoon. We rolled into Scottsdale around lunch and started working on a plan to get to move a bit faster. We booked a bus ticket for tomorrow to get us closer to some of places of interest on the east coast. It should be interesting; part of the trip will be on the mail run to St Helens.
On a trip like this, we are constantly thinking about what to see and what not to see. Time, finances and transportation are all part of the equation. We’ve come to realize that it’s best to think that we may never return again to visit. If it costs a little more and we have the time and the legs we usually go for it. In this case, we need a little more time so we accept having to take a bus to get to the highlights.
We’re on night two of the pub accommodation tour. We’re not so interested in the tent right now; especially with the rain we’ve seen the last couple of days. Hopefully the weather will clear up soon and we can get in a few more nights on the ground before we send the tent home.
Take good care,
LK

Zigging and Zagging

Day: 132
Greens Beach to Lilydale
Time: 4:33
Distance: 68.01 km
Avg Speed: 14.9 kph
Terrain: Rolling

We jumped out of the comfort of our nest this morning. It was difficult to leave a familiar face behind and head off into the unknown. Our goal is to head over to the east coast and roll on south to Hobart. We were trying to get another 40 km further this afternoon, but after riding in the rain for an hour we decided to hole up at the pub in Lilydale. Before you start thinking that we were drinking the afternoon away, you should know that here you can generally rent a room to stay in at the local pub. We rolled our bikes into the overhang by our room and the skies absolutely opened up for a solid hour. We were glad that we grabbed some lodging and didn’t try and press forward.
We both had a wonderful time hanging out and visiting with friends from the valley. It was nice to catch up on the gossip and happenings in the Eagle County. Whether it was sailing, hiking, flying kites, cooking, eating (lots of that), wine tasting, cocktail hour, or just visiting we had a great time being a tourist local.
The riding today wasn’t overly difficult or very busy. It just involved a bit of route finding and map reading. We managed to stay away from the logging trucks and toured charming farm land. Leslie had to cajole me at a rest stop to get moving because I was busy picking blackberries on a bush hanging over a fence row. She had to give it a go as well and we had a little snack of fresh berries along the road.
Tomorrow will be different from what we had planned. We shall see if we can get the show back on schedule since it flew off the first day.
Adios.
CK
How about those Giants?!?!

Goodbye Victoria, Hello Tassie

Days 128-131
Devenport Ferry Dock to Greens Beach

We had an early arrival in Devenport, Tasmania a few days ago. The ferry wasn’t too bad, but who can really sleep in a half reclined chair with fifty people snoring around you. Thank goodness for earplugs. We rolled our bikes of the cargo deck, called our friends and found the nearest café. Three days later we are feeling like locals after a weekend of food, fun and plenty of sleep in a real bed. Here are some of the highlights from the last few days:

-Sunbathing and kite flying at a beautiful (and deserted) beach
-Hanging on the trapeze while sailing on a catamaran
-Hiking along the beach for a mug of cappuccino
-Happy Hour whenever we felt like it
-Watching Chris dunk chips (fries) in a seafood pastry
-Catching up with news from home
-Getting to know new friends

We’d like to thank our hosts, Louise and Clive, for opening their home to us. We enjoyed their hospitality and company more than anyone could imagine. They have been around the block a few times (including a few trips on bicycles) and were kind enough to share some wonderful stories and many bits of useful information. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts!

CK and LK

Messenger Mode

Day 127
Torquay to Geelong (then to Melbourne via train)
Time: 2:52:00
Distance: 38.8 km
Avg Speed: 13.5 kph
Terrain: Flat
Location:

I got my first taste of city riding in San Francisco. I was visiting a friend and we rode what I like to call “messenger style” throughout the streets. What I remember most was being able to get across town faster than any car, train or bus. What I really liked was the fast pace of riding through traffic and split second decisions to keep moving. Hmm, perhaps I’m just an adrenaline junkie…

Today we found ourselves back in Melbourne. We rode to Geelong from Torquay and got on a train back to the city. The end of the line was Southern Cross Station, familiar territory. We had some time to kill before our ferry to Tasmania departed so we stored our gear and set off through downtown on our bikes. I have come to love riding through cities and find myself in full-on “messenger style” every time we hit the urban jungles. I was like a dog with a new haircut without the weight of my panniers. Chris was content to play follow the leader as I traversed my way toward the lunch stop. Our touring rigs aren’t as chic as the single-speed fixies that passed us, but at least we were turning the pedals, hanging it all out there.
We went to the Carlton neighborhood for lunch. A friend back home mentioned that the area was great for Italian food. She was correct as we had a couple of very tasty pizzas followed by our new favorite treat, gelato. I keep thinking we’ll run out of sweet treats to sample but so far we’ve always come up with something new. My mom thinks we look pretty thin in our photos…if she only knew what we were eating everyday.
We’re on the Spirit of Tasmania ferry tonight. We arrive very early tomorrow morning in Devenport and then will ride to Greens Beach to visit some friends. We’re looking forward to another few days of rest after a couple of good weeks of touring in Victoria. We’ll be riding from north to south through Tasmania. They say there are many hills in “Tassie”, but I’m more interested in what the riding is like in Hobart.
So long for now,
LK

Convoy

Day: 127
Lorne to Torquay
Time: 3:17
Distance: 49.95 km
Avg Speed: 15.10 kph
Terrain: rolling
Location: 38˚ 20’ 25.2” S, 144˚ 19’ 14.2” E

We officially ended our tour of the Great Ocean Road today. We crossed under the memorial arch this morning and stopped for a picture opportunity. We ended up waiting our turn since we timed our stop with three tour buses.
We picked up a third in our party last night. We ran into an Austrian fellow who is doing a trip along the same lines as ours. He is from the town that Governor Arnold is from. In fact he wowed us with a spot on impersonation of the man. It was too funny. He started his trip with a trek in Nepal, followed by diving lessons on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, a 4x4 journey across the center of Australia to Adelaide and when we met him, he was cycle touring. He had bought his bike in Adelaide and was working his way east in our direction. He was actually going to New Zealand in a couple of weeks so we ran out for beers and Leslie and I gave him the low down. He was quite appreciative of the info and we made plans to meet for breakfast. We finally met someone who is in love with food as much as we are. We finally got on the road around 10:30 or so and the three of us headed on down the road. He had to get to Geelong today so he could make train into Melbourne tonight. He had to get his bike packed for New Zealand and then he was heading to Tasmania to trek a bit. We stopped along the way for an ice cream break. He ended up with iced coffee and Leslie and I ended up with Slush Puppies. I had to tell the other two how my sister and I would get Slush Puppies from the market where we grew up in Reno. Grape is still the flavor to have. We rolled into Torquay and stopped at an info center to find a place to camp. I asked our Austrian friend if he wanted to buy Leslie’s front pannier rack for his tour. He had been talking about getting a front rack and since Leslie wasn’t using hers it seemed like a good idea. We ended up switching it out in the alley between a bike shop and surf board shaper. The wind was just right and the alley was filled with epoxy fumes the whole time. A few zip ties and a couple feet of duct tape later we were in business and having ice cream again before he got on the road. We are now back to a twosome and camping like we have been for the past 4 months. We have now graduated to campgrounds full of surfers rather than families on holiday. I prefer the surfer.
Hasta la vista…baby.
CK

A Surprise around Every Corner

Day 125
Apollo Bay to Lorne
Time: 2:47:26
Distance: 43.44 k
Avg Speed: 15.5 kph
Terrain: Beautiful Coastal Road
Location: 38 32 14.8 S, 143 58 39 E

Today was one of those days. It was the kind of day that just felt right. It didn’t ever get too hard to pedal, the temperature was perfect and every view was unbelievable. It was day four on the Great Ocean Rd.

The guidebook claimed that the route from Apollo Bay to Lorne would be the most scenic. I had my doubts since we had seen some fantastic landscapes in the previous three days. However, I have to agree that the 44 kilometers we pedaled today were pretty darn incredible.
We started early this morning after a really good rest. The road was flat and the traffic was light. About the only sounds we heard were the birds singing and the waves crashing. After the first few kilometers we found ourselves riding above the water with grand views of the Southern Ocean. The highway is definitely carved into the hillsides along this section of coast. We got into a rhythm as we ducked and rolled in and out of each cove. Each corner held a new view for us and each one was a nice surprise. We didn’t know what stretched out before us; we only knew that there would be more surprises if we kept pedaling.
Being the philosophical person that I am, I analyzed this during the ride. I realized that this kind of uncertainty is fun. So many of the uncertainties that we encounter each day are not exciting; finding a place to sleep, buying food, etc. Don’t get me wrong, we’ve enjoyed all aspects of our life on the road, but a day like today has a powerful affect. It definitely recharged our souls and gave confirmation to the reasons why we went on this trip.
Looking forward to more surprises,
LK

Day 124: Lavers Hill to Apollo Bay

Time: 3:00
Distance: 48 km
Avg Speed: 16 kph
Terrain: Up and Down
Location: 38 44 28.4 S, 143 40 31.6 E

We left Lavers Hill early this morning. We camped at the local ground behind the local pub/gas station/take away/bistro. We ate dinner at the bistro and it was really quite good. I had my first taste of kangaroo and it wasn’t bad at all. It was a fillet so it was pretty tender, and hardly gamey at all. I am not sure if it was farm raised or wild. Our neighbors in the campground spent their long dinner hour (actually hours) in the pub. They showed back up at their tents at 11:30 last night and played music and partied until our alarm went off at 5:30 this morning. Earplugs work wonders. We tried to be noisy, but how noisy can you be taking down a tent and riding your bikes?
To add insult to injury my cycle computer wasn’t working this morning. I am amazed at how hooked I am to that thing. I just love watching the numbers go by. We arrived in Apollo Bay early this afternoon and took the opportunity to do some laundry and take some much needed showers. We also shared the biggest, sweetest and juiciest mango either of us had ever seen. I know it is kind of a side note, but it was good. Apollo Bay is a little seaside village along the Great Ocean Road. It was hopping with tourists today since it is a holiday weekend. They had cleared town by late afternoon and we had the beach and town to ourselves. The ocean is beautiful here with waves crashing on fine sand beaches stretching into the distance either way. We are off tomorrow; hopefully after a good nights sleep.
CK

Lord of the Flies

Day 123
Port Campbell to Lavers Hill
Time: 3:37:58
Distance: 49.54 k
Avg Speed: 13.6 kph
Terrain: Rolling with one big 19k climb
Location: 38˚ 41’ 4.9” S, 143˚ 23’ 3.9” E

When you travel for long amounts of time, you get to know yourself pretty well. Chris has learned that he’s not a big fan of bugs. His insect stories began during a late night meeting in Fiji with a cockroach and continued in Costa Rica with giant caterpillars. More recently he’s been in near nervous breakdown mode with the flies in Australia. Today he packed his bug head net toward the top of a pannier just in case. It didn’t take but fifteen minutes of riding and he was sporting a whole new look. Function trumped fashion in my case and I donned mine as well. We both looked like a cross between bee keepers and aliens. The nets we actually ok to ride with. The hoop keeps the netting out of your face and it’s possible to drink water without too much trouble. The only problem I found was a little wind drag while descending hills.
Let’s get to the important stuff…
We started out a little earlier today to stop at a few viewpoints along the Great Ocean Rd. The first stop was Loch Ard Gorge which was the site of an 1878 shipwreck in which only two people survived. We had a chance to hike down to the beach where the two survivors washed ashore. It was breathtaking to witness the energy of the ocean driving through the narrow opening of the sheer limestone cliffs.
The next stop was the infamous Twelve Apostles. A century ago they had been named the Sow and Piglets but someone decided that a name like that wasn’t appropriate. I guess they needed to dress it up a bit. Anyway, the Apostles are limestone sea stacks that have been weathered over time by wind and water. The unique geologic formations stood like sentinels just off the coast and demanded our attention. It would have been easy to waste several hours just gazing down the shoreline.
Unfortunately, we had to move on because a large climb loomed in the distance. We said farewell to the dry plateau and limestone cliffs and starting climbing through the dense eucalyptus forests of the Otway Range. We were thankful for a cooler cloudy day since it was granny gear for most of the ascent. We reached Lavers Hill by mid afternoon and will be looking forward to a nice pub meal this evening.
Here’s to keeping the flies at bay,
LK

Day 122: Warrnambool to Port Campbell

Time: 4:08
Distance: 68.32 km
Avg Speed: 16.4 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 38 37 10.5 S, 142 59 48.2 E

We had an odd morning this morning since I forgot to run to the grocery store last night for some breakfast this morning. We had coffee and split a cup of muesli before we left for some more food for the road. It is Australian Day here today. It is the equivalent of the 4th of July in the states without the fireworks. We considered ourselves lucky at the time to find a grocer open and then a café as well. We rolled out of town by 9:00 and began our journey east. We took back roads for the first hour of the day through some pretty farm land and into a small town for a bathroom break. From there we jumped on the Great Ocean Road and promptly met up with an Australian cycle tourist from Adelaide. He is taking a year off as well, but will be working his way around Victoria and New South Wales as a volunteer. He is working with a group called WWOOF, which is Worldwide Opportunities On Organic Farms. They put him up with room and board and he provides 5 hours or so of labor per day in exchange. We have seen a lot of this group on our travels. It is kind of a neat way to see the countryside and make a positive impact as well. We left our new Aussie friend and took some back roads towards Childers Cove. About 20 minutes down the road we saw our first live snake. We had read about tiger snakes in the Grampians Visitor Center and were warned that they were poisonous. I saw it first and swerved and Leslie gave it a wide berth after me. It was about a meter long and by the time we had grabbed our camera to take a picture it was upon us! The snake had made a b-line towards Leslie’s back tire and began striking it. I thought for sure we were done for but right at that point…GOTCHA! It actually slithered off before we could even snap a photo. We did ride the rest of the back roads right down the middle though. By the time we made it to the beach we were in full force Aussie saluting. An Aussie salute is a wave that you make to get the flies out of your face. Everyone does it, all the way from the news reporters in the field to the tennis players at the open. The fact that there is a name for it means that it is commonplace. The beach scenery was spectacular today and the riding went by quick. We are hoping for some better light tomorrow as we head off to some famous landmarks along our route.
Happy Australia Day!!
CK

The Shipwreck Coast

Day: 121
Portland to Warrnambool
Time: 6:14:00
Distance: 99.11 k
Avg Speed: 15.8 kph
Terrain: Flat
Location: 38˚ 23’ 40.3” S, 142˚ 29’ 18.2” E

It’s too bad we had to get up early today – we really liked our sweet pad in Portland. The road was calling and we needed to pound out 100 k to Warrnambool. We are on a bit more of a schedule than New Zealand and wanted to set ourselves up to be riding the Great Ocean Rd starting tomorrow. The weather report called for more winds from the east and south and we were prepared for a long day. Fortunately, the wind was more like a breeze until we got just outside our destination.
The Great Ocean Rd has been a goal for us since we decided to include Australia in our travels. It’s touted as one of the prettiest coastlines in the world and is on every suggested itinerary in our Cycling Australia book. For just about 300 kilometers we should be treated to some awesome scenery. Beginning as a track when the telegraph line between Victoria and Tasmania was built in 1859, the road itself was constructed between 1918 and 1932. Without much funding, the project succeeded with returning WWI servicemen and Depression era workers.
The coastline is also known for many shipwrecks during the 1800s. Over 160 ships have wrecked in the area from Port Fairy to Apollo Bay (west to east). Ships traveling to or from the east coast of Australia had to navigate Bass Straight and the going was treacherous to say the least. Today there are a few automated lighthouses and some very large wind machines to guide the way.
Tonight we’re back in the tent. We miss our friends in Portland, but are grateful for the time they shared with us.
See you,
LK

Tour de Portland

Day 120
Portland rest day 2

Our gracious hosts took us out to show us the sights today. We started the day with a little hike to a local gannet colony, followed by a trip out to see a lighthouse and ending with a look at some blow holes on an old volcanic flow.
The hike to the gannet colony was through the greenery and native scrub next to the giant aluminum smelter on the outskirts of town. There is a natural buffer between the plant and the ocean which contains a nice path leading to a gannet colony. In years past the colony resided on a small outcropping of rocks off of shore. Being the prolific breeders they are, they bumped some unlucky ones to the mainland where they are more exposed to predatory dangers. The park service has the point fenced off to offer a little protection.
We then went on over to the Cape Nelson Lighthouse. Since Leslie and I are land lovers we rarely get to see old lighthouses. This one was a beautifully maintained white and red number perched on the limestone cliffs. All in all pretty cool.
Our tour then took us over to Cape Bridgewater where we looked at some blowholes where an old lava flow had met the sea. The sea wasn’t quite rough enough to get them really going, but it provided a great soundtrack. We then grabbed some coffees at the local café and shot on back to Portland.
We ended the evening with a great, meat-a-rific Aussie barbeque. The green salad and potato salad were nice compliments to the pile of chicken and beef. We ended the meal with some left over pavlova from the our first night in town. I was jazzed because our hostess entrusted me with her recipe. It is a baked meringue base with whipped cream and fruit on top. My description doesn’t do it justice. You will have to take my word on it. YUMMY!!
CK

The Old Bond Store

Day 119
Portland Rest Day 1

We’ve done the usual tasks today while catching up from the last week of riding. Lucky for us we have a very comfortable place to stay while we rest. Somehow, we keep finding our way to interesting and historic buildings on this trip. Our current accommodation is no different and we are at home in our apartment of classic bluestone architecture and stylish contemporary design. Sit back, relax, and let me describe the fascinating history of this structure.
The entire building was originally the “Bond Store” where tobacco, flour and other supplies were stored in the mid 1800s. Back in the day, supplies were delivered by ship to the Portland Bay settlement and transferred to the store. Citizens were then required to pay taxes on their goods before they could receive them. Essentially, the bond store was the middle man.
In 1908 the store was sold and became the home of the Portland Observer. Our host’s great-grandfather was the first editor of the newspaper and the business, which also added commercial printing and stationery, was handed down through several generations. In 1980 the printing operation moved a few blocks down the street and the building transformed again, this time into a restaurant.
In 2006 the most recent incarnation came about – holiday apartments. The design mixes old and new in seamless fashion. The bluestone walls and wooden beams are the historic foundation of the living space. The modern additions have the bedroom sitting above the kitchen in a loft and the rest of the living space open to the ceiling. Custom ironwork in the staircase and loft railings ties everything together. It’s been such a pleasure to be some of the first guests to enjoy the finished product of beautiful and handcrafted workmanship. We’re looking forward to more adventures in unique accommodation.
Take ‘er easy,
LK

Day 118: Lower Glenelg National Park to Portland

Time: 4:03
Distance: 60.5 km
Avg Speed: 14.6 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 38˚ 21’ S, 141˚ 36’ E

Life is a beautiful thing. We woke this morning to the call (more like a cackle) of the kookaburra and ate breakfast watching a kangaroo and her joey. On our way down to the main highway we caught glimpses of emu and an echidna (a sort of large hedgehog/porcupine). The ride itself was into a head wind (naturally blowing opposite of the usual trade wind) and along it we encountered several hills and big rigs full of sheep and wood chips. Evidently the Japanese have quite the wood chip and paper pulp trade here. The dock in Portland has a couple of giant piles of wood chips that get loaded onto a barge and taken to a plant in Japan. There the wood chips are pulped and made into paper before it is exported around the world. Quite the little cycle.
One of the main reasons we came to Portland was to visit the couple we met in New Zealand. When we met them earlier in the trip Leslie and I both thought that we had met a really special and unique couple. I am reading a book right now called Timequake, by Kurt Vonnegut. It is essentially a bizarre memoir about his life and people that have helped him along the way. He calls them saints. After our reunion over dinner and the generosity they have shown, I can think of no better description. They put us up, fed us and helped us feel welcome and at home. My vocabulary can’t do justice to feelings we have bouncing around right now. I won’t even attempt it.
I think that we are both feeling travel weariness right now. This little respite and visit has already done wonders for our psyches and our legs.
Until later.
CK

From One Extreme to Another

Day 117
Dartmoor to Lower Glenelg NP
Time: 1:54:00
Distance: 27.41 k
Avg Speed: 14.2 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 38˚ 03’ 29.7” S, 141˚ 13’ 5.1” E

In just ten days we’ve gone from one extreme to the other. Tonight we’re in the lush, green setting of Lower Glenelg National Park in the far west of Victoria. It’s a totally different landscape than the city streets of Melbourne where we started our Australian journey. The temperature has also changed quite a bit as well. We arrived to find scorching 100+ degree temperatures ten days ago. Tonight we’ve crawled in our sleeping bags early because the mercury has dropped into the low 60s. Go figure.
Our ride today we pretty mellow again. We rolled through more blocks of trees and endless pastureland. A stone church caught my eye along the way – it had a pink door and I thought it might make a nice picture. As we walked around, we found the war memorial for the area. Using natural features, the tribute to fallen heroes was done with rows of trees rather than with stone monuments. Regardless of the style, I’ve been really impressed with the acknowledgment of veterans in almost every town we’ve passed through.
We arrived at camp just in time for a bite to eat. It was hot lunch today as we pulled out instant noodles from Chris’ front pannier. It’s amazing how good a cup-a-soup can taste when it’s the only choice on the menu. We’re looking forward to getting to the next big town to add a little variety to our meals again.
Tomorrow we head to the coast and the town of Portland. We’ll be visiting a very nice couple that we met early in our trip to New Zealand (see post – “And the Horse Won by Three Lengths”). We’re looking forward to catching up on the last three months and to see Australia from a local’s point of view.
Sweet dreams,
LK

Meatloaf Sandwich and a Two Car Garage

Day: 116
Hamilton to Dartmoor
Time: 5:08
Distance: 80.57 km
Avg Speed: 15.6 kph
Terrain: rolling
Location: 37 55' 39.7" S, 141 17' 01.5" E


I am making up for no blog yesterday. It was a rainy rest day which entailed haircuts, gelato, and lots of tennis on the TV. We opted for a little R and R while the rains fell.
We took off this morning for Dartmoor. We got a reasonable early start and headed out of Hamilton under a fine mist and clouds. The weather stayed with us the whole way today, but it was still better than riding in hot, hot temps.
I saw my first kangaroo from the bike today. It just kind of lollygagged across the road, fed a little, saw me and then lollygagged into the bush. The novelty still hasn’t worn off.
The area we rode through was one eucalyptus plantation after another. Each big field had a sign saying how many hectares it was and what year it was planted. It was cool to see these 200-300 hectare plantations with trees planted like rows of corn.
We decided to grab a bite to eat at the Lazy Bones Café in Dartmoor when we rolled into town. Dartmoor is a really small town so it wasn’t surprising that the café was in our hostess’ front rooms. We got a couple of Cokes to drink and ordered up a meatloaf slab sandwich. It was awesome. It was gut bomb as well, but it was awesome. Nothing like a hunk of meatloaf on a toasted focacia with fries and a salad. Our hostess/cook/proprietor also gave the low down on the camping in town. She pointed us down the road to the Dartmoor Tourist Camping Domain. It is a spacious grass field with eucalyptus trees just out side of town. It is also free. I almost ordered a chocolate shake when she told us that, but decided against it. We got cookies instead.
We got to our little campsite and got the tent set up before it started to mist and rain again. We didn’t have a covered area for our bikes so we decided to wedge them under the vestibule of our tent. It is great to have a tent big enough to sleep, eat, cook, hang out and store bikes in.
Hope all is well in your neck of the woods
CK

Australia and Geography

Day 114
Dunkeld to Hamilton
Time: 2:19:33
Distance: 37.8
Avg Speed: 16.2
Terrain: Flat
Location: 37 44' 43.3" S, 142 02' 00.3" E


We had a short uneventful day to Hamilton. We were pretty tired after yesterday and needed an afternoon to catch up on a few things. Instead of boring you with the details of our day, I thought I’d share some geography about Australia. And no, that’s not just as boring.

Let's start with a map:

Here are a few quick highlights about Australia:
-Located between latitudes 10˚ 41’ S (Cape York, Queensland) and 43˚ 38’ S (Southeast Cape, Tasmania) and between longitudes 113˚ 09’ E (Steep Point, Western Australia) and 153˚ 38’ E (Cape Byron, New South Wales)
-sixth largest country in the world (about the size of the United States)
-the only country to occupy an entire continent
-flattest and 2nd driest of the continents (Antarctica is the driest)
-the highest peak is Mt Kosciuszko at 2228 m
-the population (20+ million) lives mostly along the southeastern corner and eastern coast of the country
-Aboriginal people have lived on the continent for probably over 50,000 years
-700 bird species are native to Australia
-claimed by the British Crown in the late 1700s by (none other than) Captain James Cook

For heaps more information about Australia, see http://www.about-australia.com/facts/, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australia, http://geography.about.com/library/weekly/aa050397.htm

Have Fun,
LK

Day 113: Halls Gap to Dunkheld

Time: 5:20
Distance: 75.5 km
Avg Speed: 14.1 kph
Terrain: Rolling
Location: 37˚ 39’ 3.3” S, 142˚ 20’ 46.1” E

We started out of Halls Gap early this morning. Early being 9:00, but you should expect that by now. We were awoken by kookaburras in the trees and kangaroos running (or hopping) outside the tent. Last night we ran into town for some ice cream and that is when I saw what I thought was a giant rabbit. It took for Leslie to say something like ‘whoa’, before I realized that they weren’t rabbits at all but kangaroos. It was pretty cool to see them. We saw a lot more as the evening wore on.
The riding through Grampians National Park was pretty nice today. There was cool breeze in our faces that kept us from overheating and more importantly kept the flies at bay. The flies don’t bite (yet) but are really annoying. They like to flit around your face and crawl on your sunglass lenses. We had a longer climb today that took us on the leeward side of a hill where the wind was calm. The flies took the chance to introduce themselves to me. I like to give them voices so I can have a conversation with them. It makes the time go by faster. I made a deal with them that I wouldn’t shoo them if they stayed out of my eyes. We made it to the top with out incident and then the deal was off so I shooed them away, and away, and away. It took a ride downhill to escape them.
We got into Dunkeld without incident and decided to grab a bite to eat at the little take-away/pizzeria in town. We had inspected the general store and thought that we could eat better and cheaper on a pizza. I nominate pizza and Coke as the recovery food of choice from here forward. Our campsite is in the town domain and is run by the town. We are camped next to the ultimate outback rig. A Ford F-250 with a snorkel and custom tool topper pulling a 25’ trailer with a lift and diamond plate fenders. They do take their outback seriously here.
All for now.
CK

Bird Bonanza

Day 112
Melbourne to Ararat by train; Ararat to Halls Gap by bicycle
Time: 3:31:00
Distance: 55 km
Avg Speed: 15.6 kph
Terrain: Flat
Location: 37˚ 7’ 48.4” S, 142˚ 31’ 26.9” E

We took part in the morning commute as we rode across Melbourne to catch a train out of the city. We’ve come to know our way around in the few days that we have stayed in the city. No one paid any particular attention to us – it was great.
Our tickets were booked to Ballarat but we found out that the train went all the way to Ararat from Melbourne. We did an add-on to our ticket and relaxed for another hour. Our goal is to spend some time around Grampians National Park so we don’t mind skipping a few kilometers on the busy highways. Upon arrival at our destination, we hit the information center and a nice lady gave us the lowdown on cycling through the Grampians. A cyclist herself, she was very helpful and kind enough to share her favorite routes around the area.
Soon after we rolled out of Ararat Chris declared “we are officially in Australia”. Apparently, the last six days didn’t count. I think he was referring to our first day touring in Oz. It was a really nice feeling to be on the bikes again. The landscape is totally different than New Zealand and I rode in awe most of the afternoon.
In addition to new scenery, there are new birds to look at. Giant white ones, medium sized pink ones and small green ones. The big white birds are some sort of parrot and like to hang out in the trees along the road. Several times during our ride, large groups of the birds would suddenly take flight in front of us, squawking loudly. It was quite exciting and you can bet we will be on the lookout for some info about the birdlife here.
We’re back in the tent tonight. It’s been about two weeks and I can’t say that we were really excited to get back to it. However, we won’t have that much longer to camp and we joked that we’ll be wishing for the tent after months of guesthouses in SE Asia. Only time will tell.
See ya,
LK

Day 110 Melbourne

Time: All Day
Distance: Down the Street
Terrain: Hard Court
Location: Vodafone Arena

Today was our big day. We went to our first major tennis tournament. I learned a lot today. I learned that I enjoy watching the show during the match, just as much as I enjoy watching the match.
Our first match was a Russian Glamazon facing off against a little unseeded gal who didn’t stand a chance. 3 hours and ten minutes later the match ended 2-6, 6-2, 12-10. It was the second longest women’s match in Australian Open history. At times it was like watching a drama queen ice dancer do an interpretive dance of a tennis match. I am not being mean when I say that either; there was flopping, flaunting and fashion. It was interesting and cool to see but towards the end we were just hoping for a victor. The following match was American Andy Roddick against a poor Czech guy. 3 sets later it was over. I also discovered that men’s tennis is more blunt force trauma whereas women’s is more finesse.
I think both of our highlight was watching Lindsey Davenport play her first major since giving birth to her little boy. She went three sets in her match, but walked away the victor. It was a really cool day and surprisingly tiring.
Before the tennis today we stopped by ‘The G’ to catch an hour of cricket. The juniors were playing today so it was free to get in. We killed two birds with one stone; we didn’t have to pay to take a tour of the grounds and we were able to watch a little cricket. The sport is pretty fun to watch since there is quite a bit of action, but the games are sooooo long (measured in days…not hours).
Leslie also got her bike serviced and back from a bike shop near where we are staying. It was really set up to service bike commuters with a solid stock of panniers, racks, locks and trailers. They fixed Leslie’s bike and since it was a loose cable (shame on me for not checking the previous mechanic’s work) they didn’t charge a thing. If you are ever in Melbourne and need some work done at very cool bike shop check out Abbotsford Cycles and Bicycle Repair. It was really a cool old school bike shop.
We couldn’t get enough of the tennis action today so we are watching night matches on the television.
The last thing I learned today was; if you are going to be a ball boy, wear sensible underwear. No one wants to see you doing some recovery work during a match.
CK

Queen Victoria Market

Day 109
Richmond to the City and Back
Time: Most of the morning
Avg Speed: Stopping and Looking
Terrain: Meats and Veggies

“Oh look, they have homemade ravioli…” Just then, Chris almost took me out as he turned quickly to see what I was looking at. Ten minutes later Chris had purchased our Italian dinner: gnocchi and pesto with olives and bacon. For those of you who don’t know us very well, we are obsessed with food…

We spent the morning at another lively place in Melbourne, the Queen Victoria Market. Since 1878 the market has played host to food, goods and entertainment. With a combination of indoor food stalls and open air produce bins, this city institution is frequented by locals and tourists alike. Throw in a food court and a camel ride and you have a heck of a place to amuse yourself for hours. Not surprisingly we spent most of our time at Queen Victoria examining all of the food. We started in the Dairy and Produce building where Chris wasted no time. Once again, we found the prices low and the quality high. Following the fresh meats, we braced ourselves to run the gauntlet of market-goers in the produce section. Housed in a giant shed with a very high ceiling, it was basically a busy farmer’s market with mounds of the brightly colored fruits and vegetables. Tomatoes, papayas, bok choy, mangoes, squash, chives: you name it, it was there. At first glance, it looked like total madness, but as you worked your way through, you realized it was just organized chaos. Southeast Asia will be full of markets and I’m sure this one is tame in comparison. I guess this is just practice for the big time.
Bon appetite,
LK

Day 109 Melbourne (Little Vietnam)

Time: A Couple of Hours
Distance: Several Blocks
Avg Speed: Strolling
Terrain: City

We headed out and stayed near home today. One of our hosts, Christine, had told us that there was a little Asian area near here. We decided to grab lunch over there and see what it was all about. It was the real deal. The Chinatown district that we visited yesterday was pretty neat, but typical downtown type of stuff. The Vietnam area that we visited today had its share of restaurants that served traditional dishes. The real cool part was that different shops and markets that lined that streets. There were the fishmongers, the butchers, the bakers (yummy), and the grocers. We picked up a few veggies and some bread on our tour and just marveled at all the different fruits and veggies. They even had duck and quail eggs for sale by the dozen. We joked that we were going to be all noodled out before we even got to Asia if we kept this up. We shall see.
We headed back to the abode where Leslie grabbed a cat nap and I decided to work on the bikes. My cycle computer wasn’t working and I couldn’t figure it out. It turned out I need a new battery. Easy enough. Leslie, on the other hand, was and is still having trouble with her front derailleur. We had thought we had gotten it fixed in Blenheim in NZ, but evidently not. It is now worse that ever. I think we got over charged and had the old 30/30 guarantee as we walked out the door (30 feet or 30 seconds, which ever comes first). We were a little peeved about the shop when we were in Blenheim due to the horrid customer service and suspect work. Now we are really peeved. The only recourse we have is this…THE SPOKESMAN BICYCLE SHOP IN BLENHEIM, NEW ZEALAND IS CRAP!! There I feel much better. It is interesting to note that every bike shop we went into in New Zealand gave us the run around about parts or schedules. I am not sure if they were really that busy, or really that rude. I find it interesting that in a country where tourism is your #1 bread and butter they make it difficult for you to spend your money. On a positive note, I was able to call a couple of bike shops around here who were more than happy to get us in first thing on Monday (they were closed over the weekend) and get us taken care of right there. Another notch for the Aussies.
CK

On Foot in the City

Day 108
Melbourne City
Time: Hours
Distance:
Avg Speed: Walking
Terrain: Urban Jungle
Location: 37.8° S, 145.0° E

Today we explored the heart of Melbourne. Our backpacker lodge is well situated to access all of the sporting grounds and the central business district. After deciding to leave the bikes behind, we set out on foot to see what we could find.
Our first stop was the Melbourne Cricket Ground. “The G” as it is affectionately known, is a major attraction. In fact, the guide book we borrowed describes the building in this way: “the landmark is to Melbourne what the Opera House is to Sydney, the Eiffel Tower is to Paris and the Statue of Liberty is to New York.” Cool. The MCG was originally built in 1838 and refurbished in 1956 for the Olympic Games. We walked the entire perimeter to take in the bronze statues that commemorate some of Victoria’s best athletes.
From “The G” was crossed over the rail lines to the tennis center. There was definitely a lot of activity going on in preparation for the Australian Open. We’re pretty psyched to take in a few matches on Monday. One of our dreams (yes, there will be more big fat hairy goals after this trip) is to see as many major sporting events around the world as we can. Ironically, the goal came about from a discussion regarding how cool it would be to see all of the tennis majors. It snowballed from there…
By lunchtime we had found Chinatown and sought out some cheap eats. We found a great hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurant and ventured in for a couple of lunch specials. After dinner last night and lunch today, I’m hoping that we can continue eating out a bit more than usual. We have many more choices here than in rural New Zealand.
The after lunch activity was one of Chris’ favorites; finding the map store. He’s begun to develop his own counter-strategy to this and found some outdoor stores to peruse while I happily (and tediously) examined maps and guidebooks. Once a map geek, always a map geek.
We ended our tour with a ride on the City Centre cable car. We got on the car going in the wrong direction. Lucky for us it went in a loop and had a pre-recorded dissertation of the city’s sights and landmarks.
We can see why Melbourne has often topped the list of the world’s most liveable cities. We’re looking forward to spending a few more days here.

On a sad note, we read that Sir Edmund Hillary died this morning in New Zealand. Here is a good article that outlines a great life lived. He was an ordinary man who did extraordinary things. You can bet we’ll be raising a glass in his honor tonight.
Cheers,
LK

Day 107: Christchurch NZ to Melbourne AU

Time: Going on 38 hours
Distance: Across the Ditch
Avg Speed: Plane: Unknown, Bike: 15 kph
Terrain: All over

We flew from NZ to Australia today. Our trip actually started yesterday around noon. We opted to not pay for another night at the backpacker in Christchurch and spent the night in the airport. There wasn’t much sleep to be achieved on the carpeted concrete slab they call the ‘Arrival Terminal’. I think I was a little on edge since I only got 2 hours of sleep before we had to roll out of our little beds and get ready to fly.
The flight went smoothly as well as the customs on the Australia side.
When we got out of customs in Melbourne, Leslie tracked down some maps of the city while I got the bikes put back together for our venture across town. We were a little worried about the heat when we started but just put our heads down and rode. I couldn’t quite get my computer working right on my bike, but I think we rode around 35 k across town. The great thing was most of it was on bike paths through green space. We finally made it to our backpacker lodging in a couple of hours. They were certainly surprised to find out that we had ridden our bikes in from the airport. I think they were surprised about the distance we rode, I think we were surprised when we found out that we had ridden across town in 41˚C (100˚+F). We were glad to find out that these aren’t typical temperatures and in fact it is cooling tomorrow evening.
We did stop at the Rod Laver Tennis Center to buy some tickets for the Australian Open Tennis Tournament for Monday. We will let you know how that goes. Evidently they have had problems with unruly fans at the Open in the past. I can’t believe that any nation under The Crown would be unruly at a sporting event.
CK

Podcasts…Finally

In the beginning we had hoped to have podcasts available on our blog site. We finally have some to share. Every month Chris and I have been taking turns interviewing each other. It’s been great entertainment and we’d like to share a few snippets from the past three months. Have fun!

Go to our website to listen: http://bicyclegeography.googlepages.com/home. You can click the link and it should play automatically or you can right-click and save the file to your computer.

Day 30 – Chris describes his impressions of New Zealand

Day 60 – Leslie talks about what she thought would be difficult (before starting the trip) and what really is tricky on the road

Day 90 – Chris explores his thoughts about bicycle travel

Let us know what you think or if you can even download and listen to these files. Maybe we’ll do some more…

Also, we've made some other updates to the website. Take a tour if you haven't looked at it in awhile. http://www.bicyclegeography.org/

LK